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Wing to Fuselage wiring

mciaglia

Well Known Member
As I am completing the wings and the associated wiring (heated pitot, auto-pilot, trim, ziptip lights) I have a question.

Do most people leave a long tail of wire at the wing root so it can be finished when the wings get attached?

or

Do people terminate them with a CPC connector or like which allows the fuselage wiring to be completed and then simply make the connection?

I know minimizing the amount of potential failure points ie. connectors is a best practice, but it seems easier to have a single connector.
 
Personally I use a terminal block inside the fuselage. This way if you need to remove the wings (rare occurrence), you can simply remove the individual wires.
 
Wings to Fuselage wiring

I used a small quick disconnect cannon plug that connects from wing to Fus. Also all my egt, oil temp, cht, fuel flow and other sensor data goes into a cannon plug connect to the top center of the firewall. Greatly improves wire management. Makes for easy documentation of pin outs for the files.

Ron
 
I have been researching this trying to figure out what I am going to do here also. I am now leaning toward the terminal block, as I see it, it will also serve as a good way to split the wires for the left and right wing and even some wires going to the tail lighting. Still not 100% decided though.
 
I was going to use some type of connector but in the end opted not to. Figured if I was having to remove my wings, cutting wires would be the least of my worries. I left a long pigtail that I typically splice with D-sub sockets and pins covered with shrink tube in lieu of using a d-sub housing.
 
I am putting a service loop between the wing and fuselage and the wires will be crimped with water proof butt connectors. I figured that I would not be removing the wings on any frequency. Would have been best to run all of the wires direct, but I had to remove the wings due to shop constraints.

I ordered these heat shrink but connectors.

https://www.amazon.com/Wirefy-Heat-Shrink-Butt-Connectors/dp/B01DOTB0XE/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1531147038&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=heat+shrink+butt+connectors&psc=1
 
I mounted a D-sub 9 to the fuse for the roll servo control wiring.

Strobe wiring had Molex connectors already installed.

All other lines were done with knife splice connectors, below.

32446.jpg
 
Defer wiring until final wing install (other than conduits in the wing and fusleage). No connectors or terminal blocks - just run the wires. If you ever need to take the wing off, pull them into the fusleage. For things like a D connector for something like trim or autopilot, cut it off. Just leave enough slack to put on a new connector. For wingtip antennas, disconnect and pull the coax into the fuselage.

Never a fan of terminal blocks. Too many bare connections and they tend to be clunky. If you really must do a connector have the connector on the fuselage side - easier to protect it from the elements.

Carl
 
Thanks for all suggestions. I think I will plan for a connector in the fuselage to better protect from the elements.
 
I did a CPC for each wing. I wanted to have the wings wired and complete without putting them on to save hangar time and keep the fuse at home.
 
If you are set on connectors I woukd encourage using Deutsch weatherproof DTM or DT connectors. They are awesome and sealed from the environment. More so than the round plastic type. Similar to automotive Weatherpack or connectors just higher quality and full barrel pins for reliability and ease of crimping and installation.
 
If you are set on connectors I woukd encourage using Deutsch weatherproof DTM or DT connectors. They are awesome and sealed from the environment. More so than the round plastic type. Similar to automotive Weatherpack or connectors just higher quality and full barrel pins for reliability and ease of crimping and installation.

These are my preference too but I just can?t seem to get past the large cost of the crimper.
 
I left the wiring coiled up in the fuselage until I attached the wings. You can easily pull the wires out to the wing tips and connect them up after the wings are on for good. I just left a service loop in the fuselage and IF the wings ever need to be removed, I will cut the wires then, or just pull them back into the fuselage. Connectors add failure points and should be used only when absolutely necessary.
 
Mark,

I have run the lighting wires (nav, strobe, landing, & taxi) from the panel switches to a terminal strip mounted on the rear seat front bulkhead. From there the wires split and run to the tail and out to both wings. This provides for the amperage required by the lights, and with ring terminals makes for a tight connection. The terminal strip will be covered by the flap actuator/torque tube cover.

I have pulled the heavy gauge wires that will power the pitot heater from the panel back to the left wing area and coiled them, and will pull them to the pitot tube after the wings are attached using a pull string installed in the wing.

The wires for the auto pilot servo and trim servo will be connected through a small D-sub connector. However, the CAN Bus wires will be run continuously from the pitch or yaw AP servo out to the wings where it will connect to the magnetometer and then on to the roll servo, without an extra connector at the wing root. If you want to run the CAN bus wire through an extra connector, I suggest you talk to Garmin regarding the type of connector and advisability of making such a connection.

Cheers,
 
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