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  #21  
Old 08-08-2013, 09:18 PM
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propsync propsync is offline
 
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Hi group,

So I'm ready to move on to riveting the nutplates to the flanges. I'll be using the pnuematic squeezer.

Do you have any tips on adjusting the squeezer? Or do I just have to do a few rivets to get the right setting?

If I squeeze a rivet and its not enough, can I re-squeeze it or must it come out?

I tried a few test rivets in some scrap aluminum, but I don't have anything the exact thickness of the spar flange.

I do have the measuring tool.

Thanks.
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  #22  
Old 08-08-2013, 11:23 PM
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bruceh bruceh is offline
 
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If you don't have the adjustable set for the squeezer, get it. They are really expensive for what you get, but it is worth every dollar.

Here's how to adjust it. Get the right yoke on for the job - I have the longeron, 3" w/ hole and a 4" no hole. Each gets used in the build.
Get the right rivet sets for the type of rivet on the right side so you can access the rivets with the squeezer. Sometimes you need to switch sides to make it work.
Pull the trigger (away from the pieces you are trying to rivet) and set the initial gap to just slightly over the thickness of the pieces you are trying to rivet. Back it off a turn and set the first rivet. Use the gauge and adjust up as needed. You can always squeeze it further (within a reasonable number) to get it adjusted to spec. Repeat on the rest of the rivets.
It gets easy to judge after a while. If you over squeeze it, drill it out, back off the depth and try it again.
I have noticed that after a long series, you might have to dial it back in as the adjustable set can rotate and back off from the original position.
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  #23  
Old 08-09-2013, 05:12 PM
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propsync propsync is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceh View Post
If you don't have the adjustable set for the squeezer, get it. They are really expensive for what you get, but it is worth every dollar.

Here's how to adjust it. Get the right yoke on for the job - I have the longeron, 3" w/ hole and a 4" no hole. Each gets used in the build.
Get the right rivet sets for the type of rivet on the right side so you can access the rivets with the squeezer. Sometimes you need to switch sides to make it work.
Pull the trigger (away from the pieces you are trying to rivet) and set the initial gap to just slightly over the thickness of the pieces you are trying to rivet. Back it off a turn and set the first rivet. Use the gauge and adjust up as needed. You can always squeeze it further (within a reasonable number) to get it adjusted to spec. Repeat on the rest of the rivets.
It gets easy to judge after a while. If you over squeeze it, drill it out, back off the depth and try it again.
I have noticed that after a long series, you might have to dial it back in as the adjustable set can rotate and back off from the original position.
Thanks, yes I do have the adjustable set.
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  #24  
Old 08-09-2013, 05:18 PM
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Hi Group,

I rivet'd my first nutplate. I was wondering if you could have a look at the pictures for input.

What I didn't realize is that the squeezer action is not an all or nothing. I can slowly push the trigger and make the action slower and stop until I'm ready. As you can see in the image, I had the squeezer slide off by not going slow with it. Other than the slip off the rivet head, does the set look ok?

Thanks
Tom



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  #25  
Old 08-09-2013, 06:19 PM
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jlfernan jlfernan is offline
 
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One thing you may consider doing is taking a Sportair basic metal course. There are going to be classes in Orlado on September 14. They are very educational and will give lots of info which will greatly increase your abilities and confidence.
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  #26  
Old 08-09-2013, 06:36 PM
Ron B. Ron B. is offline
 
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On nutplates , the rivet is there only to hole the nutplate in place when no screw is installed and to stop it from rotating. There is no structural load on the rivets to be worried about in this application. Once the screw is installed the rivets could be removed and the nutplate would still do it's job. Mind you if you were to remove the rivets and then remove the screw all you would have is a falling nut (just making a point).
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  #27  
Old 08-10-2013, 09:16 AM
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ok, thank you.
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  #28  
Old 08-10-2013, 10:15 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlfernan View Post
One thing you may consider doing is taking a Sportair basic metal course. There are going to be classes in Orlado on September 14. They are very educational and will give lots of info which will greatly increase your abilities and confidence.
Good advice for any new builder that doesn't have an experienced builder near by to help them along.

The other one that I tell lots of beginners (and I think it is mentioned in Section 5)... Never, ever, do any task/process or use a new tool, that you have not done before, on your flight article parts without first practicing it on some scrap aluminum.
Sometimes it is even beneficial for beginners to do this if they haven't done a particular process for a few weeks.

Following this one piece of advice can save you hundreds (even thousands) of dollars spent on replacement parts.
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  #29  
Old 08-15-2013, 04:46 PM
Stockmanreef Stockmanreef is offline
 
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I notice that it is called out to use a slightly smaller counter sink bit to counter sink. It looks like in the plans that the counter sinking enlarges the hole because right now the screws won't fit in the holes. I take it that Longranger uses the template--to keep the bit centered. True? Or does the depth the bit slides into the hole act to center it as the plans state?
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  #30  
Old 08-16-2013, 08:11 PM
Stockmanreef Stockmanreef is offline
 
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Do people primer the rivet holes for the nutplates on the spar? After putting the nutplates in place and moving on tot he next section is says to prime the areas where the integrity of spar surface was compromised. Why not the rivet holes.

The other confusing thing is that the plans say to use a screw as guide to put in the nut plates. The screws don't fit through the holes. I assume that you just rivet the plates in place with no screws.
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