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  #11  
Old 08-05-2013, 07:46 AM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
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There were several holes in my RV14 wings that I was supposed to drill to final size, but were already at the final size also. No worries, this kit is a little more advanced! I used a #40 and #30 piloted reamer in most places that required final hole drilling instead of a drill bit. I only used a drill bit when I had to drill a virgin hole in something. The reamer makes a perfectly round hole and leaves practically no burr. Most of these burrs could be removed with my finger or a light pass with a scotch brite pad. The skins are all pretty much punched to final size, the substructure is not. Anywhere you find a burr or a rough edge, remove it or make it smooth, even if its a factory end, if for no other reason than you won't cut yourself on it.
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Last edited by Scott Hersha : 08-05-2013 at 07:50 AM.
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  #12  
Old 08-05-2013, 09:06 AM
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propsync propsync is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caapt View Post
Don't do what I did. There are some holes next to the nut plate holes that do not get drilled until you flip the J-channel. You have to look closely to see it on the plans.
I caught that on the illustration and have made it past that point already, but thanks.
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  #13  
Old 08-05-2013, 09:42 PM
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propsync propsync is offline
 
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Hi group,

I thought I would just add to this thread instead of starting a new one. Just about every step is a new experience for me

So I'm on to 11-03 step 2, the countersinking. Riveting is a few steps away yet but I wanted to know what you guys were using for riveting such tiny rivets on the flanges. I have the following available to me.

3X rivet gun which I'm guessing is way to much power.

I have a pneumatic squeezer. I think it was KC's website that mentioned the use of it, but only on the upper and not lower?? Wasn't sure why. I have the following yokes and parts available for it. 3" pneumatic yoke, adjustable set holder, thin squeezer cup set, flat sqz sets, 2.5" flange nose yoke.

Thanks.
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  #14  
Old 08-05-2013, 10:05 PM
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KCBerner KCBerner is offline
 
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I was trying various things out back then. Honestly, I've kind of settled on the hand squeezer over my pneumatic squeezer. My pneumatc squeezer was quite used off eBay and has issues so YMMV.

Your 3X gun is a fine tool for AD3 rivets (that's what I have), turn the air down to 40 psi or so...practice like crazy until you feel comfortable. I think I drove about 200 rivets on practice stock from Home Depot before I used the gun on the plane.

Use whatever you're most comfortable with. I squeeze when possible because its quicker and more consistent.
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  #15  
Old 08-06-2013, 10:21 PM
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propsync propsync is offline
 
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Hi Group,

So tonight I had an hour and thought I would start on the countersinking of the spar flanges for the nutplates.

I did a little practice on a scrap to get the depth set. I only did two hole as you will see in the picture. My fingernail just ever so slightly catches on the rivet head so I'm not sure if I should go a little deeper or not since they are not actually riveted in. I think if they were riveted they might be perfectly flush, my hand is just not holding them square. However, I did read that there should be a very small ring visible though around the rivet head. Let me know what you think. Also, although I couldn't see it with the eye, it appears the hole has "chatter" if I have the term right. The bit is new so maybe I am drilling to fast?



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  #16  
Old 08-06-2013, 10:49 PM
YellowJacket RV9 YellowJacket RV9 is offline
 
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Are you using the air drill to countersink? If so I'd recommend a slower, cordless drill, which could help with the chatter. Also, once the hole is countersunk to the right depth, if you hold the cage steady and let the cutter spin freely an extra second or so I find that cleans up the hole a bit. I aim for perfectly flush except for on the fuel tank skins where there will be proseal underneath the rivet head, as well as countersunk holes where dimples will nest on top. I go a bit deeper there. I keep the cutter oiled up every few holes also, for what it's worth.

Chris
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  #17  
Old 08-07-2013, 06:06 AM
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KCBerner KCBerner is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YellowJacket RV9 View Post
Are you using the air drill to countersink? If so I'd recommend a slower, cordless drill, which could help with the chatter. Also, once the hole is countersunk to the right depth, if you hold the cage steady and let the cutter spin freely an extra second or so I find that cleans up the hole a bit. I aim for perfectly flush except for on the fuel tank skins where there will be proseal underneath the rivet head, as well as countersunk holes where dimples will nest on top. I go a bit deeper there. I keep the cutter oiled up every few holes also, for what it's worth.

Chris
+1 for slower cordless drill

And +1 for a drop of oil every few holes.

I bet those things fix your chatter

As far as how deep. Look to see if you're countersinking for a rivet or for skin. If its for a rivet, make it flush. There will be skin sitting on top of that when assembled. If its for skin, I go about 5 clicks below flush. Make yourself a little test piece by dimpling a small piece of .032 skin. It should sit flush with no play.
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  #18  
Old 08-07-2013, 07:07 AM
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ok guys thanks.
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  #19  
Old 08-07-2013, 12:23 PM
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longranger longranger is offline
 
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When you get to the large countersinks for the screws, you'll need something to back up the pilot of the CS bit. If the material is thin enough that the countersink goes all the way through and you lose the pilot hole, chatter is practically guaranteed. I made a backup plate out of some scrap 0.125 aluminum to clamp in place under the spar flange for just this purpose:


Jig in use:


I had to locate several pilot holes around the jig to fit all spar nutplate locations.



I use an air drill with no oil and get mirror finish countersinks every time. I do have (what I consider to be) a better quality cage with ball bearings as opposed to the ones with bushings.
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  #20  
Old 08-07-2013, 04:12 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longranger View Post
When you get to the large countersinks for the screws, you'll need something to back up the pilot of the CS bit. If the material is thin enough that the countersink goes all the way through and you lose the pilot hole, chatter is practically guaranteed.
I agree... unless you follow the construction manual and first install nutplates for the cutter to pilot in. It works quite well and saves a lot of time not having to reposition an extra piloting tool.
Not using excessive speed is the key to success.

Regardless of how you do it, the speed of an air drill is a bit excessive for this diameter of a cut, especially on the hard anodizing if no lube is used.
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