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Vinyl for the instrument panel

David_Nelson

Well Known Member
Hi All,

Is there any reason one would not want to install a high performance vinyl on the instrument panel rather than paint, power coat, etc?

I've searched the archives and I see folks using it externally (decals, stripes, patterns, N-numbers, etc), but no mention using it internally.

Thanks,
 
It has been done. However, the biggest problem I see is that when you tighten the instrument screws, it tends to wrinkle the vinyl.
 
Yes, wrinkles can happen. However, you can get some really tricked out looks if you're careful. Vinyl is available in all sorts of cool patterns from camouflage to disco prismatics.

One of the more popular patterns is carbon fiber. With a little care, it looks very nice. Fairly easy to hide any aluminum edges with a quick touch up of a Sharpie marker too.
 
Check with Robin Marks. He had this done on his RV-10 panel and at first it looked fantastic. The long term result wasn't so stellar and I believe he's in the process of refinishing it.

We did a Moose panel with an extremely high performance (read high $$) Vinyl wrap earlier this year, but I forced the customer to have it applied so the responsibility with the finish is in his hands for the long term.

I guess it can and has been done, we just don't do it. The long term results from what I've seen have not impressed me much to date, but new technology and new materials are always changing so I'll keep an open mind if someone comes up with something good.

Cheers,
Stein
 
vinyl panel film

I would want any printed vinyl film to be laminated. Makes it much easier to handle and much tougher. We use 3M Controltac with their overlaminate on our digital prints. Basically the same films used to wrap cars etc. 3M specifically says do not use slip agents ( like soapy water) when applying their Controltac film once its been laminated..Basic vinyl film needs a transfer tape to aid in application as it is only 3/1000 thick. Once laminated, no transfer tape is needed and the color life of the product is extended too.

If someone wants to send me a EPS, AI or PDF file of their panel, I could print it for you on a drop next time I am running a job and you can check it out. We have a 1080 dpi digital printer.
 
Stein, you've fooled with a lot of panels....so what, in your opinion, is the ultimate panel finish process?
 
Stein's opinion sought on panel making and panel marking too

and to extend Dan's excellent, concise question to Stein:

"what, in your opinion is the best way of making modern panel cutouts (CNC water jet, CNC milling machine, drill press/file)?"

and "what, in your opinion is the ultimate panel marking process (silkscreen, water transfer labels, sharpie)?"
 
The answer is that almost all of the above will work fine for cutting the panel depending on the equipment used. It's hard to beat a good CNC Mill or industrial router for the best finished edges. Lasers work good if they are extremely high power with a very narrow beam, but both lasers and waterjets to a larger extent will leave a kerf on the cutout.

For finish, again it's pretty hard to beat a good urethane paint finished in satin (not glossy and not flat) clearcoat. Flat finished get dirty easy and after time don't hold up to looking near as good. Super shiny finishes are nice but distracting due to reflections...best is semigloss or satin type of finish. Overlays (wood, carbon fiber, etc..) also work fine, but depending on how they are done can look really good or really sloppy.

For labeling, a professional silkscreen job is near best. But, for the best value (meaning least labor for best return) decals covered with clearcoat are the best way to go. It's what the three biggest panel shops in the country use (us, Aerotronics and Avionics Systems). Professionally done overlays or placards (such as those made by Wayne at aircraftengravers) also provide an excellent result.

That's about as concise as I could make it. I could ramble on each subject for pages (and have for many of the above subjects in kitplanes articles), but just take my word on it - we've learned all of it the hard way! :)

Cheers,
Stein
 
I did mine with Dragonplate carbon fibre. This is a real carbon fiber layup with a 3M backing. It was not cheep but looks great and is bullet proof. Don
 
Thanks ...

Thanks again to Stein for his willingness to share his professional experience in this Forum on an ongoing basis. IMHO, the value of VAF is enhanced as a result.
 
All the outside second- and third-colors are vinyl on my 9A, but the panel is done in leather matching the accent color of the seats/side panels. Besides looking nice and having no glare, its sound deadening qualities lowers the interior nosie level by almost .0002 dbA!!

Oh, yes. Use nylon washers under the screws and there is no wrinkling.

Bob Kelly
 
Digging up an old thread

I'm considering Vinyl to do a color change on my panel.

I'd like to switch to the carbon look, but I know I'm going to re-do the whole thing by 2020, so I think if vinyl will look good and last me a few years that would be a good interim step.

Any current thoughts on materials, vendors, etc?

Thank you!
 
3M Dinoc

I used the 3M Dinoc carbon fiber vinyl on my RV-9A panel. Went on well and looks good after a few summer/winter cycles here in Minnesota.
 
I used a product called ThermoFoil, available in cherry and maple, and probably other wood-look finishes. After 5 years it still looks new, and has held up better than real wood would in our Colorado sun.
 
I used a product called ThermoFoil, available in cherry and maple, and probably other wood-look finishes. After 5 years it still looks new, and has held up better than real wood would in our Colorado sun.

Jim, I thought your panel was real wood!
 
I used 3m 1080 (solid Charcoal) matte finish on the instrument panel. Took about two hours to do all the panel pieces. No chance that the powdercoat or paint shop coats the wrong side or losses a piece. It has wrinkled a bit around some of the screws but this could be avoided or simply redone in a few years. Not very noticeable. I always say "paint isn't perfect either". I would do it again.

Bevan
 
I've done two panels now, my 9A, and a buddy's 8A, in vinyl. Since the panels were CNC routed (by Bill at Up North Aviation who is great, by the way) it was a reasonable next step to just have the vinyl overlay printed with all switch labels and placards in place.

The only difficult part is aligning the printed vinyl to the panel. But once it's stuck down, you're done - fully finished and ready to fly. After application, I gave it a couple spray coats of matte clear Rustoleum (tested on scrap pieces to not harm the vinyl or the printed ink). Mine's been on for over two years and flying for 1.5, and still looks great.

Call local sign vinyl suppliers in your area. The vinyl they're printing these days is meant to be out in full sun for years.
 
I wonder if the wrinkling could be avoided by using nylon washers under the panel screws. It seems like that would work, but I haven't tried it.
 
washers etc.

Nylon washers are recommended by 3M under mechanical fasteners for their traffic products ( reflective) and of course, would be a good idea here as well.
now, finding BLACK or clear nylon washers, perhaps a little harder.
if avoiding washers, I'd say use adhesion promoter around the screw and instrument holes, leave the vinyl on for at least a week to fully 'cure', and install screws when the vinyl/panel is cool to minimize stretch. Obviously, going slow and using minimal torque.
 
Here is silver carbon-fiber-look vinyl on my panel. I used round headed screws with SS washers - liked the look. Still looks great. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=639950&postcount=94


Full%2520Panel.JPG


Left%2520Side.JPG
 
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Here's mine in black 3M carbon fiber vinyl.

Hi All,

Is there any reason one would not want to install a high performance vinyl on the instrument panel rather than paint, power coat, etc?

FP16042015A0002G.jpg

I countersank many mounting screws. After applying the 3M vinyl I used a snapoff hobby razor to circumcise all holes and cutouts. It made very clean cuts and allowed tightening screws without concern for wrinkling. Screw heads were painted black. I'd do it again anytime.
 
Nylon washers are recommended by 3M under mechanical fasteners for their traffic products ( reflective) and of course, would be a good idea here as well.
now, finding BLACK or clear nylon washers, perhaps a little harder.
if avoiding washers, I'd say use adhesion promoter around the screw and instrument holes, leave the vinyl on for at least a week to fully 'cure', and install screws when the vinyl/panel is cool to minimize stretch. Obviously, going slow and using minimal torque.

I found the black nylon washers, but you have to search metric dimensions.

These are only 0.015 larger ID than a #6 screw clearance.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0126UK5S8?redirect=true&ref_=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_0

They look good with black screws and the 3M carbon look vinyl overlay.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F34X6JK?redirect=true&ref_=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_1

http://www.carbonfiberfilm.com/

ADDED

Just noticed one of the carbonfiberfilm.com examples is a RV panel... :)

http://www.carbonfiberfilm.com/blog/airplane-dash-re-finished-using-3m-di-noc-carbon-fiber-vinyl/
 
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I'm in the middle of redesigning my panel and would also like to have a carbon fiber look. Up to now, I've considered using a method called "Hydro Dipping" to give it the look and finish I'm going for. I'm curious if anyone else out there has experimented with this technique?
 
Thanks for the feedback. I think I'll go for it! I'll do before and after photos when I get going on it.

Probably a January project for me, since I'll have some downtime and the weather in Dallas will favor working on planes rather than flying them. :(
 
I'm in the middle of redesigning my panel and would also like to have a carbon fiber look. Up to now, I've considered using a method called "Hydro Dipping" to give it the look and finish I'm going for. I'm curious if anyone else out there has experimented with this technique?

Mark AKA Charliewaffles did the on his -10 components. Looked great! And better for compound curves like center units and throttle controls
 
I'm considering Vinyl to do a color change on my panel.

I'd like to switch to the carbon look, but I know I'm going to re-do the whole thing by 2020, so I think if vinyl will look good and last me a few years that would be a good interim step.

Any current thoughts on materials, vendors, etc?

Thank you!

If you'd like to switch to the Carbon Fiber look, the easiest/quickest and nicest solution is just to use Carbon sheet (actual Carbon Fiber) itself...unless you have a Aerosport (which already is a carbon panel) or other shapely panel...flat prepregged/layed up carbon sheet is readily available online from a number of sources in many different thicknesses, finishes, colors, weaves and gloss levels (from flat matte to mirror polish) with adhesive pre-applied or not...and it's not terribly difficult to work with either (though if you're going to cut it on a CNC it will eat up tooling so just be prepared fro that).

Of course you can use something like Dinoc or 3M, but I'd still recommend real carbon or hydrographics to Vinyl...

Just my 2 cents as usual.

Cheers,
Stein
 
Here's basically what I'm starting with and I want to just do color for now, and then redo structure when I decide if I'm going to throw in a D-120 and remove all the roundies, or go with Skyview and build from scratch, or whatever.

I'm not sure if I'm saving time/money with the Vinyl, or if doing it all one piece now and then perhaps again later makes more sense.

Thoughts?

 
I bought some sheets of decal (use water to apply) material that worked with my laser printer. It was pretty easy to make the labels and apply them. I shot several coats of clear coat with a flattner in it, creating a semi-gloss sheen. It really didn't take that long and is much more durable than vynal. I have no reflection issues. I used vynal for my trim stripes and find it relatively easy to damage. I think it would also give you more reflection than you want.

Larry
 
I say, don't stop with the panel. I plan to use 3M 1080 vinyl throughout. Not in very large areas , but for trim and accents. My panel will end up being mostly glass; therefore easy to resurface. I get bored with the way things look pretty quickly. Vinyl seems like a easy way to change it up on the cheap. I'm not a big fan of the carbon fiber look, just seems to have been over used since printers could make it look so realistic. I've always really liked the matte finish of the light grey , more recent, Cessna panels. Maybe even a brushed aluminum, or matte black. Not quite there yet. I used a black(ish) wood grain for my custom overhead light/air console in my -10. I put the fake leather from Spruce on the overhead tunnel I built. I like the vinyl inside. On the exterior.....jury is out.

2015-09-05%2022.02.20.jpg
 
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