Riveting trailing edges

I prosealed the trailing edges on my elevators today (RV-10) and am waiting on the "glue" to dry. Meanwhile, I'm fretting over riveting the trailing edges. My rudder was already done when I bought the kit so this is the first trailing edge riveting I'll do. Any hints/tips??? I think I've read where somebody alternated the rivets (side to side) so all the shop heads were not on the same side. On the elevators I think I'd rather the factory heads were on top but would it make a difference how the final product will look if they are alternated???

Thanks in advance,
Bill Britton
RV-10 elevators/ deburring tailcone parts

Read this thread.

If you do it correctly, you will have a hard time telling the difference between the shop and factory heads.

As far as direction... IMHO, I would think it would look better to have them point one direction (or the other), but not alternating.

Finished TE

I just finished the Rudder trailing edge on my 9A. After much trepidation, it turned out to be really easy. I let the proseal cure for a "long" time to make sure it would hold. (Actually scared to start)
I machined to extra flush sets to the proper angle and squeezed them. I trusted changing the depth on the squeezer way more than my ability to partially set with a back riveter. Then the final squeeze was made by adjusting the set again and all are the same. It came out exceptionally straight. In fact, I can't find a wave or bow in it with a straight edge laid against it.

My .02

Paul
RV-9A
91300 waiting on wings