Van's Air Force
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Tail Nav Light Routing
- Thread starter rcarson
- Start date
Here's...
.... how I did it on my -7 taildragger:
Below the lower rudder hinge bracket, then into the rudderbottom.
In the bulkhead, I first installed a black plastic bushing, then put white silicon over it.
In the rudderbottom, I've made a slot so the wire doesn't move with the rudder, thus preventing breakage. (hopefully
)
The wire is clamped to the inside of the rudderbottom, approx halfway beetween the forward end and the tail light. Then the wire is moving back and forth in the slot when I move the rudder.
I have also added some plastic to the edges of the rudderbottom to prevent chafing.
.... how I did it on my -7 taildragger:
Below the lower rudder hinge bracket, then into the rudderbottom.
In the bulkhead, I first installed a black plastic bushing, then put white silicon over it.
In the rudderbottom, I've made a slot so the wire doesn't move with the rudder, thus preventing breakage. (hopefully
)The wire is clamped to the inside of the rudderbottom, approx halfway beetween the forward end and the tail light. Then the wire is moving back and forth in the slot when I move the rudder.
I have also added some plastic to the edges of the rudderbottom to prevent chafing.
Connection
Good question above and I forgot to mention it:
When I've to remove the rudder, I first remove the rudder bottom (it is mounted with nutplates), then I simply disconnect the wires by loosening the screws in the connector just inside (fwd) of the tail light.
This connector is clamped to a small piece of wood, which is fiberglassed to the inside of the rudderbotom.
The strobe connector for the tail light is clamped to the same piece of wood.
Good question above and I forgot to mention it:
When I've to remove the rudder, I first remove the rudder bottom (it is mounted with nutplates), then I simply disconnect the wires by loosening the screws in the connector just inside (fwd) of the tail light.
This connector is clamped to a small piece of wood, which is fiberglassed to the inside of the rudderbotom.
The strobe connector for the tail light is clamped to the same piece of wood.
flion
Well Known Member
For my -6A, there's enough service loop to pull the light body forward and disconnect the molex. Then the molex will feed back through the fairing. It would go through a hole that size, though my fairing is not sealed at the top, which is where I routed my wire; I could probably get the larger connector for a tail strobe through there. I have yet to address this on the RV-10 but I expect I will take the detachable-fairing approach. Just wanted to point out some alternatives.
704CH
Well Known Member
You can see the bolts in question (at least part of the left one), its just that they are drilled below the lower hinge bracket, where if this is an RV-7 they are meant to be going through the lower hinge bracket. Not sure of significance.
Also, the rudder cables are connected different than per plans, but most likely due to the fact that the rudder stops look to be low, causing conflict with the cables?
Also, the rudder cables are connected different than per plans, but most likely due to the fact that the rudder stops look to be low, causing conflict with the cables?
Last edited:
jmjula
Well Known Member
No rubbing here
Since I used an internal rudder stop, I had two perfect bolts for containing the wires above the firberglass edge. With the addition of a glued in anchor at the bottom of the rudder fairing, there is no rubbing at all. The anchor can be reached with long pliers, so I won't have to use screws on the fairing either. I will likely make a metal anchor instead of the plastic shown for longevity.
Since I used an internal rudder stop, I had two perfect bolts for containing the wires above the firberglass edge. With the addition of a glued in anchor at the bottom of the rudder fairing, there is no rubbing at all. The anchor can be reached with long pliers, so I won't have to use screws on the fairing either. I will likely make a metal anchor instead of the plastic shown for longevity.
sglynn
Well Known Member
Holding down tail light wires in plastic tip
Nice discussion on wire routing for the tail light on the 7A. I see on the last entry you are holding down the wires in the plastic tip with a tie down. I want to make my rudder bottom tip rivetted on permanatly. And I'm thinking of putting a connector at the forward end so I can disconnect the wires when I remove the rudder.
So question: how do you hold down the wires in the plastic tip as they run aft to the light? Or do I need to? Can the wires and connector just run thru the tip without being held down?
thanks
Nice discussion on wire routing for the tail light on the 7A. I see on the last entry you are holding down the wires in the plastic tip with a tie down. I want to make my rudder bottom tip rivetted on permanatly. And I'm thinking of putting a connector at the forward end so I can disconnect the wires when I remove the rudder.
So question: how do you hold down the wires in the plastic tip as they run aft to the light? Or do I need to? Can the wires and connector just run thru the tip without being held down?
thanks
N941WR
Legacy Member
When I first built my plane I riveted the tip on but with the prop strike my tail spring was pushed into the rudder bottom and it had to be replaced.
The new rudder bottom has plate nuts, which I should have done from the start. The reason is, if you ever have to replace the tail light, you will probably want access to the rudder bottom.
Also, if you ever have to remove the rudder, say for painting, you will have to disconnect the wires stuffed in there.
I riveted the rudder bottom on, but put a Molex connector at the aft end that allows removal of the strobe/pos'n light assembly. I put heatshrink the entire lenght of the wire bundle through the rudder bottom to offer abrasion resistance in the event it want to rub around in there. At first I tried clamping the wires inside the rudder bottom, but it became clear that would be most "unhandy" in the event of rudder removal. This way, the rudder can be removed by simply extracting the wire bundle after the Molex is unplugged.
jmjula
Well Known Member
I ended up fiber glassing in an aluminum anchor that could zip tie the wires in place. I put a small hole in the fiberglass underneath it so I could cut the zip tie in the event the rudder needs to be removed. I also riveted my bottom on, it worked out pretty well.
