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  #11  
Old 08-31-2019, 08:40 PM
joe gremlin's Avatar
joe gremlin joe gremlin is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Southwest Michigan
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I think I would disconnect the cables and measure volts then wait a week and measure volts again before I looked any deeper.

I drive a company vehicle and I have a MX manager who loves a bargain so when my company truck needed a battery he went to Interstate and bought a battery off their scratch and dent rack. "Been using them for years, just as good as the full price batteries but cost half as much..."

Then I started having to put a charger on it to get it going on Monday morning after it sat all weekend. We sent it into the shop and they started disconnecting things to find the source of the drain.

The whole while I was saying not for nothing but it worked fine and the battery was the last thing we changed a few months ago...

No, no, its got to be something else, lets disconnect the trailer brake box... You've got a backup camera that wasn't original, lets disconnect that... Maybe its the radio, lets pull that out...

Yeah but it worked fine and we changed the battery a few months back and now there's a problem, can't possibly be the battery...

So I parked it and disconnected the battery cables. Waited a few days, connected the cables back up and bingo, dead battery.

Scratch and dent batteries end up on the scratch and dent rack for a reason. Sometimes scratch and dent batteries don't end up on the scratch and dent rack.

The battery was recently changed. I say charge it up then disconnect it and come back in a week and see what you get before you go looking any deeper.
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Last edited by joe gremlin : 08-31-2019 at 08:43 PM.
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  #12  
Old 08-31-2019, 11:33 PM
Piper J3's Avatar
Piper J3 Piper J3 is offline
 
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I installed a USB charger socket in place of the cigarette lighter. My mini iPad remains connected to the charger all the time. The socket itself pulls about 10mA and is a constant draw on the battery. To counter this I use an Odyssey 6 Amp Portable Charger which I leave connected to the airplane all the time in the hanger.

The Odyssey charger is not a float or trickle charger – it is designed specifically for Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) and flooded lead acid batteries. The charger maintains voltage only as needed, so when the battery is fully charged there is no current flow. The charger has an automatic cycle that disulfates the battery once/month. This cycle also happens every time the charger is reconnected after flying.

I’ve been doing this for two years and so far everything is hunky-dory.
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RV-12 E-LSA #120058 AWC July 2012 N633CM
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  #13  
Old 09-01-2019, 11:34 AM
NinerBikes NinerBikes is offline
 
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Location: Granada Hills
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaleB View Post
Also check for anything (like a USB power plug) in the 12V power socket. The socket is wired to the battery, not the master, so if you have a USB power supply plugged in it will suck current from the battery even with the master off.

I moved mine to the switched side of the master, took all of 10 minutes while we had the top cowl off.
So it would be possible to recharge through the 12v power socket, instead of having to open up the cowling every time pulling the piano hinge pins?
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  #14  
Old 09-01-2019, 11:39 AM
NinerBikes NinerBikes is offline
 
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Battery is pulled and recharged.... will take a voltage reading next week before we reinstall it and go out flying, weather and temps permitting.

Wondering if being subject to all that heat under the cowling while after a hot shut down is causing the discharge. It's a 15 Ah AGM battery under there, sitting at the top of the cowling up against the firewall.
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  #15  
Old 09-01-2019, 01:37 PM
thinkn9a thinkn9a is offline
 
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Location: Mississippi
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Default Search “battery rejuvenation” in prior posts

Prior to declaring victory, with one charge,....
Recommend you try the slow discharge, then charging at recommended voltage and amperage,..... then doing it again and again (longer each time) till it gives rated capacity,...or you find it is damaged,....
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  #16  
Old 09-01-2019, 02:21 PM
DHeal DHeal is offline
 
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IMHO, heat under the cowl is normally not an issue for the battery's health*. Next time you have the top cowl removed (takes less than two minutes) install a pigtail set of wires from the battery terminals to a suitable adapter plug that is compatible with your charger. You can then open the oil access door pull out the lead and easily plug in a charger, VOM, etc.

*ps -- It helps to open the oil access door after every flight to vent the heat within the cowling. This is good for the engine's electronics, hoses, wiring, and cowling fiberglass.
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Last edited by DHeal : 09-01-2019 at 02:26 PM.
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  #17  
Old 09-02-2019, 03:15 PM
NinerBikes NinerBikes is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHeal View Post
IMHO, heat under the cowl is normally not an issue for the battery's health*. Next time you have the top cowl removed (takes less than two minutes) install a pigtail set of wires from the battery terminals to a suitable adapter plug that is compatible with your charger. You can then open the oil access door pull out the lead and easily plug in a charger, VOM, etc.

*ps -- It helps to open the oil access door after every flight to vent the heat within the cowling. This is good for the engine's electronics, hoses, wiring, and cowling fiberglass.
I do the PS oil access door at every stop to let the heat out. Always button it back up after burping the engine and checking the oil level as pre flight check too. Don't want that flapping around on run up or take off.
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  #18  
Old 09-02-2019, 04:16 PM
NinerBikes NinerBikes is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mich48041 View Post
Many Ducati voltage regulators put out less than 14 volts. My Ducati put out
13.8 volts. A friend's Ducati puts out 13.7 volts. I now have a John Deere
voltage regulator that puts out 14.1 when the RPM is above 4000.
If your friend's 20 minute flight includes 10 minutes of warm up and taxiing and
another 5 minutes of closed throttle for landing and taxiing, then that does not
leave very much time to recharge the battery.
Usually a battery maintainer is not recommended. But there are exceptions.
20 minutes is as estimated on Flightaware. Does not include start up, taxi, run up, waiting behind the hold short line to take off, or take off and turn. Doesn't really include time until about 15 to 1700 AGL or about 2700 ft elev, when we finally show up on ADSB and Flightaware starts recording time in flight. We also dissappear below about 3000 feet at KSZP, so add in 4 or 5 minutes landing too. Probably close to 35 minute or more of run time on the Hobbs.
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  #19  
Old 09-02-2019, 04:20 PM
NinerBikes NinerBikes is offline
 
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Going to pull my clamp inductance measurement device out of the Rec Vehicle that measures current flow, and start pulling fuses, and see what we get, since I bought it and used it to measure current draw on every single circuit in the rig, as well as calculate total current draw in a 24 hour period, before the solar panel and day break kicked in to charge things back up from overnight.

Thanks all, for the suggestions.

Last edited by NinerBikes : 09-02-2019 at 07:58 PM.
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  #20  
Old 09-05-2019, 01:17 AM
NinerBikes NinerBikes is offline
 
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It's a bit early, but I think this one might have a dead cell, or an internal shorted cell inside the battery. Voltage was:

12.89 on 9-2 at 00:00z, after charging.

12.79 on 9-3

12.68 on 9-4

12.61 on 9-5 in the early AM

It was 12.85 when brand new. No telling how long it had been on the shelf.

I don't think we're going to be able to fly this Sunday, judging by the way the voltage keeps dropping. A weekday flight to Corona might be in order to visit Aircraft Spruce again.

Last edited by NinerBikes : 09-07-2019 at 12:55 AM.
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