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  #11  
Old 08-30-2017, 04:51 PM
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Bubblehead Bubblehead is offline
 
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It seems that a heat muff with stainless steel wool or welded on studs works so well that I can't see the point of doing something this complex. I don't mean to sound negative but you can get tons of heat by just getting the surface area up and slowing down the air flow to give it more time to heat up.
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  #12  
Old 08-30-2017, 05:15 PM
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Zuldarin Zuldarin is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubblehead View Post
It seems that a heat muff with stainless steel wool or welded on studs works so well that I can't see the point of doing something this complex. I don't mean to sound negative but you can get tons of heat by just getting the surface area up and slowing down the air flow to give it more time to heat up.
There are a couple of reasons for doing this but the main reason was that I eliminated a 2" hole in my baffles by using the air already destined for the oil cooler. More airflow through the cylinder fins. :-)
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  #13  
Old 08-30-2017, 05:22 PM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Get some exhaust wrap and just wrap the heater muff, not the exhaust pipe(s). That will make a big difference in the heat output without having to resort to steel wool or other tricks.
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  #14  
Old 08-30-2017, 05:56 PM
vetterman vetterman is offline
 
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Default Oil cooler heat

Looks like the wheel is being invented here again. The year was 1985 and I was stationed in West Texas. I fabricated an oil cooler heater in my -4. Worked fairly good in temps down to @ 40. So I loaded up my new wife and headed up to South Dakota. When we left there to go back to Texas, the temperature was a balmy +5 F. We both froze our as**s off and I lost feeling in my feet. I was concerned about landing with numb feet, but no problem. First fuel stop Garden City Ks, new wife tried to find other means of getting home. She didn't want to get back in what she called "the meat locker". I finally convinced her that it would get warmer the farther south we went. Not so, it was cold the whole way. Ya, we were like ice cycles again. At that point she was speechless-for about 3-4 days. My next project was to do away with that system and install heat muffs. It took some convincing to get her back in the -4 again. Later on I stopped in Garden City and the young lady behind the counter said, "I remember you, can I ask you a question? Sure, no problem. She wanted to know if I was still married!! Remembering the conversation the last time there. Ah yes memories of the -4 days. So go ahead guys. Fabricate your oil cooler heaters and have fun. I hope your more successful at it than I was. Larry v.
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  #15  
Old 08-31-2017, 09:01 AM
fly3g fly3g is offline
 
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Default Thanks, great info

I appreciate all the comments and personal experiences. Kind of confirmed what I was thinking in that the heat source isn't as efficient in transferring heat into the air (smaller delta T) if the airflow is controlled. Thanks will probably rig traditionally.
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  #16  
Old 09-03-2017, 07:47 PM
Northernliving Northernliving is offline
 
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I asked the same question a couple of years ago, as I was interested in getting some heat to the back seat. Bottom line is when you need the heat, the oil really isn't hot enough, and secondly, most concluded that they didn't want oil lines running in the cabin. I tend to agree. I believer that Velocities may do this, though. Mike Stewart and a few others have cut a hole in the web spar and run a duct to the back seat area with good success. You can see his solution on his website. Of course, you are off off Van's plans at this point, so do so at your own risk. I do have the details from Bill Palmer along with photos. If you are interested, send me a PM and I can forward them to you.
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