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  #21  
Old 10-31-2009, 02:35 PM
RVnoob RVnoob is offline
 
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I am speechless...

I can't believe you would go through ALL that trouble to
make something so beautiful... that nobody would see.

It is genuinely a master piece.

Thanks for sharing... I have learned more than fiberglass techniques.
I have learned that the product is really a reflection of its maker.
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  #22  
Old 10-31-2009, 03:43 PM
David-aviator David-aviator is offline
 
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Darn it, Dan, you're good at what you do.

I need to build a filter box for a K&N cone filter and have down loaded the entire thread to a pdf file for reference on how to do it. I've had lots of trouble getting a lay up to release from a foam mold and you've come up with an excellent, excellent method.

Mocha gratis!
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  #23  
Old 10-07-2011, 09:54 AM
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DanH DanH is online now
 
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Another illustration...a duct on the underside of a plenum lid. Carved/sanded foam, micro to fill the dents and divots, epoxy skin, light sanding, wax, PVA, and do the layup.

So simple a caveman.....oh, never mind





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  #24  
Old 10-07-2011, 11:03 AM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Here's a silly question Dan - where do you get the pink foam in blocks? ACS? Or local sources? (I hate the idea of paying shipping for a bulky block of mostly air!) When we made our cheek cowl extensions, we laminated up a block from a sheet of Home Depot insulation - gotta be a better way!

Paul
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  #25  
Old 10-07-2011, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironflight View Post
Here's a silly question Dan - where do you get the pink foam in blocks? ACS? Or local sources? (I hate the idea of paying shipping for a bulky block of mostly air!) When we made our cheek cowl extensions, we laminated up a block from a sheet of Home Depot insulation - gotta be a better way! Paul
That's it....pink 4' x 8' x 2" thick sheets from Home Depot. I like the stuff because it is very small cell.

Did you have some difficulty with laminating the block size you needed?

If you really want a giant one-piece foam block, find floatation billets intended for dock construction on your local lakes.
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Last edited by DanH : 10-07-2011 at 11:54 AM.
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  #26  
Old 10-07-2011, 12:06 PM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
Did you have some difficulty with laminating the block size you needed?
.
Well, they only had the 3/4" when I went shopping, so it took a bunch of layers! We used spray adhesive, and it worked "ok", but it left some voids in places that took a little extra work. 2" would be a lot better!

Great tips - as usual! We still have intersection fairings to make....
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  #27  
Old 10-07-2011, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironflight View Post
Well, they only had the 3/4" when I went shopping, so it took a bunch of layers! We used spray adhesive, and it worked "ok", but it left some voids in places that took a little extra work. 2" would be a lot better!
Ahh, spray adhesive isn't so good...solvents melt the foam. Use a very thin layer of dry micro* instead.

Look close and you can see two laminations (three blocks) in the above form.

(*microbubbles and epoxy mixed to the consistency of firm peanut butter. It sands better if mixed more "dry".)
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  #28  
Old 10-07-2011, 02:00 PM
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Do you peel the "skin" off before joining layers Dan?
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  #29  
Old 10-07-2011, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
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Do you peel the "skin" off before joining layers Dan?
I have used some thin (<1") small-cell blue foam sheet with a plastic film on it, and yes, you need to peel the plastic. The 2" pink foam sheets don't have a plastic film.
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  #30  
Old 10-07-2011, 04:29 PM
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Bill Wightman Bill Wightman is offline
 
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Default Foam Block surfacing

Dan, looks like we use nearly identical technique. I have an alternate way to produce the desired release surface on the foam tool: Mix up some plaster of paris (gypsum plaster) and squeegee it on.

Using a squeegee, it will penetrate the foam enough for good adhesion and then sands quickly to a nice finish. The plaster also fills voids with ease. If you sand too deeply into the plaster, the area will require a re-coat to get the surface back.

Finish with paste wax, and if needed some PVA before glassing the part up.

Really cheap, fast, easy and produces great results.
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