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Rear window cracks

mwjohn63

Member
Rear window cracks
I just discovered some cracks in the rear window, pilot side, and looking for advice.
I’m not exactly sure of the cause, but I did drip some Loctite on this screw during the re-installation of the top canopy handle. I tried to clean it off as best I could, but in hindsight, I should have removed the screw and completely cleaned it up…. now I’m paying the price. I can stop drill the obvious cracks, but not sure what I can do for the frost style cracking.
Options: should I replace the window or are there some good repair options.
Thanks, MJ

https://markjohnson-photography.smugmug.com/Marks-RV-12-N418MJ/
 
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ACRIFIX? 1R 0192 Bright Is a UV curing acrylic cement. I used it for some star cracks l had in my rear window. It worked well. Might be worth a try. You?ll find some YouTube videos showing the cement bond to be stronger than the base material.
 
Airplane Plastics

I recently replaced my rear window, it was not a difficult job. Mine was the original Lexan flat window. There were 2 significant cracks near the fuel filler, and several crazed and cracked areas around screw holes at the roll bar. They were much worse than yours. I did stop drill the cracks near the fuel filler until I got the new plexiglass window.
I ordered the plexiglass rear window from Van?s, and picked it up from Airplane Plastics in Tipp City Ohio where they are manufactured. I saved shipping and handling. I noticed that you are in Ohio, so that might work for you.
 
I replaced my back widow with the molded version. A bit pricey, but no more cracks. You could try stop drilling the branches and filling the holes with clear RTV, but eventually you?ll probably have to replace it. You can buy a lexan sheet at Home Depot, but it will probably craze and crack like the original flexed sheet design.
 
Count me among those who have replaces the flat polycarbonate rear window with the molded acrylic one. We attached it with Sikaflex, and I'm very happy with it.
 
Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions. I went ahead and purchased the formed Plexiglas rear window and picked it up yesterday from Airplane Plastics in Tipp City, OH. Jeff at AP mentioned that Loctite is death for Lexan and Plexiglas, so now I know to first, don't drip any and second, clean it up completely right away when I do. Now to figure out how to remove the screws without messing up the paint and how to peal off the old window from the pro-seal.
Thanks again, MJ
 
Why are you using Loctite? The lock huts should be adequate. Are you using it on the crash arch? I Have had the crash arch fillet head screws back out some.
 
After finally painting the top canopy handle to match the plane...the Loctite was for the handle screw. I was thinking that was the last thing needed to say the plane is complete...that's what I get for thinking. :)

MJ
Flying RV-12 (70+ hrs and trip to Oshkosh 2019)
N418MJ
Warren County, OH (I68)
[email protected]
 
Loctite and plexiglass equals cracks. I only wish I had been able to give you that information *before* the application of Loctite. Loctite is great for what it does, but the interaction with plastic is detrimental. Hopefully, this post will prevent others from the same mistake.
 
Loctite and plexiglass equals cracks. I only wish I had been able to give you that information *before* the application of Loctite. Loctite is great for what it does, but the interaction with plastic is detrimental. Hopefully, this post will prevent others from the same mistake.

Section 5 in the construction manual has very strong cautions about using thread locker near canopies (acrylic), but in this case I think the OP has made it pretty clear that he wasn't using it on fasteners in the canopy.... just that he accidentally spilled some while putting it on a fastener for the canopy latch handle.
 
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