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  #1  
Old 04-21-2019, 08:08 AM
Rockologist Rockologist is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Edmond, Ok
Posts: 3
Default HS-702 Flange

Happy Easter everyone. Like many my first post here is a call for help. I just finished the HS-702 relief holes and was pleased with how they turned out, BUT I forgot to flatten the flanges you cut back leaving a slight rise in the surface of the HS-702 tab next to the relief holes. I cut the flange down so far I am no longer left with anything to bite onto to bend them flat. I used my die grinder to grind one down flat and the HS-00001 Does indeed lay flat now, but I fear I have thinned the metal flatter than probably desired. Possible maybe to just trim the tabs back past the flange? Should I order new 702s and try again?
thanks!


You can see the rise of the leftover flange on the right of the relief notch.


702-profile


Doubler wont lie flat


So I ground down the protruding flange.


Doubler now lies flat, but did I make the 702 too thin in the process?

Last edited by Rockologist : 04-21-2019 at 08:11 AM.
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  #2  
Old 04-21-2019, 09:22 AM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,306
Default Rivet gun

That is pretty thin. Question for Vans.
If you replace it...
The pilot hole for the relief notch is drilled right in the vertex of flange/web. I used a 45° wedge to drill in the bend. The final 1/4 hole takes 1/8 off the web and flange.
Lay the part down on the back rivet plate and use the flush set and gun to massage it flat. Seems like the manual says something similar. Dial down the pressure to maybe 10 psi to start. You can use a piece of scrap to practice.
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http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/27/2018. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.

Last edited by wirejock : 04-21-2019 at 09:25 AM.
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  #3  
Old 04-21-2019, 08:26 PM
Girraf Girraf is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Southern Maryland
Posts: 89
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wirejock View Post
That is pretty thin. Question for Vans.
If you replace it...
The pilot hole for the relief notch is drilled right in the vertex of flange/web.
.
I have to disagree with Larry on this one. My plans show the center of that relief hole squarely on the web of the HS-702 spar, not in the vertex of the flange bend. I remember debating this for a long time if that made sense. Even after I drilled the hole, I was concerned I messed it up and showed Vans a picture and their reply was "notch looks great!". For the record, it looked just like what you've got now. I too had a small burr that I did my best to pound flat. In the end, that part is sandwiched between the doubler plate and the upper and lower angles. I think you're OK even if you polished the burr away. Some other builders took the same approach if you look around.

Its never a bad idea to call Vans, but I say good to go.
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  #4  
Old 04-22-2019, 06:11 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Location: Central IL
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Default

I too think it looks good. Just be sure the inside of that relief is shiny for fatigue resistance. Vans did a good bit of FEA on that section for the SB, so their opinion on the hole location is golden.
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  #5  
Old 04-22-2019, 08:55 AM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Default Relief notch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Girraf View Post
I have to disagree with Larry on this one. My plans show the center of that relief hole squarely on the web of the HS-702 spar, not in the vertex of the flange bend. I remember debating this for a long time if that made sense. Even after I drilled the hole, I was concerned I messed it up and showed Vans a picture and their reply was "notch looks great!". For the record, it looked just like what you've got now. I too had a small burr that I did my best to pound flat. In the end, that part is sandwiched between the doubler plate and the upper and lower angles. I think you're OK even if you polished the burr away. Some other builders took the same approach if you look around.

Its never a bad idea to call Vans, but I say good to go.
You are correct Kenny.
The center of the hole is 1/32" from the flange. The reason for my suggestion is any bit larger than 1/16" is going to hit the flange as it cuts and possibly walk making the notch more than the 5/32" called out in the detail. Just me being OCD!
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/27/2018. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.

Last edited by wirejock : 04-22-2019 at 09:01 AM.
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  #6  
Old 04-27-2019, 02:53 PM
Rockologist Rockologist is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Edmond, Ok
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Default

Thanks for the response guys! I got the rest flattened out using the flush set and ground back a bit the "thin" i made and still have ample edge distance so I feel I am good.

For the notches I used a round file to file down 5/16", my sharpie lines in the OP, from the edge which the plans called out

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  #7  
Old 04-27-2019, 03:18 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Default Congratulations

Congratulations. Now I feel bad. My old plans show it totally different. I was giving bad advise. Don't listen to me.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/27/2018. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #8  
Old 04-27-2019, 03:41 PM
Girraf Girraf is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Southern Maryland
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wirejock View Post
Congratulations. Now I feel bad. My old plans show it totally different. I was giving bad advise. Don't listen to me.
I never saw the old plans, but I figured they changed the guidance when they released the service bulletin. When I was researching build logs (pre Service bulletin), I noticed the notch was much shallower and there was more shaping/blending. Basically it looked VERY different from what I was interpreting the directions to be and I wasn't sure if it was because I was mis-reading the plans or if Vans has in fact modified the instructions. Turns out it was the latter!
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  #9  
Old 04-27-2019, 04:11 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Default Old Notch detail

Here's my plan detail. Notch is 1/2 as deep.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/27/2018. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.

Last edited by wirejock : 04-27-2019 at 05:04 PM.
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  #10  
Old 04-27-2019, 05:05 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Default Scale

Thanks. I dropped it down to Medium.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/27/2018. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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