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Cowl fasteners

Guilhermepilot

Well Known Member
Hello, wich type of fasteners vans suply with their kits? Mine have not arrived yet, and I heard the camlocks big size is almost a requirement.

Thanks captains
 
Vans supplies hinge material that you fab cowl attach hardware from. Many use 1/4 turn fasteners instead. I used the "Milspec" brand and really like them. Costs more, probably weighs a little more, but more adjustable, and easily replaceable in the future if something wears out. More sturdy IMHO.

Bevan
 
You get hinges to make the cowl fasteners between the top and bottom - and the firewall. If you want camlock fasteners, you have to order them. They are expensive. I used the hinges but I do not like how they work. I am going to order the camlocks and re-do it.
 
Thanks captains I will consider those 1/4 fasteners I had it on my old skylane they are good, I was just curious what vans deliver with its cowl seems like they are not easy to deal with
 
I have used the combination of hinges and #8 screws. Hinges are used for the bottom cowl and the attaching the two halves and screws & nut plate for the top of the cowl. Clean looking, not that many screw to remove for removal of the cowl and cheap.
 
I used camlocs on the entire top cowl. If I were to do it again, I would use hinge on all straight seams and save the camlocs for around the top cowl at the firewall. Everywhere else the pins slide in super easy, are just as fast or faster, distribute the load more evenly, and cost way less.
 
I used hinges and am happy with the cheap costs, ease of removing cowling, and the clean look they provide.

If you use Camlocks of any kind make sure to use tight spacing on the upper cowl so that you don't end up with scalloping of the aft section during flight. I suppose you could reinforce the cowl in someway to also help limit scalloping.
 
I used the supplied hinges. Nice clean install with nothing exposed on cowl. Quick removal makes taking cowl on and off a breeze.
 
I used camlocs on the entire top cowl. If I were to do it again, I would use hinge on all straight seams and save the camlocs for around the top cowl at the firewall. Everywhere else the pins slide in super easy, are just as fast or faster, distribute the load more evenly, and cost way less.

I agree 100%. I used camlocs all around the firewall (except the bottom). If I were to do it again, I'd only use them for the top cowl-to firewall attachment.
 
We used SkyBolt 1/4 turn fasteners. I was a little skeptical at first but quickly realized it was the way to go. installation is simple, it looks great, and the cowls come of very easily. In fact, we purchased the upper/lower firewall kit last summer and after installing them and seeing just how easy they were to install, we ordered the cowl split line kit last week.Worth every penny!
 
I see all the varieties of solutions here. I am curious about the post that the hinge pins are easy. My 9A came with hinges all around... but #8 screws that release the hinge along the top of the cowling. I have pushed and pulled on those hinge pins and they don't budge. I just zip the screws out with a power driver.
The rest, as mentioned slide easily and go back OK. One thing I notice is the bottom, horizontal pins in the area of the exhaust tend to drift towards center. I don't see a handy place to safety them. Anybody got a clever IDEA?
 
With Hinges there probably is a care/quality of construction that needs to be maintained to ensure they slip in and out easily. I understand some bind if the hinge halves aren't lined up correctly when drilling and installing etc. I clean my hinge pins with Acetone and then apply Boe Lube to them at each oil change. Ensures they always slip out without issue. Try acetone then Boe Lube on the pins.
 
Go look at a Piper Aztec or a Twin Comanche. Both use pins in the nose cowl. Check out the way the pin is folded back and into a hook. Use some left over hinge to make a hook to catch the pin. As for ease of remove and install I just wipe the pins with the rag that I used to check the oil. Fresh clean lube every time is the key.
 
after 15 yrs I decided to replace the nutplates[which didn't have much resistance left in them] along the firewall and nose with camlocs. turns out I could only use the original style because of the small amount of flange to fasten to. camlocs reach is sized by the 1 /32". I discovered that my fiberglass cowl [the old, original style] varied quite a bit in thickness. the seat of these camlocs are not adjustable, but the plunger 1/4 turn screw part comes in various lengths. after much messing around [I was replacing 24 nutplates] I also discovered that the one time only locking washer adds to the thickness, so your trial fits may be off. fortunate for me, Columbia Aeromotive is up the street from TTD. I made many trips. I forgot to add that the hole distance for camlocs is about a 1/2 rivet width narrower than a std nutplate. I machined an adapter drill guide to locate the camloc seat exactly where the nutplate had been so that the holes in the fiberglass cowl still aligned. so, long story long, use the adjustable ones if possible. [I didn't have the choice, no room]. if you do, first buy a set of #6 thru 10 and use these to figure the correct fastener length for each hole, then order the rest. with the flush fit camlocs, setting them in a 1/4" thin washer will perfectly replace the tinnerman washer used with the #8 screws. total cost for 24, maybe $180?
 
Hinges

I used hinges for the top and sides of the cowl. Along the bottom I have 3 #8 screws and nutplates on each side for a total of #6. Works great. Just make sure you take care getting the hinges lined up perfectly prior to setting them.
 
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