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  #1  
Old 10-11-2018, 09:18 PM
lr172 lr172 is online now
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
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Default Dealing with skin gap at Tie Down Blocks

My QB wings have about 1/8" gap between the skin and the bottom edge of the long threaded block that the tie tie down ring screw into. If I don't deal with it, the skin will deform (probably not permanently) when I tighten a lock nut. I would like to get something in there to bridge the gap.

I am thinking JB weld or epoxy and have some ideas on doing it without it getting into the threads. However, I am curious if someone in the group has come up with a good idea for dealing with this.

Larry
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  #2  
Old 10-11-2018, 09:38 PM
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wjb wjb is offline
 
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The trick I used for my 7 is to screw in a set screw to limit the depth of penetration of the tiedown ring shaft. This way, you can get the tiedown ring flang (if you have one) right up against the skin.
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  #3  
Old 10-11-2018, 09:39 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is online now
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lr172 View Post
My QB wings have about 1/8" gap between the skin and the bottom edge of the long threaded block that the tie tie down ring screw into. If I don't deal with it, the skin will deform (probably not permanently) when I tighten a lock nut. I would like to get something in there to bridge the gap.

I am thinking JB weld or epoxy and have some ideas on doing it without it getting into the threads. However, I am curious if someone in the group has come up with a good idea for dealing with this.

Larry
Use a dremel to enlarge the hole in the skin. You'll get a structurally better connection that way and won't deform the skin.
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  #4  
Old 10-12-2018, 07:18 AM
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Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
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Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
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Put a sleeve on the tiedown so that it acts as a stop. Another simple way is to use JB weld on a few threads next to the ring.

If doing a slow build wing move the tie down block lower so it is flush on the inside of the wing. Add a rubber washer on the tiedown ring to protect the paint.

Carl
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  #5  
Old 10-12-2018, 07:30 AM
ALagonia ALagonia is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
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I added a rubber grommet to the base of the tie down ring on my 9. Seems to work fine.
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  #6  
Old 10-12-2018, 09:05 AM
cholladay cholladay is offline
 
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Location: San Antonio
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I did what Kyle said. Enlarged the hole.
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  #7  
Old 10-12-2018, 10:21 AM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
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Default Tie down bracket

If the wing is still open, replace the brackets and install them so they are flush. That's what I did.
Cleveland sells a kit with three brackets and rings. Brackets are pre-tapped.
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  #8  
Old 10-12-2018, 11:13 AM
John Tierney John Tierney is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Salem, WI
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For my tail tie-down I found a nylon shouldered washer/spacer in the hardware store that I wedged/popped between the inside of the skin and the bracket. I think I had to file the nylon a little and adjust the skin hole size.
Looks like this: http://wedo.hillmangroup.com/viewite...oulder-washers
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  #9  
Old 10-12-2018, 12:55 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
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Location: Pocahontas MS
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If it were me, I'd do the same trick, but with an aluminum 'shim'. Cut to fit, drill slightly oversize hole, slide into place, screw in the tiedown, and proseal or RTV around the edges to the skin and between the shim and the anchor extrusion.

Hint: You can shave a 1/4" thick slab of aluminum to whatever thickness you need on a table saw with a carbide blade. (Goggles & gloves advised...)
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  #10  
Old 10-12-2018, 01:11 PM
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Paddy Paddy is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 189
Default Tie-Down Shim

This shim was riveted onto the skin before she skin was riveted to the spar.
However, I think that skin is already riveted on the QB wings, so another method of getting the spacer in there would be needed.

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