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Seeking advice on painting interior

DavidHarris

Well Known Member
I'm building an RV-7 and am about to reach the Forward Fuselage Finishing step where Vans says "if you intend to pain the interior, it is the time."

I've never painted anything more complex than my bedroom and my picnic table, and am hoping for some advice from those who know more about painting.

I'm intending to do a full Classic Aero interior including sportsman side panels. I've done minimal priming in the build so far; just the essentials. To protect the metal from wear, I think it makes sense to put a basic white paint job on the interior parts that won't be paneled.

Should I just drive the fuselage over to a paint shop in Southern California? How much should I expect a basic white paint job to cost? But if I don't learn to paint now, I'm concerned I'll have to do the same for the canopy and perhaps other components. And it would be interesting to learn to paint if it isn't hard to get decent results.

Can anyone point me to resources to learn to paint the interior myself? How many coats are needed? What type of paint is easy and durable? What application system is easy to use?

I'm building in a college lab that isn't a great place for painting. I've gone outside to do spray paint. Can I do the same for the interior, or will I have problems with dust? Is it better to do this in my garage?

Thanks!

David
 
Interior paint

Take a look at Sherwin William's Jet Flex water based interior paint. A search will return quite a bit of information.
I sprayed mine with SW Jet Flex Solvet Based so I can't provide much help with mixing or spraying.
You will need to scuff before spraying for mechanical adhesion. Usually done with 400 grit. Most paints have detailed instructions on spraying over previously painted surfaces.
You will need a decent HVLP paint gun. Disposable paint cups are a really nice addition. Also need a compressor.
It can be done with one coat. Keep it light. Dust can be an issue if it's outside. You already sprayed primer. Any issues?
The other option is rattle can or no interior paint. Lots of RVs flying with just primer and lots painted with rattle can.
 
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Painting my interior was a first for me too, I think I got great results, here's what I learned:

A good DTM (direct to metal) epoxy primer like SEM or similar. You can even set it up as a sealer (so no top coat is necessary).

Biggest thing is surface prep. Clean with MEK or Acetone until absolutely no dirt comes off on your paper towels (don't use the blue shop towels, use Bounty).

I used the 3M AccuSpray System with great results, easy cleanup, and easy to use.

You can setup a temporary "paint booth" with duct tape and disposable plastic tarps. Use good ventilation and wear a good mask with actual filters, not a surgical mask.
 
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Same boat

I am in the same boat. I am finishing up the forward fuselage and am contemplating paining the interior when I do the final de-burring and priming. I figure if I mess up the interior paint, I can always buy more elaborate interior panels. I have seen others RV9 interiors from first time painters using SW products and they came out pretty nice; quite acceptable by my standards.
 
One comment - light interior colors create bright reflections on the inside of the canopy. My interior paint is beige and the reflections are annoying sometimes.

The point is, I wouldn't use white on the interior of the airplane.
 
Sparingly

In general, be very selective on where you paint the interior. I would limit it as much as possible since it adds in many cases, unnecessary weight. For instance...many paint their interiors to only have the fabulous interior kits cover most of it up.
 
I used a light gray vinylized paint by Dupont. Man oh man has that stuff withstood the test of time.

Like others have said, clean the surface, apply a light coat of prime, and then shoot the final paint. The vinyl paint goes on thick, so it's one (cost) and done.
 
One comment - light interior colors create bright reflections on the inside of the canopy. My interior paint is beige and the reflections are annoying sometimes.

The point is, I wouldn't use white on the interior of the airplane.

I used a light grey SPI epoxy primer as the base & final coat. It is very tough and one benefit is it has a very low gloss level, almost satin. Avoiding a top coat save weight.

Larry
 
Jet Flex WR

I used Jet Flex WR in beige with a flattener added to take down the gloss. Applied over AKZO epoxy primer with a cheap Harbor Freight HVLP gun. Results were great relative to my painting experience. I was stunned how well it came out. Some learnings:
1. Thin with distilled water according to instructions and the HF gun does a fine job.
2. I only got a couple of uses out of each gun, the water does a number on their insides... Still, if you buy a few while they're on sale at $9.99 a pop, you're still way ahead.
3. The paint adheres well to clean Kydex plastic (Aerosport panels) without additional prep and is tough as nails when dry. (Boeing uses it)
4. The fumes are minimal and non-toxic, so you can paint in an attached garage/hangar and not get evicted by the wife.
5. Touch-up is easy with a small sponge brush if/when necessary
 
Interior paint

If you are going to do a Classic Aero Interior then paint isn?t important. Just use rattle can primer and paint. The Hammered Look paint is cool. The Classic Aero Interior covers just about everything.

Save your paint budget for the exterior.

I just installed Classic Aero interior and it is great.
 
Best tip I ever got was using Hammered rattle can paint. The hammered texture makes it easy to blend in repairs if needed later. I just hope they do not discontinue it somewhere down the line.
 
Had great results with the Jet Flex water reducible paint as well ... and would use it again if doing another interior. The only down side is the paint will take many days to reach full hardness so be careful with the parts until the paint has achieved full cure ... it is really tough when fully cured.

Admittedly, there is a learning curve to get the gun adjusted correctly because it is a really thick paint and should only be thinned a little with distilled water per the application data sheet. I used a 1.8 tip which worked out nicely with my Eastman Councours HVLP spray gun.

Cleanup is a little more involved because I found if just using plain water for cleaning the spray gun, it does not cut the film very well. Using a solution of Ammonia and water at least 60/40 will cut through the paint nicely and get most of the residue broken down. I follow that with Acetone which works nicely to remove the remaining film on the gun's parts.
 
Three airplanes, all the same process:
- Clean with maroon Scotchbrite and Colman fuel
- Prime with PPG DP40LF
- Top coat with PPG single stage paint (one coat is all that is needed)

Total cost perhaps $100. No need for a paint booth. First take everything out of the plane that can be taken out. Paint those parts on a table. Defer final floor install until you paint the floor panels and rest of the interior is done. Run conduit and such after interior paint. For the current project I waited on installing the forward and aft top skins until after interior paint, then painted the inside of the top skins in the baggage compartment areas before final install.

I use a medium gray for the interior and a dark gray for the panel, control sticks, engine baffles and such. First plane interior was a painted 17 years ago and still looks like the day I painted it. The common dark gray makes out year panel modifications easy - just a new piece of aluminum, cut holes and paint.

I don?t like what I?ve seen with many aftermarket interior kits. They look fine for a few years then get that ?worn out Cessna? look. That and the useless weight add leaves me more on the minimalist side.

Rattle can paint is, in my opinion, a poor choice as it is harder to use (if you want it to look like something other than a rattle can paint job) and does not stand up to normal use.

Tip - if you plan to fly before final exterior paint, PPG primer and single stage top coat on the fiberglass parts will really make your plane look finished (I tend to use a medium blue as it goes well with the bare aluminum and gray interior). The extra coat of paint will get wet sanded when ready for final paint - it just adds to a better prep.

Carl
 
I've been painting parts prior to final assembly instead of trying to paint the entire interior working in tight quarters. I went the rattle can path, but instead of the popular hammered finish, I'm using granite texture paint. I like the way it looks, and it should also be easy to do repairs down the road and have them blend in. The only question is how it'll hold up...
 
I've been painting parts prior to final assembly instead of trying to paint the entire interior working in tight quarters. I went the rattle can path, but instead of the popular hammered finish, I'm using granite texture paint. I like the way it looks, and it should also be easy to do repairs down the road and have them blend in. The only question is how it'll hold up...

Watch out on those stone-look rattle can paints. Most are water soluble, not for outdoor use.
 
Paint before assembky

I've been painting parts prior to final assembly instead of trying to paint the entire interior working in tight quarters. I went the rattle can path, but instead of the popular hammered finish, I'm using granite texture paint. I like the way it looks, and it should also be easy to do repairs down the road and have them blend in. The only question is how it'll hold up...

I did as well but for different reasons.
I wanted the rivets and screws to contrast
I wanted to paint areas that would show. The idea was to save weight as I do not plan on a full interior.
 
There are a lot of ways to skin this cat.

I'd start by typing "How to paint a car" into an Amazon search block, and buy a few books. Look for the ones with the most recent publication dates. Paint technology changes over time.

Do use a glare light. A gang of fluorescent bulbs on a stand works fine. Position them about waist high so the light comes across the painted surface at a low angle while you spray. You'll be amazed at how well you can see the paint droplets hitting the surface and blending together.

Don't need a fancy gun. I seem to do just as well with the HF gun I've had a long time, but I suspect HF gun quality may vary. If you want better, buy it. The best airplane painter I've ever had the chance to thoroughly interrogate (Clint Sweet, formerly at the Kimball shop in Florida) liked a Devilbiss GFG670 Plus, with a Devilbiss SRi Pro for detail work. Not super expensive.

I'm completely with Carl regarding paint choice. Epoxy primer and a two-part paint is tougher than any spray can paint. Single stage (two-part top coat, no clear coat) or two-stage (single part base followed by two part clear) are both fine.

My interior is metallic GM Silver Birch base with gloss clear, PPG Deltron DBC and DCU2021 . One might think it would be too reflective, but it's really not noticeable at all. Glareshield is flat black of course. Panel is flattened.

Water will get in somehow. Shoot an epoxy primer on the inside belly panels, and don't forget a little bitty drain hole.

Do not paint the inside of the firewall. Bare stainless is the safe fire/smoke choice.

How do you get to Carnegie Hall? Practice of course. It's really dumb to try shooting the first time on your new airplane. Go to the nearest junkyard, get a few old fenders, clean 'em up, and learn to use the gun.
 
Load it in your van and take it to your friends paint booth. O K it is a 12 but I am sure you can get a 7 in a bigger van

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Thanks

Thank you everyone. This is extremely helpful.

Looks like I'll prime where I plan to paint and on the interior bottom skin where water might accumulate. Most of the interior will be covered with the Classic Aero Design side panels and carpets and I'll avoid painting those parts to save weight.

Then I'll either paint with a Rustoleum hammered gray rattle can or with Sherwin Williams JetFlex. Sounds like JetFlex will last longer, but the rattle can may be good enough and would be much simpler to apply, especially given that only a small part of the interior needs paint.
 
Here's a thread from a while back that I've saved while contemplating the same decisions: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=18482&highlight=rustoleum

I've yet to paint the interior, but I've tested out a few different prep, prime, paint methods with the materials I have on hand. The best results I've had so far are:

1. Maroon scotch brite scuff / Acetone clean up
2. Light prime with zinc chromate
3. 2 - 3 light coats of rustoleum (type mentioned in thread above)

The one thing I will say is that it took ~2-3 days to fully cure and harden. Until then the paint was easily nicked. Beyond that it is pretty dang tough. I suppose the curing time could have been accelerated, but I just left it at room temperature in the garage.
 
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