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Wing Stand

Scott Hersha

Well Known Member
I am past the point where I need to attach my outboard leading edges to the wing on my RV14 kit. What have you other builders done to enable you to do this? A normal wing jig arrangement works for the wing root, using the spar stub as a holding, but what about at the tip? What kind of an apparatus have others used to hold the wings for attaching leading edges, fuel tanks, bottom skin, etc? Pictures would be helpful.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
Scott,

You mean something like the following photos. I tried look for a photo from another angle so you can see how the root of the spar attaches. I don't know if it's worth the drive (gas may cost more than doing it yourself) but the stand is available (as is free) at KDLZ. I was about ready to cut it up since I just put my wings on for the final time.

Construction plans can be found on Larry Rosen's site. The last photo is off Larry's site of Albert Garner's stand. I think this may be the stage that you're at the moment. You can see how he uses a 2x4 as a temporary rest unitl the leading edge modules are installed.

bob

FP05012013A00022.jpg


FP16112010A000CK.jpg


AS_WS1.jpg
 
I clecoed the leading edge to the spar on the work table, then placed the assembly in the wing craddle as in Bob's photo for riveting.
 
I am past the point where I need to attach my outboard leading edges to the wing on my RV14 kit. What have you other builders done to enable you to do this? A normal wing jig arrangement works for the wing root, using the spar stub as a holding, but what about at the tip? What kind of an apparatus have others used to hold the wings for attaching leading edges, fuel tanks, bottom skin, etc? Pictures would be helpful.

Thanks

I don't know about the -14 but on the -7, they have you attach an angle to the forward end of the outboard rib:
FP09092012A00003.jpg
 
Thanks guys. These are ideas I was considering. I wasn't sure about the wing sling on a leading edge that's not attached would be stable, but the pictures look like it will. Clecoeing the leading edge, then putting that end in the sling and the spar stub clamped to a cross brace looks like a good stable rig. My RV6 & RV8 wings were QBs and I just used a sling.

Thanks
 
The stand is very stable. Here's how they made the twenty mile trip between the paint shop and the hangar. All the skins rear of the spar were riveted sitting in the stand. The carpet sling shows no sign of fatigue after just under four years of use.

FP05012013A00024.jpg
 
Thanks Bob. I'll definitely do something similar with mine. I'm going to try to paint prior to final assembly too.
 
Since it looks like the question was answered, Guess I can hijack it...
What is the difference between a paint job before assembly and a paint job after first flight?
 
Since it looks like the question was answered, Guess I can hijack it...
What is the difference between a paint job before assembly and a paint job after first flight?


In my case, about $8k in total cost (paint job and round trip travel).

There are advantages and disadvantages to both approaches.
 
Before assembly the wings for example can be rotated while being painted (rotisserie). If flying all connections have been made, close tolerance bolts are fitted and removing the wings is not desirable, requiring painter laying under aircraft in paint overspray and dust.
 
There might be environmental advantages to painting before first flight as well. Both of my airplanes were painted in February in central Ohio - just worked out that way. Even though the hangar was heated, it wasn't as warm as it should have been. If I paint before final assembly, I'll have it in a controlled paint booth no matter what time of year it is.

A negative would be if you had trouble with something after first flight and had to do some modification/repair that would involve painted metal or fiberglass.
 
Ron hit the nail on the head. When painting parts, there are quite a few different and creative ways to get them painted. This makes it much easier for the painter to get things done.

A rotisserie for the wings, hanging control surfaces and horizontal from the ceiling, and plenty of parts mounted to saw horses in a variety of ways.

The gentleman that painted mine is an auto guy by day and occasionally paints aircraft on the side. Before any comments about auto painters. He also has his own grass strip and three aircraft at his house. I learned quite a bit through the process. You can see some of the rigs he built or borrowed to get the job done in the paint section of mykitlog site.

Bob
 
I painted my -9A when it was in pieces prior to first flight. That worked out well and I'm glad it was all painted and done prior to taking it to the airport. The wings were painted on a rotisserie all of the smaller pieces painted separate in my makeshift paint booth. But with that said I won't be doing that again. There are noticeable color shade differences between parts that join. At least I notice. I actually repainted some pieces like the top cowl and wheel pant to even out the color. On the -14 I'll have as much of the airplane assembled as possible to make sure of color is blended between parts. The cowl will be on the plane, wingtips on the wings, wheel pant halves assembled and so forth. My empennage fairing was all white so no blending required on empennage. The wing roots were also white so no issue with wing to fuse as long if the tips were painted on the wing. That makes the rotisserie more challenging though. There wasn't any problem with blending the white. I used PPG two-stage auto paint. So my suggestion would be to pre-assemble as much as possible before painting unless you plan on an all-white airplane.
I don?t like painting screws and actually removed most screws from the fuel tanks when painting. So that will add a layer of complexity when painting assembled.
 
When painting parts, I think if you use the same batch of paint, (requires pouring all same color into one container and mixing) and paint all parts in the same time frame you'll be fine. Now if you paint the wings once completed and store them away until you complete the next components and continue that way you will see a different in color. But painting the wings to day and the fuselage tomorrow with the same primer and same batch of finish color I cannot see how you would have a problem.
 
When painting parts, I think if you use the same batch of paint, (requires pouring all same color into one container and mixing) and paint all parts in the same time frame you'll be fine. Now if you paint the wings once completed and store them away until you complete the next components and continue that way you will see a different in color. But painting the wings to day and the fuselage tomorrow with the same primer and same batch of finish color I cannot see how you would have a problem.

Actually that symptom is also an indication of an inconsistent painter, which could be caused by several root causes. The one that I've seen on other projects I've visited, is that the paint was put on in different thickness and/or different number of coats. Especially if you are painting white over a dark colored primer. Most common that I've seen is those that have painted their cowls off the aircraft. Then it looks like it's off just enough that the eye notices.
 
Actually that symptom is also an indication of an inconsistent painter, which could be caused by several root causes. The one that I've seen on other projects I've visited, is that the paint was put on in different thickness and/or different number of coats. Especially if you are painting white over a dark colored primer. Most common that I've seen is those that have painted their cowls off the aircraft. Then it looks like it's off just enough that the eye notices.

I can agree with the inconsistent painter. Me! It was my first airplane paint job and it was metalic color painted over a base color of white. The wings were painted one day and wingtips painted another sitting on a table. Wheel fairings painted split, standing upright next to each other on table. I'm sure if it wasn't metalic paint it would have been much more even. And yes I kept stirring that metalic. The entire process took three months so no way to paint it all at once or out of the same can. I think the -14 will be flown to a paint shop and dropped off. After buying the paint all my labor was probalby worth $2 an hour.
 
I can agree with the inconsistent painter. Me! It was my first airplane paint job and it was metalic color painted over a base color of white. The wings were painted one day and wingtips painted another sitting on a table. Wheel fairings painted split, standing upright next to each other on table. I'm sure if it wasn't metalic paint it would have been much more even. And yes I kept stirring that metalic. The entire process took three months so no way to paint it all at once or out of the same can. I think the -14 will be flown to a paint shop and dropped off. After buying the paint all my labor was probalby worth $2 an hour.

Even the guy I hired had problems with the red metallic. The difference between him and me is that he knew what to do to resolve the issue. The red metallic was very transparent over the white, so we had to put more coats on that anticipated to get a solid red. Then he had to tract the number of coats to ensure that he did the same on every piece. The two other metallic colors (dark gray and silver) weren't bad at all. Two thin coats and they looked perfect. He spent 99 hours working on the prep work and paint. I didn't keep track of my wife's and my time. It was worth every dollar I paid him.

You can still paint in parts, just find a local painter that you can build relationship with. With the RV-10 it was a little different transporting the fuselage due to it's 8' wheel base, but the with the 12, I would think it should fit on a standard trailer to haul offsite to the painter.
 
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