Moving an exhaust temperature probe on Vetterman exhaust

I drilled the exhaust probe location a little to high on the #3 cylinder, which is the one that's the most steeply angled toward the engine. As the result the end of the probe is hard up against the engine baffling. I want to relocate it about 3/4" lower, but I 'll need to fill in the hole that's already there.

What's the best way to do that? Could I weld it, or plug it with something, or do I have to buy a new pipe and start over?

Thanx,
Dave

How about a hose clamp, like the temp probe is using??

When I moved mine I cut off the head of a stainless steel flathead screw.
Left just enough thread to fit into the hole and put it in with a stainless hose clamp.

Or you can weld the hole up.

I had to move one of mine too, for a different reason (stupidity on my part). Exhaust from Vetterman, so I called Larry. He mentioned a strong concern about ensuring a proper weld so he wanted to do it the right way on his product. He said send it to him and welded for free including return shipping. Turn around time was quick, only limited by transportation time. Great customer service and support. If you are using his exhaust system suggest giving him a call.

EGT probes

Timely discussion for me, as I'm just finishing up the EGT probes. I had a similar issue years ago when I built my RV8, so I wanted to get it right the first time on the RV10. As you know, there are a lot of factors to consider in placing the probes, i.e., the same distance down the pipes on all cylinders, getting them on strait sections of the pipes, the clocking and routing of the leads, the leads interference with spark plug removal, CHT probe leads, ignition leads, baffling, not having the leads sticking out enough to be damaged by cowl installation, etc, etc.
So to plan this task, I got a hose clamp and drilled a hole in it and countersunk the inside of the clamp for a screw. Then I took 3 inch piece of aluminum tubing, tapped it and screwed it to the clamp. Now I had an EGT probe "simulator". I could clamp the rig to the pipes and tighten to see exactly were the leads would end up, and then accurately mark for the holes. You might be surprised how much the wire end of those probes will change position when the clamp is tightened. If you want to tuck the probe leads in tight, this is a necessary step.

cjhukill said:

I got a hose clamp and drilled a hole in it and countersunk the inside of the clamp for a screw. Then I took 3 inch piece of aluminum tubing, tapped it and screwed it to the clamp. Now I had an EGT probe "simulator". I could clamp the rig to the pipes and tighten to see exactly were the leads would end up, and then accurately mark for the holes. You might be surprised how much the wire end of those probes will change position when the clamp is tightened. If you want to tuck the probe leads in tight, this is a necessary step.

Click to expand...

Great idea, you should post this in the "Builder Tips" forum, photo or two would make it even better.

I had to move one and Larry told me to simply tap it to the smallest stainless screw size, cut it short and put a hose clamp over it so it could never back out.

It's worked fine for 400 hours.

Pretty much the same as Mel did.

Here's how we solved it...

Called Vetterman and sent the part back to them and they said all they will charge is the return shipping....

I have a MIG welder and some stainless steel wire, but when you can have the expert do it for free.. how can you choose otherwise..

Jack in Michigan

Filling the Hole

Yip, I did the same thing. Stainless steel phillips screw. Then I mig welded that with a cheapo Lincoln mig welder. Not pretty and maybe susceptible to rust, but doesn't leak. I do check it (and a few other things every time I pull the cowl. 900 hrs and no probs.