What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Best bucking bar?

Bill Boyd

Well Known Member
I'm going to be tackling the last large-scale riveting on this project soon - the bottom wing skins. With a standard assortment of steel bucking bars already in hand, I want to treat myself to a tungsten bar for these remaining work sessions to close up the wings.

What style of tungsten bar would you fellows recommend for getting the bottom wing skins done? At these prices, I only want to buy ONE!

Appreciate suggestions.
 
I'm going to be tackling the last large-scale riveting on this project soon - the bottom wing skins. With a standard assortment of steel bucking bars already in hand, I want to treat myself to a tungsten bar for these remaining work sessions to close up the wings.

What style of tungsten bar would you fellows recommend for getting the bottom wing skins done? At these prices, I only want to buy ONE!

Appreciate suggestions.

I used this one: http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Tungsten-Bucking-Bar/productinfo/BBT41/#.WKyCze-7pUY

I used it on probably 98% of the rivets on my RV-10

Whomever is bucking the bottom skins, get them a tube sock with the toe cut out. This makes a great arm protector so they don't get nicks and scrapes from the lightening holes.
 
Same one but check prices

I used the same tungsten bar as above, but found it cheaper by searching the other VAF advertisers. I had to use a steel bar recently due to access, man I never want to go back to steel. I bet if you finally get a tungsten bar, after nearly completeing a build, you will probably want to build again. Just saying.
 
Tungsten! The only way to go! You will thank us that recommend them! I have the one shaped and sized like the on Bob linked to above. I don't think the seller I bought it from is around anymore.
 
I used the same one as Bob and John, on about 99% of all my rivets so far. I am soooooo glad I made the investment early on. It really makes bucking much easier than using the steel bars. I found that the steel tends to bounce more, which means you turn down the air more, which means you have to rivet for longer, which sometimes makes it more challenging to get a good shop head. Some may argue otherwise, but it takes a very special situation for me to put down my tungsten and pick up a steel bar. By the way, I have all the steel bars provided in the typical tool kit too, and you WILL need the special steel bar provided for use on the RV-10, when you do your elevators.
 
I have 2 tungsten bucking bars. Used them about 50/50. First is like everyone mentions above. Second is 1x1x2. I found the 1x1x2 easier to grip and keep the bar flat to the rivet tail.
 
I used this one: http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Tungsten-Bucking-Bar/productinfo/BBT41/#.WKyCze-7pUY

I used it on probably 98% of the rivets on my RV-10

Whomever is bucking the bottom skins, get them a tube sock with the toe cut out. This makes a great arm protector so they don't get nicks and scrapes from the lightening holes.

Thanks, Bob and everyone else. The guy with his arm in the lightening holes will likely be me, as I think bucking is more critical than gun operation (with a mushroom set). I will use the arm protector, and I will be the one to blame if the bar is dropped and dents a top skin from the inside :eek:

There is a technique I've heard of using safety wire to fold back the skins for access while riveting, and gradually let them uncurl as the sheet is tacked down. Anyone have pics or details?
 
And don't forget to protect the top skin with a thin pillow or something in case you drop the bar. :)
 
If you want tungsten, then the above mentioned is the way to go. If you want something you'll enjoy at the end of the day, might I suggest THE Bucking Bar ...

image1-480x640.png
 
I have two tungsten bars.
I refer to them as the Snickers Bar and the Brownie because they are about those sizes. I use the Snickers Bar 90% of the time.
I helped a friend build a set of T-6 wings and we used the Snickers Bar almost exclusively and on the few places I had to use an oddly shaped steel bar it was such a difference. Using Tungsten is so much easier.
 
Tungsten bar

Thanks, Bob and everyone else. The guy with his arm in the lightening holes will likely be me, as I think bucking is more critical than gun operation (with a mushroom set). I will use the arm protector, and I will be the one to blame if the bar is dropped and dents a top skin from the inside :eek:

There is a technique I've heard of using safety wire to fold back the skins for access while riveting, and gradually let them uncurl as the sheet is tacked down. Anyone have pics or details?

I used the same one too ever since I got it.
On the skins, I ran a string through the end hole and tethered it so it would stay open but not splayed open so far it would crease or dent. I made several wood wedges and used various thicknesses of popsicle sticks too. They were used so I could blindly use the bar and know it was oriented correctly. I also made a string lanyard to keep it from falling and denting a skin.
 
Glad I read this

I never thought of dropping the bar. With a mild arthritic prob I drop it all the time on the easy stuff.

Tungsten tungsten tungsten

I have several steel and a variety of angles on them which come in handy. Bought them all second hand.

But MY tungsten is FIRST choice every time
 
Favorite Old and New Bucking bars

I had a favorite steel bucking bar that I used between 28 and 20 years ago that I used to build my RV-6.

My favorite bucking bar for building my RV-8 is the same weight but Tungsten.



Here are the two bucking bars. IMHO, the shape you like in bucking bars is just like headsets and underwear. There is no right or wrong, just a preferred.
 
thanks, everyone.

Bought a 5/8 x 1 x 4 tungsten off a famous auction site from an RV7A builder.

Glen, I will make it up there eventually for a cold one!
 
There is a technique I've heard of using safety wire to fold back the skins for access while riveting, and gradually let them uncurl as the sheet is tacked down. Anyone have pics or details?

There are pictures on my weblog http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=mikrettig&project=803&category=7493&log=195608&row=36, but basically, I used string, tied through the lowest rivet hole and then wrapped the string around clecos farther up the structure in order to hold the skin open for me to buck the rivets in my wing. BTW, I did every one of them solo.. Have fun!
 
Hey guys,

This was a great thread on tungsten bucking bars. I think i am going to order one tomorrow. It looks like the majority of you are using 5/8" x 1" x 4" bar, but isn't the 4" length too much for this bar to fit squarely into rib flanges?
 
One end of the bar has a slight angle on it, so you can buck the rivets on one flange and still clear the flange below. Once you have two skins on, the bar is so dense that you can just hold it sideways and still buck rivets well. It's the one to get for sure, and the use of it will be very intuitive.
Tom.
 
I received my 4" x 1"x 0.625 bucking bar today and I was blown away what a difference this makes. Not only is it easier (and a lot more comfortable) to use but the quality of the shop heads is also improved. You get a satisfying feel of the rivet tail collapsing and forming the shop head.. I want to send my steel bars to the smelter now. Thanks everyone for the recommendation!

The 4" x 1"x 0.625 bar (referred to as the snickers bar) looks like it would work for most situations, but for $70 I just ordered another bar that is 2" x 1.5" x 0.625" (referred to at the brownie bar). I think the brownie bar will be better suited to get into rib flanges. Anyone else have one of these and if so, do you find it useful?

tbb_zpsdrwndx7y.jpg
 
Back
Top