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  #151  
Old 02-26-2019, 11:31 AM
One-y's Avatar
One-y One-y is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Black Forest, CO
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Default 8A Fuel Tank Sealant Question

Thanks for all the replies and help! I now have a couple of new wrinkles in my one brain cell.


One-y
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  #152  
Old 02-26-2019, 05:11 PM
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Location: Estes Park, CO
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Default Proseal

Quote:
Originally Posted by One-y View Post
Got a question for all you guys with strong magic. I'm about ready to do the ribs on the fuel tanks this week and have read Rick6A's and everyone else's fantastic posts on pro-seal. Great words/pics. The plan is to do all five ribs at once. What I can't quite figure out is should all the required sealant be mixed up at once or in batches? Also, is it better to apply the sealant to the upper portion of all the ribs/skin (after the nose area is sealed/clecoed) and then cleco them all at one time and then seal the lower portion of the ribs/skin and cleco all of them? I live in Co Springs so the garage will be in the high 50s / low 60s this week when all this takes place so the working time will be around 1+30-ish. Hopefully this makes sense as I still get a bit of a helmet fire on this stuff. Thanks for your support!
Jerry
I manage a small Google Group of Colorado RV Builders and Owners. If you would like to join, shoot me an e-mail from a G-mail account.
On the proseal side, I kept some fairly good notes. Refer to my blog.
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Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
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Donated 12/27/2018. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
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  #153  
Old 02-27-2019, 06:40 AM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
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Default

For a cheap Ďcaulking guní, I used horse syringes from Tractor Supply. I used the largest ones they had and it worked great for neatly applying proseal, even for putting a dab over the shop head of the driven rivet. You can keep filling and reusing the same syringe until the proseal begins to set up. Just pull the plunger out, refill the tube using a wide popsicle stick and keep going. Itís a cheap and easy solution.
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  #154  
Old 02-27-2019, 07:04 AM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
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Location: Pocahontas MS
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Another method is quart ziplock style freezer bags. Turn one inside out, weigh the two components (about a golf ball size portion) on the bag itself, turn it right side out & squeeze out the air, seal, and mix with a dowel or short piece of pvc pipe as a roller on the table. Roll the mix to one corner, snip the corner with a razor knife or scissors, and use it like a cake baster. You never need to worry about overcured mix combining with new mix, and supply of dispensers is as close as the nearest convenience store.

Charlie
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  #155  
Old 06-16-2019, 03:41 PM
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Location: Bay Village, OH
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Default Number of 3.5oz cartridges?

Due to life, I have an unopened quart thatís about to time out. Iím also having nightmares about the measuring mess.

Iím going to the 3.5 oz cartridges from here. After reading all of the posts, Iíve seen 1g/ linear inch, and that one tube does a back baffle job (6/7/8/9). What does it take to do a whole tank (8). It,s been asked a couple times but never directly answered from experience. I admit it, Iím feeling lazy. Thanks.
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  #156  
Old 06-16-2019, 03:51 PM
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I think I used three or four. Youíll need at least two for the ribs then another to do the back baffle. Keep the quart. You can mix up small batches and reuse the tubes. Youíll need some small jobs here and there anyway. When youíre done with the tubes, squeeze out as much of the remaining material as you can. Let cure for a few days and then take off the nozzle, pop out the ďstingerĒ, put the nozzle back on and pop out the cured bit with compressed air backwards into the nozzle.
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  #157  
Old 06-16-2019, 04:38 PM
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Location: Estes Park, CO
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Default Proseal

I used about 1-1/2 quarts on my 7a tanks. I think the tanks are the same if not really similar in size.
I have a very old quart and use it for small odd jobs. Still sets up just fine.
Keep a sample of every mix as a control. Date it and check before sticking a finger in the tank material.
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Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/27/2018. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #158  
Old 06-17-2019, 05:24 AM
JDA_BTR JDA_BTR is offline
 
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Location: Baton Rouge, LA
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Donít throw away the older proseal quarts. Keep it in a freezer and use it for the dozen little sealing jobs on the firewall and finish kits close outs. It may not be gas worthy but itís definitely good for that for a long time.
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  #159  
Old 06-17-2019, 02:27 PM
amaris amaris is offline
 
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Location: Santa Ynez, CA
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As with Larry, I used about 1.5Q on my 7A tanks too. I actually used slightly more, but still under 2Q and if I were more diligent with my use, could have wasted less.
I was mixing up 15g per rib first and then was able to get it down to 10g. I don't remember how much for the baffle. 60 or 70?
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  #160  
Old 06-17-2019, 06:15 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
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Location: Pocahontas MS
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After some instruction from a skilled 2 time builder, I used a single qt kit to seal both standard -7 tanks, plus two 3-bay leading edge aux tanks (around 13 gallons each).

FWIW, there is *very* little sealant needed for the interior ribs. A tiny 'donut' around each rivet on the faying surface, a match head size dot in the dimple, and a small 'cap' over the shop head is all that's needed to seal an interior rib.

Charlie
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