Confused about Countersink Names

I just received my first shipment from Cleaveland for my RV-10 (picking up the empennage kit tomorrow).
I'm having a little trouble figuring out if some of the parts are interchangeable or if they have different names. In particular the countersink cutters don't seem to correspond with my order.
I was supposed to receive the following sizes:
3/32" Rivet
1/8" Rivet
#12 pilot
#8 Screw
#6 Screw

I received
CC 40-#40 Pilot
CC 30-#30 Pilot
CC 6-#28 Pilot
CC 8-#19
CC 12-#12 Screw

I don't want to make an assumption and use the wrong size countersink, so I'd appreciate any help figuring out which is which.

You have what you ordered. Here is the break down:

3/32" Rivet = CC40-#40
1/8"Rivet = CC30-#30
#12 Pilot = CC12-#12
#8 Screw = CC8-#19
#6 Screw = CC6-#28

The # size refers to the number drill size for the countersink pilot. For example CC40-#40 refers to a Countersink Cutter (CC) with a #40 drill size pilot bit used for 3/32 rivets.

Good luck with your new project

Thanks

Thanks for the clarification.

Breaking the Stem

Be careful (when learning to use them) not to break off the stem (especially the #40) when you start using them.

The small one can be pretty fragile - ask me how I know.

YMMV

spares

HFS said:

Be careful (when learning to use them) not to break off the stem (especially the #40) when you start using them.

The small one can be pretty fragile - ask me how I know.

YMMV

Click to expand...

Yup, me too, and even after many holes. And if you don't have a spare (same goes for dimple dies) then it's forced down time till a replacement arrives. Now I keep a spare for the most critical tools... including also cleco pliers.

I'd also recommend buying at least three cages, if not one for every cutter. I got through my RV-6A build without but it was very tiresome changing the cutters all the time. It's very handy having at least the #30 and #40 cutters in their own cage and you can use colored paint to mark the cages to tell them apart.

Second this

flion said:

I'd also recommend buying at least three cages, if not one for every cutter. I got through my RV-6A build without but it was very tiresome changing the cutters all the time. It's very handy having at least the #30 and #40 cutters in their own cage and you can use colored paint to mark the cages to tell them apart.

Click to expand...

If I was to do it again, I would have 4 cages, 2 for the #30 and 2 for the #40. With one set up for flush rivets and one set up for 0.007" deeper for the bottom piece. I spent sooooo much time resetting cages. And if you get it wrong and go too deep, it is wrong forever.

And buy a 3/32" and 1/8" pilot counter sinks. A few times, I wanted to countersink before getting to final size. The 3/32" and 1/8" are the pilot hole sizes for the -3 and - 4 rivets.

Caages

flion said:

I'd also recommend buying at least three cages, if not one for every cutter. I got through my RV-6A build without but it was very tiresome changing the cutters all the time. It's very handy having at least the #30 and #40 cutters in their own cage and you can use colored paint to mark the cages to tell them apart.

Click to expand...

+1. I have three. Works pretty well. I still check depth every time before use so an adjustment is a minor inconvenience. Get two pieces of scrap at least 1/8" thick. Drill a pattern of #40 holes in one and #30 in the other. Thick scrap will allow you to test on both sides. Also, get pieces of every thickness on the plane. .015, .025, .032 and .040. Make a set of dimple tokens. Each dimple die size for each thickness. They are handy for getting parts to nest perfectly.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7hyZ-sKQmtreERULWRDekZYTTA