Click Bond nutplates are really nice, but super expensive. Do you have a source of supply for less than about $5 each?
An alternative if you don't want to squeeze rivets in composite is to make up a bunch of nut plates (plate nuts) that are pre-laminated into glass cloth patches that can be bonded in place. having the elastomeric locating/clamping feature is really nice, but not $5 nice.
Also I would reiterate Axel's comment/caution about contamination. Cut your cloth in a clean place with clean gloves. Keep everything you expect to bond together away from any wax. When you use wax as a release agent, allow it to dry/harden and wipe it with a dry cotton cloth before doing any layup on it.
A few other optional tricks people can try, and decide what they like to do:
1) you can just wet the surface of the part, lay a dry ply on it, wet it out, lay the next ply on it, wet that out, etc. Not really necessary to wet out each ply on a surface and then transfer it. With some weaves that are fairly stable, it can work fine to wet each ply separately on a surface; it can even give a neater job, although stickier handling. But with a very "drapey" bias twill cloth, it will lose any sense of the shape you want by the time you wet it, pick it up, and place it on your part. With those kinds of cloth, it really does help to position it on the part dry and wet it in place.
2) at the other extreme, for something like a flange or a corner tape, you can wet out all the plies, and stack them all on top of each on your wetting surface. Start with a peel ply, then the whole stack. That way, you can pick up the whole stack and position it on the part in one shot, using the peel ply as a membrane to help transfer and position the stack. When I do that, I often place a second dry peel ply on top after everything is in position, to help squeeze out excess resin and get the stack pushed tight into corners, etc. With the peel ply all saturated, it is almost like a quickie vacuum bag.
