Hey Guys,
I asked the inspector (Vic Syracuse) - who has built a couple of -10's - if he had any tricks for getting the seats out. He said he trimmed off the upper "ears" of the rear of the I rails so that after removing the seat position pin, the seat slides back, then tips up without hitting the flap tunnel covers. I did that today and it works like a charm.
Later, - Lew
Instead of trimming the rails, consider beveling the front of the plastic strips so that the seat will tip up for removal. (Where the interference occurs.)
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
Less intrusive...works great too. I just 45ved the nylon parts and it tips up and comes out fine.
Tim
All you need to do is remove the UMHW plastic tracks that go around the
aluminum seat rails and cut the fronts back about 3/8". That allows enough
to remove seats without cutting up the aluminum rails and taking the rear foot/flap kick plates out. It takes about 5 minutes per seat. There is no need to cut the rails.
Geoff
So how often are you guys pulling the front seats out that make having the seat mod (s) worthwhile?
I'm getting lots of opinions but it's really hard to tie you guys down to a definitive!!
So, top of the guides attached to the seat - remove some of the plastic and you get enough flex space to get the seats in - is that it?
So how often are you guys pulling the front seats out that make having the seat mod (s) worthwhile?
I did the mod that Scott referenced. Both seem to work just fine.
Way more than you think you would. It's easier to make one of the two mods instead of taking the flap rod cover off every time.
I did the mod that Scott referenced. Both seem to work just fine.
I just swear a bit while I jam the seat forward and aft until I dent the flap cover enough to pull the back of the seat up. I then bang the inside of the RV with the seal rails until I forcefully get it out the door. I walk down the wing and jump on the step that flexes with the added weight and finally open a beer.
I've only built 6 RV10's and have removed/installed seats MANY MANY times. I have never removed the flap covers or even the carpet. I must be missing something in regard to all of these 'seat mods' that are required ?
I'm getting lots of opinions but it's really hard to tie you guys down to a definitive!!
So, top of the guides attached to the seat - remove some of the plastic and you get enough flex space to get the seats in - is that it?
I did exactly that. Works great. Much easier and cleaner than shaving the rails IMO.
The other half of the seat mod is to attach nutplates on the bottom of the plate where the rear slide stop attaches. A little more work initially, but well worth it. To remove the seats post mod, instead of having to remove the four bolts of the T latch (which face the sidewall), you simply remove the two bolts of the rear stop that are upright and easy to access with a socket extension. With these two mods, removing the seats is a two minute job each. Remove the two rear stop bolts, pull the T handle, and the seat slides right out clean. Both mods are no brainers and should be incorporated into the Van's manual. They have both been discussed on the forums extensively in the past with details and pictures.
In my humble opinion, these seat mods, the Matco nosewheel/axle, and the Planearound door mod are the singular three most important/useful mods of any RV10 project. Friends don't let friends build without them. Van's has a terrific design, but all three of these items SHOULD BE DIRECTLY INCORPORATED INTO THE FACTORY PLANS. The icing on the cake, however, would have to be Geoff's overhead console.
It is the only one I can really recommend because it maintains the full integrity of the seat attachment to the track.
Trimming the aft portion off of the track has no influence because the position of the seat in flight (even for someone with very long legs) puts it no where near the aft end of the track.
I After scratching my head a bit and finally working it out, I didn't see the point of nutplates on the T-handle. You can't get a socket on the outside and if you lift the seat cushion, access to the nuts is easy.
I fitted the seats today.
After scratching my head a bit and finally working it out, I didn't see the point of nutplates on the T-handle. ....
Ron, Just do a search on Vans Airforce RV10 forum for "Looking for seat rail mod" just about everything known to man about RV10 front seat removal is there. Cheers from Western Australia
Y'all should do the "Stamper mod" while you're at it. Pull the two 1/4 inch flush bolts out of the rear stop, screw the rail in with a couple four screws and drill down through the seat cover. There's just enough room to miss the spar (don't plunge it) and install -4 nutplates in the seat cover. You'll never have to unbolt the T- handle again.