Van's Air Force
Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.
Remove Prop Spinner Fairing
- Thread starter fbrewer
- Start date
N941WR
Legacy Member
It looks like the back of the prop. If you flip it over, there should be six bolts, remove those and the prop extension and fairing will come right off.
rjcthree
Well Known Member
But yes....
Assuming it’s a Sensenich fixed and a Saber extension, you get out a large persuader, a large diameter drift, and some lumber to secure the prop, and you apply persuasion to the two dowels to separate the prop from the extension. It’s not as bad as it sounds. And if that’s a Sensenich spinner, don’t spin it without the dome above about 1600 RPM, or the backside fairing ears will Bend out and you’ll get to replace that too. Been there, done that.
I used a short handled four pound sledge, my 20oz dead blow didn’t budge it. The four pounder made it easy, and I really didn’t have to swing hard. Take your time, safety glasses and gloves and a helper are highly recommended.
You should mark it such that you reassemble the parts with the same relationship to each other. Also, be sure the mating surfaces are clean when reassembling or torquing and tracking may be off.
Assuming it’s a Sensenich fixed and a Saber extension, you get out a large persuader, a large diameter drift, and some lumber to secure the prop, and you apply persuasion to the two dowels to separate the prop from the extension. It’s not as bad as it sounds. And if that’s a Sensenich spinner, don’t spin it without the dome above about 1600 RPM, or the backside fairing ears will Bend out and you’ll get to replace that too. Been there, done that.
I used a short handled four pound sledge, my 20oz dead blow didn’t budge it. The four pounder made it easy, and I really didn’t have to swing hard. Take your time, safety glasses and gloves and a helper are highly recommended.
You should mark it such that you reassemble the parts with the same relationship to each other. Also, be sure the mating surfaces are clean when reassembling or torquing and tracking may be off.
Last edited:
rjcthree
Well Known Member
From memory...
From memory, the dowel pins are fixed to the extension, so pushing from the forward face of the prop back releases it. I can?t find the pictures, but the memory is pretty clear, especially when I was at the hanger this morning. I used 4x4s and some shims to support the prop at the blade roots. When you think about it, if the dowels were fixed in the prop, it would not mount to the face of the crankshaft, right? So they must be part of the extension.
From memory, the dowel pins are fixed to the extension, so pushing from the forward face of the prop back releases it. I can?t find the pictures, but the memory is pretty clear, especially when I was at the hanger this morning. I used 4x4s and some shims to support the prop at the blade roots. When you think about it, if the dowels were fixed in the prop, it would not mount to the face of the crankshaft, right? So they must be part of the extension.
http://www.sensenich.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Installation_Instructions_General_Metal_Instructions_1261679488.pdf
If you warm the prop hub with a heat gun a little or leave it outside in the sun for a while, the aluminium hub will expand making it easier to drive the steel dowels out.
If you warm the prop hub with a heat gun a little or leave it outside in the sun for a while, the aluminium hub will expand making it easier to drive the steel dowels out.
