What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Wing Walk Doubler Skins

jswareiv

Well Known Member
I know you don't dimple the ribs 1-4 where the wing walk doublers sit, but do you dimple the wing walk doubler "skins" to accept the dimple from the wing skin? If so, how does that dimple sit on the ribs? Thanks.
 
I know you don't dimple the ribs 1-4 where the wing walk doublers sit, but do you dimple the wing walk doubler "skins" to accept the dimple from the wing skin? If so, how does that dimple sit on the ribs? Thanks.

No. You'll machine countersink the skin and doubler together later.
 
No. You'll machine countersink the skin and doubler together later.

All of those holes? I am on step #3, pg 16-03. That is the old plans 14-03. I think they are talking about riveting the wing skin, doublers to the ribs at this point. Am I misreading it? Thanks KC.
 
Reread all of page 14-02. You cleco the doubler plates and the skins in place with no dimples Step-1. Next 2 steps are match drilling all the holes associated with the doubler plates (ribs 1-4 and main and rear spar). Then step 4 is where you machine counter sink all the holes associated with the doubler plates.

what have you dimpled so far?

Don't worry if you you go back to previous posts you will see that others have not even made it to this step before not clearly reading the plans. I dimpled the top of all the ribs, then installed. I believe that this is in the "Gotcha" Section in the goole spread sheet.

ken
 
All of those holes? I am on step #3, pg 16-03. That is the old plans 14-03. I think they are talking about riveting the wing skin, doublers to the ribs at this point. Am I misreading it? Thanks KC.

I read that to be machine countersink for the nutplates, so I match drilled all of those holes, separated, then dimpled the wing skins. Then I started to dimple one of the wing walk doublers, about 10 holes, then realized that it wasn't going to sit well on the ribs.

So I guess my choices are, 1. try to dimple the other side to flatten them out some and countersink (probably won't work too well), 2. Order new parts, including two skins, or 3. Sell the kit.
 
Question, not suggestion

Just out of curiosity, why can't all three (skin, doubler, ribs) be dimpled and stacked? Are you only supposed to stack 2 dimpled parts together for some structural reason?
 
I read that to be machine countersink for the nutplates, so I match drilled all of those holes, separated, then dimpled the wing skins. Then I started to dimple one of the wing walk doublers, about 10 holes, then realized that it wasn't going to sit well on the ribs.

So I guess my choices are, 1. try to dimple the other side to flatten them out some and countersink (probably won't work too well), 2. Order new parts, including two skins, or 3. Sell the kit.

Don't sell!!!!

I replied to a post on this same subject 7/9/13. Use the search feature and search for posts by PRE911, I have only a few posts.

I think you can undimple once then do it correct . Call vans to check first.
 
Last edited:
I dimpled the entire left wing. I dimpled the tops of all the ribs and attached them to the spar. My only solutions were to remove the ribs from the wing, un dimple, or dimple the doubler and skins. The former meant removing rivet from the spar, which I thought that I would do more damage than good. I asked a EAA tech advisor/counselor and he said it was OK to dimple and move on. He actually said he thought that dimpling was better and that the countersinking would not be as structurally as sound as dimpling.

I was advised to NOT Undimple by the same EAA guy. If you do your skins will look like ****. I believe that the skins will be covered there with the grippy black stuff, so you won't see it anyway. I did have to undimpled one hole in rib 1 to install a nut plate and you could tell that it was previously dimpled.

I think that you might have to undimple the skin/doubler and counter sink where the torque assemble is located. I assume that you already riveted that in place undimpled. If so, then you will have to undimple there on the skins and doubler plate and machine counter sink. I am pretty sure that I would not try to dimple two pieces of metal at the same time.

I forget what size rivets I used to rivet the wing walk section (ribs 1-4), but they were longer than called out due to the dimpling. I measured to determine the length. I don't think that I had to cut the rivets. I believe that I found one that worked. I did buy a rivet cutter and it is a great to to have. I used it where I find that the rivets in the plans are too long. I cut them to get them to the right size.

I am not the expert here. Just telling you what I was advised to do and what I did.

I would not sell.

Hopefully this was useful for you.
 
I dimpled the entire left wing. I dimpled the tops of all the ribs and attached them to the spar. My only solutions were to remove the ribs from the wing, un dimple, or dimple the doubler and skins. The former meant removing rivet from the spar, which I thought that I would do more damage than good. I asked a EAA tech advisor/counselor and he said it was OK to dimple and move on. He actually said he thought that dimpling was better and that the countersinking would not be as structurally as sound as dimpling.

I was advised to NOT Undimple by the same EAA guy. If you do your skins will look like ****. I believe that the skins will be covered there with the grippy black stuff, so you won't see it anyway. I did have to undimpled one hole in rib 1 to install a nut plate and you could tell that it was previously dimpled.

I think that you might have to undimple the skin/doubler and counter sink where the torque assemble is located. I assume that you already riveted that in place undimpled. If so, then you will have to undimple there on the skins and doubler plate and machine counter sink. I am pretty sure that I would not try to dimple two pieces of metal at the same time.

I forget what size rivets I used to rivet the wing walk section (ribs 1-4), but they were longer than called out due to the dimpling. I measured to determine the length. I don't think that I had to cut the rivets. I believe that I found one that worked. I did buy a rivet cutter and it is a great to to have. I used it where I find that the rivets in the plans are too long. I cut them to get them to the right size.

I am not the expert here. Just telling you what I was advised to do and what I did.

I would not sell.

Hopefully this was useful for you.

Thank you everyone for the advice and support. O.K., I'm back in the build. I went in and undimpled the skins where the wing walk doublers go. Then I countersunked them. They look great, you can't even tell that there was an error. I lessened the reverse dimple a little so as to try and get to a neutral position. The only thing I worry about is the strength of the wing where it will be riveted under the wing walk doublers. I read that part probably 5 times and never did pick up on the CS for all those holes. Thanks for pointing that part out KC and I also read the whole section looking for instruction. I am going to blame it on a pestering teenager that wants a new car.
 
Back
Top