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Appreciate E-Mag

flightlogic

Well Known Member
Patron
Changing plugs today on the 9A and I got a little too enthusiastic with torque. The plug adapter, for the P mag (automotive spark plugs) came out in two pieces rather than one. I called and Brad answered right away. He explained how little metal they have to work with dimensionally, in order to machine such a part. He then offered to send me a replacement at no charge to get me back in the air right away. What a great company !
I still have the broken adapter to remove from the cylinder head. Have put a sacrificial NGK plug back in the threads with some JB Weld. I hope tomorrow, after drying... it will all come out together and go right in the trash.
Just wanted to post my good experience with a vendor today on Van's.
Cheers to all and happy holidays.
 
extractor

Why won't an extractor work if epoxy doesn't.Should be able to get at NAPA or Harbor Freight.

BTW, also can't say enough good about Brad at Emag.
 
extractor

That will be my next step if the glue does not back it out in the morning...
Thanks for the TIP !!
 
A permanent fix for this is to purchase your adapters from Lightspeed. They have this part figured out.

Why would you install the same defective part?
 
You must use anti seize on both threads every time you R&R the plugs and adaptors. Some heat will loosen up the stuck parts and should make them easier to remove. Good heat gun or small propane torch will work. Be careful with a torch.
 
You must use anti seize on both threads every time you R&R the plugs and adaptors. Some heat will loosen up the stuck parts and should make them easier to remove. Good heat gun or small propane torch will work. Be careful with a torch.
You should never need to remove the adapters unless you are changing the cyl's.
 
different adapters

A permanent fix for this is to purchase your adapters from Lightspeed. They have this part figured out.

Why would you install the same defective part?
I'm just at about this point where I need to decide if I stay with the aviation plugs, or switch to auto plugs. Do you know what is different about the lightspeed adapters that makes them better?

They all look very similar to me:

https://www.google.com/search?q=automotive+spark+plug+adapter+18mm+to+14mm&tbm=isch

http://www.flyefii.com/products/accessories/spark-plug-adapters/

http://lightspeed-aero.com/Products/Sparkplugs.htm

http://www.emagair.com/pricing/
 
You should never need to remove the adapters unless you are changing the cyl's.

True. But the important part is when it comes to cylinders and threads, anti-seize is the rule, not the exception.

-----------

Also looking at all the links above, I'm not sure why any of these adapters would be brass. Makes perfect sense to me that this part should be steel to expand at the same rate as the sparkplug, not to mention thread durability. AL to brass to steel makes no sense to me. Maybe someone can explain that.
 
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I'm just at about this point where I need to decide if I stay with the aviation plugs, or switch to auto plugs. Do you know what is different about the lightspeed adapters that makes them better?

They all look very similar to me:

https://www.google.com/search?q=automotive+spark+plug+adapter+18mm+to+14mm&tbm=isch

http://www.flyefii.com/products/accessories/spark-plug-adapters/

http://lightspeed-aero.com/Products/Sparkplugs.htm

http://www.emagair.com/pricing/

SDS also offers plug adapters both for normal and long reach plugs.

I have used the Emag versions in the past as well as Robert's (EFII). Both without any failures.

However, to the point of this thread, yes, Brad and company are first class.
 
Brass is used to help prevent plug seizure, has decent tensile strength, good heat transfer, reasonable cost and good compatibility with the other material here. Not sure how/why a well designed one made of proper material would ever break, especially at the torque values used.
 
Brass is used to help prevent plug seizure, has decent tensile strength, good heat transfer, reasonable cost and good compatibility with the other material here. Not sure how/why a well designed one made of proper material would ever break, especially at the torque values used.
Probably something we need to make sure is done correctly. ;)
 
You should never need to remove the adapters unless you are changing the cyl's.

What? You remove plugs on a regular basis, why not the adapters?

If you follow the directions in the E-mag manual, you will not have an issue with their adapters.

Put anti-seize on both the plug and the adapter. Torque the plug, not the adapter to 18 ft-lbs, and that will set the torque on both.

When it is time to remove the plug, put the socket on the plug only. If the adapter comes out, grab a second socket and spate them. Reinstall them per the instructions.

In nine years of flying with P-mags the only time I have had an issue was when listening to someone who suggested I install them per the LightSpeed manual and torque the insert then install the plugs. I never tried that a second time.

From the E-mag manual:

E-mag Ignitions said:
Auto Spark Plug Adapters - Plug adapters permit the use of 14mm automotive type plugs with a ¾” reach. [Not tested with engines that use long-reach (13/16”) aircraft plugs.] First, install adapters with the supplied gasket on the spark plugs finger tight. Then, insert the combined assembly (plug with adapter) in the engine and tighten to 18 ft/lb (standard auto plug torque).

Note 1: If you install and torque the adapters separately, stresses will be focused at the adapter neck and can cause it to fail during installation.
 
You should never install and torque the adapter by itself. With a thin coat of anti-seize (brush it on with an acid brush. Do not fill the threads) on the adapter and the plug, screw the plug into the adapter. Screw the combination into the head and torque the plug and adapter to 20ft lbs. Then torque the adapter to 35 to 45ft lbs........

The adapter should never come out with the plug. The less you fiddle with the aluminum threads in the head, the less problems you will have with them. The adapter might have failed because it was under torqued for it's size by 20ft lbs. The adapter should be torqued same as the plug it replaced.

Don't attempt to remove the adapter without the plug installed.
 
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That is contrary to the instructions of the manufacturer (emag air)

Erich

Follow Emag's instructions and torque them together.

Emag 114 Installation Manual said:
Auto Spark Plug Adapters - Plug adapters permit the use of 14mm automotive type plugs. Use short reach (SR) adapters if your aviation plug callout is ?M? type (for example REMXXXX). Use long reach adapters (LR) if your aviation plug callout is ?B? type (REBXXXX). First, install adapters with the supplied gasket on the spark plugs finger tight. Then, insert the combined assembly (plug with adapter) in the engine and tighten to 18 ft/lb (standard auto plug torque) through the spark plug ONLY. Do not torque the adapter itself.

Note 1: If you install and torque the adapters separately, stresses will be focused at the adapter neck and can cause it to fail during installation.
 
Adapters

When I bought adapters I went with Roberts because they are Naval Brass and its very close to the same expansion rate as aluminum not sure about other companies.
Bob
 
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