Elevator tips

I?m puzzling how to finish the elevator fairings off. Seems like I should file back the lead so an end can be fabricated on the fiberglass fairing but that would be a lot of lead considering the end would have to bond in the cap as it is somehow.

I read about balancing after paint. How has anyone finished, flown a while, then Painted and then balanced with the fairings already done? Seems the new paint would be messed up.

I also read about laying up a fiberglass layer of flox/micro directly on the lead.

What?s the best and or easiest way?

I used a coarse file to shape it so it had a nice rounded shape, then filled it in with microbaloons an thin fiberglass. It's a learning experiance in itself, but it's not hard. Just lots of filing, filling and sanding. I Painted it and have been happy ever since. I just made sure it was slightly front heavy to accommodate for paint.

I think what I will do is sand it back a bit to make room for a cap and then finish the tip. It looks pretty easy to remove weight later by drilling small plugs out of the inboard side of the lead?

And put a nutplate on to be able to add a few washers if adding is somehow needed.

Since this thread is going and it's pretty relevant to my question, I'm going to glom on a bit here.

How are people dealing with the tip flange in the area of the counterweight? There's not enough clearance between the counterweight and the E-713 skin to fit the flange in there. Not sure if I should try to make room in there for the flange (by removing and trimming the weight a bit) or just remove the tip flange in the area where it interferes (see attached photo).

If memory serves, the prints tell you to trim the fairing.

Note - on my first 8A I spent a lot of time trimming the weights for balance. Then spent a lot more time adding weight back after paint - along with the pain to fix the brand new paint job.

My recommendation - install the weights as is, trim only as needed to fit. Even if they are slightly heavy after paint this is in the grass.

I do add a bid of glass over the pop rivets, then micro to make it all smooth. This is a preventive measure to keep the prop rivet heads from screwing up the paint.

Carl

N546RV said:

Since this thread is going and it's pretty relevant to my question, I'm going to glom on a bit here.

How are people dealing with the tip flange in the area of the counterweight? There's not enough clearance between the counterweight and the E-713 skin to fit the flange in there. Not sure if I should try to make room in there for the flange (by removing and trimming the weight a bit) or just remove the tip flange in the area where it interferes (see attached photo).

Click to expand...

I just got done doing this the plans do call for trimming the fiberglass flange in the area of the counterweight.

Yup, there it is, right in plain sight. It'd probably be depressing to find out how many questions I've asked here whose answer was right in front of my face...

Thanks! All my fiberglass supplies came in yesterday, I think it's about time to get messy.