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  #31  
Old 07-08-2019, 09:45 AM
thorskip thorskip is offline
 
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Another good idea. Thanks for that Scott. You’re right, I’d like some resistance. That’s the idea of knowing it’s shut, but I’ll try both of these suggestions. This puts me on the right track. Thanks
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  #32  
Old 07-08-2019, 10:06 AM
DHeal DHeal is offline
 
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Another variable is whether or not the original builder (or subsequent owners) applied non-OEM weather-stripping between the canopy's aft undersurface and the corresponding mating surface of the rollbar. Such added weather-stripping may cause the stock latch to be difficult to engage/disengage. It is not difficult to adjust the latch to compensate for this added thickness of weather-stripping.
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  #33  
Old 07-08-2019, 02:34 PM
thorskip thorskip is offline
 
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Thanks David. I assume what you mean by adjusting the latch you mean one or both of the previous suggestions, reduce shims or shave the nylon latch plate?
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  #34  
Old 07-08-2019, 03:44 PM
DHeal DHeal is offline
 
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Yes -- IMHO adjusting the shim is preferred. If you choose to shave the nylon plate be sure that sufficient material remains to adequately capture and retain the metal latch arm. On my RV-12 I find that pulling down on the latch handle while turning it helps to slide the metal arm up the nylon slope into the latched detent position.
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EAA #23982 (circa 1965) - EAA Technical Counselor and Flight Advisor; CFI - A&I
RV-12 E-LSA #120496 (SV w/ AP and ADS-B 2020) - N124DH flying since March 2014 - 910+ hours (as of May 2020)!
VAF donation through June 2020.

Last edited by DHeal : 07-08-2019 at 03:46 PM.
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  #35  
Old 07-08-2019, 04:26 PM
thorskip thorskip is offline
 
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Thanks again David
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  #36  
Old 07-08-2019, 06:04 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHeal View Post
Yes -- IMHO adjusting the shim is preferred. If you choose to shave the nylon plate be sure that sufficient material remains to adequately capture and retain the metal latch arm. On my RV-12 I find that pulling down on the latch handle while turning it helps to slide the metal arm up the nylon slope into the latched detent position.
Just to clarify....
My recommendation isn't to shave the block thinner at the detente step. It is to use a blade and cut a 45 degree bevel so that the edge of the step isn't so sharp.
The reason the handle can be hard to open is because the sharp edge of the handle gets caught on the sharp corner of the step. If you relieve the sharpness of the step slightly it can have a major influence on how difficult it is to open.

A better idea is to upgrade to the new handle / latch design
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  #37  
Old 07-09-2019, 06:42 AM
thorskip thorskip is offline
 
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Thanks again Scott. I understand what you’re saying about the sharp edge because, as you suggest, that is the problem. Also I’d like to learn more about the new handle/latch design and how easy it would be to change. So far, I haven’t been able to find any closeups to see exactly how it’s different. I wonder if others have any experience in making that change.
Norm
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  #38  
Old 07-09-2019, 08:29 AM
Mich48041 Mich48041 is offline
 
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The new canopy latch design locks the canopy in the open position so that the canopy can not open more than a few inches. Somewhere in these forums is a link to a video showing the wind catching an open canopy and slamming it against the propeller. After watching that video, you will want to order the new canopy latch.
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  #39  
Old 07-09-2019, 08:36 AM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mich48041 View Post
The new canopy latch design locks the canopy in the open position so that the canopy can not open more than a few inches. Somewhere in these forums is a link to a video showing the wind catching an open canopy and slamming it against the propeller. After watching that video, you will want to order the new canopy latch.
The legacy latch has an add-on catch available that will prevent a propped open canopy from being blown open.

A photo of the new latch design can be viewed HERE
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Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.

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  #40  
Old 07-09-2019, 10:46 AM
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Tony_T Tony_T is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thorskip View Post
Hi all,
Iíve had a rv8 for years and in the last couple weeks purchased a 12 with less than 100 hrs. I flew it many times with the canopy latch not fully engaged, not realizing it needed to go over the nylon latch. When closed, it looks just like the picture shown. It takes considerable effort to get it closed correctly, and even more, unreasonable amount, to get it back out of the nylon piece to open. It takes both hands to unlatch. My question, is this right and how or what can be done to loosen up or make this easier? The canopy latched is one safety issue, but getting out could be another. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by thorskip View Post
Thanks again Scott. I understand what youíre saying about the sharp edge because, as you suggest, that is the problem. Also Iíd like to learn more about the new handle/latch design and how easy it would be to change. So far, I havenít been able to find any closeups to see exactly how itís different. I wonder if others have any experience in making that change.
Norm
As Scott and others have said, it is possible to adjust the latch you have but even after having done that mine was still too difficult to get open in a possible emergency. I used to carry a short piece of plastic pipe for leverage just in case. Since then I have installed the new latch kit and can answer your question regarding making that change on an older canopy.

First there is a distinction between the latch and the catch. Your questions are regarding the latch. The catch came later to help prevent the canopy from being blown open when the handle was unlatched and resting up on the roll bar.

This is the legacy latch and catch like you have. You might not have the catch as it came a bit later than 2013, I think.


Here are a couple more pics of the new latch and catch. The parts to retro fit this upgrade are available as a kit from Van's for $125 and the reference is notification N17-12-08; a 14 page set of instructions to install the kit.


To install this upgrade, I would describe the level of difficulty as at least a 7 or 8 on a scale of 10. Maybe less if you are an experienced builder with all the tools, more if you have not built anything similar.
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