Interference between Canopy Latch and Flap Motor Housing

When I put the bushing blocks on the canopy latch (long bar with the fingers on it that spans the cockpit behind the seats) and try to place it up against the 705 bulkhead, I get interference from the flap motor housing.

I'm sure I'm not the only one that has experienced this (hope?). How have you all resolved this? Would it be OK to put a spacer between the bushing blocks and the bulkhead, which would move the latch forward? How much room do I have here before I would hit the installed seat pan when it is in its most aft position? Is there a better solution?

macrafic said:

When I put the bushing blocks on the canopy latch (long bar with the fingers on it that spans the cockpit behind the seats) and try to place it up against the 705 bulkhead, I get interference from the flap motor housing.

I'm sure I'm not the only one that has experienced this (hope?). How have you all resolved this? Would it be OK to put a spacer between the bushing blocks and the bulkhead, which would move the latch forward? How much room do I have here before I would hit the installed seat pan when it is in its most aft position? Is there a better solution?

Click to expand...

PS. Looks like I need 1/8" shim/spacer on each side. Will this amount allow the latch fingers to insert into the 705 bulkhead slots far enough?

The plans have you using regular rivets at the top of the flap housing. On my -9A they would rub on the tip up latch weldment tube. I replaced the regular rivets with flush rivets and problem solved. It it still very tight under the tube, so I put some thin UHMW tape on the flap housing to keep the tube from rubbing.



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Bruce, I had already thought of that and had done as you suggest. Still not enough clearance. It seems that the only option I have is to use some shims to move the latch forward. I am not sure how that changes the ability of the fingers to reach the "over center" position for a good positive lock on the canopy.

Has anybody else used shims? If so, how large did you go? I think I need a minimum of 1/8" on both sides to clear the flap housing, even with the flush rivets.

On my 6, I needed a 1/4" to clear these parts. I made a spacer to move the flap motor bracing aft at the top. I also have an 1/8" spacer on each bushing (this also gave me the benefit on not cutting the vertical bulkhead). You really need to get your latches installed with the canopy closed. You can then see how the fingers on the latch mechanism form a "catch" at the very end of travel. Once fully assembled, you will be able to see if you can accomodate the spacers and still have the latch perform as designed. From my recollection, a small spacer will have minimal impact. However, each canopy is a bit different in dimension.

Larry