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  #21  
Old 04-05-2016, 05:03 PM
RV7ForMe RV7ForMe is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Europe
Posts: 484
Arrow #11

I DID IT!

I placed an order and received some big boxes!


After Inventorying I put everything away. All the parts slide right under my sofa.


The skins fit nicely on top of my furniture for now...


All of the hardware is organized. (If you like the label file click here)
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  #22  
Old 04-05-2016, 05:25 PM
AndyRV7's Avatar
AndyRV7 AndyRV7 is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Hudson County, NJ
Posts: 1,055
Default

Very nice stuff. Good luck with the build!!
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  #23  
Old 04-05-2016, 05:59 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,420
Default Congratulations

Congratulations. Build on!
Just a tiny tip...
Before you roll the leading edge, use a tool to break the edge of the layer on top.
Vans manual has a home made tool or you can buy one.
Basically it bends the edge just a little so when the two parts are riveted, the top edge lays flat instead of lifting.
I also break edges on overlapping skins.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/27/2018. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #24  
Old 04-06-2016, 04:54 AM
RV7ForMe RV7ForMe is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Europe
Posts: 484
Arrow #12

Quote:
Originally Posted by wirejock View Post
Just a tiny tip...
Before you roll the leading edge, use a tool to break the edge of the layer on top.
Vans manual has a home made tool or you can buy one.
Basically it bends the edge just a little so when the two parts are riveted, the top edge lays flat instead of lifting.
I also break edges on overlapping skins.
Thanks Larry for all of your help.
I am starting with the VS. So no rolling edges there but I will keep that in mind once I get to that step.

Last edited by RV7ForMe : 04-06-2016 at 05:04 AM.
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  #25  
Old 04-06-2016, 11:41 AM
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ppilotmike ppilotmike is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1,950
Default It's a good tip.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RV7ForMe View Post
Thanks Larry for all of your help.
I am starting with the VS. So no rolling edges there but I will keep that in mind once I get to that step.
Larry is talking about breaking the edge of the aluminum sheet where 2 sheets come together. The "edge rolling" tool he is talking about puts a slight bend in the edge of one sheet, so that when you rivet the sheet down, the edge stays "down" and flush. Congrats on getting started! Build on..
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  #26  
Old 10-22-2016, 03:57 AM
RV7ForMe RV7ForMe is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Europe
Posts: 484
Arrow #13

So....Itís been quite a while since I last posted an update. Well, that is because I made no progress at all. I had originally planned to work on the empennage in my apartment but for totally unrelated reasons I had to move out. My new place is not adequate for building airplanes in the living room. My neighbors would kill me.

So I put everything in storage and started looking for a new place to set up shop. I finally found a barn about 1 mile away with plenty of space to fit the whole airplane. For now, I will be sharing this space with a buddy of mine too keep the cost down plus I wonít need all of the space for the empennage anyway.

I have been setting up show for the past 2 weeks and today I FINALLY started working on the VS. Actually I spend the better part of 10 hours in the shop.

On a side note, my compressor I had bought about 9 months unfortunately is going back under warranty because of an electrical issue causing it to not start reliably. I really have no luck with compressors. (So MAD!)

Today I worked on the VS. I followed the plans with fluting, deburring, final size drilling, dimpling, countersinking... It took me a while to get the hang of the different deburring methods and the ScotchBrite wheel. I had to remove the second wheel because it was getting in the way the whole time. Much better now.


I think I made good progress for the first day. I am now ready to prime. But I will have to wait for my compressor to come back. If I wasnít priming I could start riveting the VS together tomorrow.


While countersinking the VS-808-PP, I noticed that my countersink cage leaves marks on the aluminum.


I didnít like that so I used some tape to prevent that from happening. Like this. Works great, but I did have to fine tune my settings on the cage to account for the tape.


I didnít notice this until I was ready to go home and took of my glovesÖFirst BLOOD!
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  #27  
Old 11-22-2016, 07:20 AM
RV7ForMe RV7ForMe is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Europe
Posts: 484
Arrow #14

I have found a few video links that I found usefull. I will keep updating them here...

Coatings/ Prep Metal before painting

Dimple with the C-frame Sounds

Close Quarters Dimple Die Set


Alumiprep / Alodine

Indirect Riveting Technique

I also have some links to things I may want or need in the future... I assume this will change over time:

Rib Bending tool

Dynon Canopy Alert
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Cessna Rocket 210HP - Best dang 172 Ever made! (sold)

Last edited by RV7ForMe : 01-09-2017 at 06:48 AM.
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  #28  
Old 12-21-2016, 05:30 PM
RV7ForMe RV7ForMe is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Europe
Posts: 484
Arrow #15

Prime War !!!

I have been moving at snail speed... I am enjoying the process but I wish I was getting things done a little quicker.

"Don't be afraid of going slow, just be afraid of standing still"

I started with the VS, then moved to the HS and on to the Rudder. However I never set any rivets because I was busy "Almost done with my own little prime war" witch somehow landed me the front page How cool is that?



I kind of posted that, in the hope I would figure out how well my chosen primer compares to AKZO or other products. I received a great list of alternative products and some good ideas how to apply them. But for now I have decided to put down my weapons and end my war.

After all of the time and money spend on this topic I can honestly say if I didn't feel this crazy need to prime, I must suggest to just skip it altogether. It comes up to be a significant increase in money spend and a ridiculous amount of time added to the build time. So in case you are still undecided. Do yourself a favor and just build it without fighting this war. In the end I was looking for a product that has been widely used by others with positive feedback. This is because as soon as you choose any of the local auto paints available your project becomes the test project and you wont find out how well it works until it is to late to change... I think that is why AKZO 486-12-8 is so popular. It also helps that Boeing is using it. I tried the rattle can by Dupi color and a water based primer by Stewart Systems. I decided against them.

The primer of my choice is green! I really wanted it to be green.
The primer of my choice contains chromates to act as corrosion protection.
The primer of my choice is a 2K Epoxy based product used by Airbus and the dutch military.
The primer of my choice is fluid resistant. The usual suspects such as AVGAS.
The primer of my choice unfortunately is not solvent resistant. Meaning Acetone and some rubbing will take it off.

The thing that convinced me is that I found it extremely easy to spray with good looking results.

I use a cheap small HVLP gun with a 1mm tip (Yes, I like it better than the 1.3mm I also have. Easier to clean as well)
I use a scale and mix 10:3 and 10% thinner by weight. I also created a spreadsheet to do the math for me. I just have to plug in what the total amount of paint that I want to mix is, and it does the rest for me. Download here.
I use glass cups that weight exactly 200g to do the mixing and a paint filter before it goes into the gun.

I also spend a significant amount of time reading up on protecting my health.
According to the MSDS of AKZO one would need a minimum of a A3P3 respirator mask. I couldn't even find that on the local hardware store or on amazon...This stuff is incredibly nasty. My primer only calls for a A1P1 mask even thought it does say it is carcinogenic. I decided to wear a full body anti static suit and a A2P3 mask for added protection made by 3M. I also did some test on a few glove types to see what will withstand these chemicals best. The hospital gloves we have at school are not good for this... They will break after a few drops of thinner or acetone.

All in all I happy with this product for now. I will use it until I run out and reconsider then. I have enough for the whole Empennage kit.

Here are some pictures.

I sprayed a tac coat to promote adheason

After 5 minutes I sprayed one even coat of the primer. Goes on smooth. No runs. No fuzz.

After it dried




Now that I have this figured out things can finally move on. I really want to RIVET some parts together. Happy Holidays to all of you still reading. Hopefully I can get started on this over the holidays.
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RV7-A (N137MX Reserved) - Wings Started...
RV7-A - Rebuild Done - Flying!
Cessna Rocket 210HP - Best dang 172 Ever made! (sold)

Last edited by RV7ForMe : 12-27-2016 at 04:41 PM.
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  #29  
Old 12-27-2016, 04:58 PM
RV7ForMe RV7ForMe is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Europe
Posts: 484
Arrow #16

Well look at that... Finally my First rivet is set

I have to admit that I choose to use my hand squeezer on some reinforcement plates and nut plates of the rudder because I thought these would be the easiest. I found out that I suck with the squeezer. Almost all of them bend over a little bit. Later one I switches to some flush rivets on the skin of the VS. those went in very nicely I think. After setting 6 or so of those I called it a night. I wanted to end on a good note.


I thought these would be very easy...They weren't...

This was the setup I had going.

These are officially my first two rivets of my RV!

I stopped after that... I am not too pleased with the results but I have to investigate if these are "ok" and just cosmetic or if they have to come out.

They look perfect from this side...

These were much easier... Maybe I got lucky but I stopped after these.

From the inside. I would like to see the skin closer to the spar but not sure what to do about it. Maybe paint or dust in between there...

- - -

I choose to drill those rivets out and do them again with the rivet gun.
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RV7-A (N137MX Reserved) - Wings Started...
RV7-A - Rebuild Done - Flying!
Cessna Rocket 210HP - Best dang 172 Ever made! (sold)

Last edited by RV7ForMe : 12-29-2016 at 11:55 AM.
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  #30  
Old 01-03-2017, 12:31 PM
RV7ForMe RV7ForMe is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Europe
Posts: 484
Arrow #17

This was New Years Eve. I spend about 2 hours in the shop just for fun. I like the rivet gun...

I have been labeling my parts on the sides that are going to lay against each other. So in theory no labels will be visible once I am done. I really like the look of the primed parts. Glad my prime war is over.


I started riveting the rudder skeleton. I had to drill the first rivet out and then I realized that the R-904 bottom rib can be left out while riveting the rest on place and then slid back in. Much easier that way!


I do have a bit of question here. The plans call for 4-7 rivets here. But according to my rivet checker 4-8 would be better. Unfortunately my kit only came with like 10 of the 4-8 ones. I used 2 on the nut plate since those were seriously short. I know the plans say that VANS sometimes uses shorter rivets and they are "Ok" but here it would have been fine to use the longer ones.


Good time to end the year on a few good looking rivets
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