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Removing wing tank inner end rib?

blaplante

Well Known Member
Sorry if this has been answered before but my search didn't uncover it.

My RV6a (with factory QB wing tanks) is leaking again around the nose of the inboard (sender end), again. This is at least the 2nd time I'll be repairing it. Last time I went in via the sender hole and did my best to seal from the inside.

This time, I want to fix this for good. My plan is to drill out all the T-403 end rib rivets, remove the end plate, drill out the rivets on the T-410 nose reinforcement (some leaks there too), re-proseal everything and put it back together.

My question - has anyone tackled this? How did you actually get the end rib/plate off? I'm assuming it is going to be problematic as its glued in by the existing proseal. Knife? Fishing line? Can it be done without destroying the T-403?

Thanks again!
 
I wouldn't remove that rib.......

Sorry if this has been answered before but my search didn't uncover it.
My RV6a (with factory QB wing tanks) is leaking again around the nose of the inboard (sender end), again. This is at least the 2nd time I'll be repairing it. Last time I went in via the sender hole and did my best to seal from the inside.
This time, I want to fix this for good. My plan is to drill out all the T-403 end rib rivets, remove the end plate, drill out the rivets on the T-410 nose reinforcement (some leaks there too), re-proseal everything and put it back together.
My question - has anyone tackled this? How did you actually get the end rib/plate off? I'm assuming it is going to be problematic as its glued in by the existing proseal. Knife? Fishing line? Can it be done without destroying the T-403?
Thanks again!
My suggestion would be to cut a 4" inspection hole in the rear baffle and work your repair through it. With this hole and the cover plate that holds the gauge sender, you will have plenty of room to work and see what you are doing.
 
What Mel said; removing the entire rib would likely cause more problems that it solves.

And you can go bigger than a 4" hole in the back baffle, if you're...creative. I had repeated leaks at the nose reinforcement angle on my -4, so I finally cut the back baffle to access (and see) better. If you make a cover panel that will just fit vertically (clearing the radius-ed bends in the baffle) and is the same width as the space between the rib on one side and the rib back flange on the other side, you can then cut the baffle ~1" smaller on all sides, to leave a flange for re-attachment. Obviously takes more fasteners when re-attaching, but creates a fairly nice opening to work & see through.

Before you do the cut, you might want to check this: My repeated leaks around the edges of the reinforcement angle resisted multiple re-sealing efforts, even after cutting the access panel. I finally realized that the leak was past one of the angle attach rivets *inside* the tank, and then between the rib/angle out to the edge of the angle on the outside. It looked like a leak on the flange, but was actually near the 'middle' of the rib.

Charlie
 
Another vote for the 2nd access hole. Vans sells a repair kit for < $10 to cover the hole and is already pre-punched and includes the sealed pop rivets.
 
Mel's right on this one, removing the entire rib is more trouble than it's worth. Come in through the rear baffle.
 
On the other hand, I did remove the end rib on my RV-14 tank when the rib holding one bearing for the aileron pushrod got damaged. I drilled out all of the Rivets, then, cut out the end rib with a Dremel cut-off wheel just inside of the rib flange. Using a heat gun, I was then able to soften the proseal and peel off the remaining flange. A lot of scraping and clean-up with the proseal dissolving goo Van?s sells, before I reapplied proseal and reriveted the parts I removed (all new, of course). No leaks, so far. PITA, but if you are careful, it is doable. I had no alternative, but if I were in your position, I would just cut an access hole in the back of the tank. :rolleyes:
 
OK - how about using Polygone?

OK - if I access the end rib via the back baffle (sounds familiar, I think I might have gone this way the 2nd time) - what do you all think of using Polygone to remove the accumulated pile of proseal - even though I'll leave the end rib/plate in place?

I'm hoping to get down to a nice clean and smooth surface which will make reapplication easier.
 
It's been a while since I've used Polygone, but if I remember correctly, it's a little difficult to remove. Washing it works for the final residue, or lacquer thinner... don't really remember. But I'd be cautious of leaving any in there. That would not be good.

The stuff has the consistency of paint remover and acts a lot like it, too,

Dave
 
Best to manually remove as much sealant as you can before applying Polygone, saves the big mess, & actually speeds the process.
 
As others have said, remove as much as possible mechanically with plastic ?razor blade? scrapers from Spruce and phenolic scrapers from The Yard. Then, polygone goo, followed by eOx Aircraft Cleaner RTU to remove the polygone goo. A final clean-up with scotchbrite. It is possible to remove most of the proseal residue, but it takes time. Good luck.
 
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