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  #11  
Old 10-09-2014, 09:49 PM
Gandalf Gandalf is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Medford, OR
Posts: 258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txaviator View Post
I started by using some that were paper-based. When trying to remove them, they tear and it is MUCH harder to remove them
txaviator... I am setting up even now to seal the rivet heads. My current plan is to use blue masking tape with holes punched out, and it sounds like I should perhaps add plastic hole reinforcements to my paper tape, correct?

Also, what did you do with the flush rivet heads. Perhaps just fill in the holes?

Jeff
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  #12  
Old 10-15-2014, 10:14 PM
gossend gossend is offline
 
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Location: Georgetown, Texas
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Default Masking rivet heads??

You guys are shaming me with all this prettiness. Heck, I just swabbed each one with a Q-tip and pro-seal. A little ugly, but functional...just like my tank!
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  #13  
Old 10-16-2014, 03:35 PM
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txaviator txaviator is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Arlington, TX (DFW)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gandalf View Post
txaviator... I am setting up even now to seal the rivet heads. My current plan is to use blue masking tape with holes punched out, and it sounds like I should perhaps add plastic hole reinforcements to my paper tape, correct?

Also, what did you do with the flush rivet heads. Perhaps just fill in the holes?

Jeff
Sorry for the delayed response. I'm so busy at work these days that I really don't have a chance to check-in here very often.

The blue tape with holes should work just fine, without the reinforcements! The plastic hole reinforcements are a bit difficult to find, with the paper versions being the norm. But the plastic ones work great IF you can easily find them!

It worked great on my RV-12 build, and yes, on the flush rivets, I filled the holes but also the area surrounding the rivet. It makes everything look uniform.

* DISCLAIMER: my process worked great with the circular reinforcements....but I stole the idea from DancesWithBassets
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  #14  
Old 10-28-2014, 02:27 PM
Gandalf Gandalf is offline
 
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The blue tape with holes should work just fine, without the reinforcements!
Hi Gary... Yup. I removed the blue tape as I worked and it worked fine.




Thanks,
Jeff
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  #15  
Old 10-28-2014, 10:19 PM
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txaviator txaviator is offline
 
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Hi Gary... Yup. I removed the blue tape as I worked and it worked fine.




Thanks,
Jeff
That's FANTASTIC! Glad it worked out well for you!
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Arlington, TX

RV-12 Built / Sold / Flying
Currently Flying: Cessna Skyhawk 172
Rebuilding a true barn find J-3 Cub
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  #16  
Old 03-02-2016, 02:07 PM
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magiccarpet magiccarpet is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Switzerland, Europe
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Default sealing rivet heads

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gandalf View Post
My current plan is to use blue masking tape with holes punched out
I got inspired by that idea.
hope it'll work out well without messing much with proseal beyond the masks.
I use a generic electrical insulation tape



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  #17  
Old 07-01-2017, 07:15 AM
Tacco Tacco is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: White Salmon, WA
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Anything disadvantage to just sealing from the cockpit side? Sure would make it easier to clean the engine side of the firewall. Would look better too.
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  #18  
Old 07-01-2017, 12:09 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Location: 08A
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Anything disadvantage to just sealing from the cockpit side? Sure would make it easier to clean the engine side of the firewall. Would look better too.
Yeah. If the firewall ever has to deal with a fire, the sealant on the inside will probably ignite. Think how much you will enjoy polysulfide sealant smoke.
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  #19  
Old 07-01-2017, 08:48 PM
Mich48041 Mich48041 is offline
 
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Location: Riley TWP MI
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Fuel tank sealant is flammable. I set a sample on fire with a propane torch. When the torch was removed, the sealant kept on burning and kept on giving off obnoxious smoke.
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  #20  
Old 07-09-2017, 01:08 PM
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rongawer rongawer is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Brentwood, CA
Posts: 165
Default Sealant

Instead of tank sealant, or Pro-Seal, a better sealant is BioTherm 100. It's not flammable and hardens with a paintable finish and will withstand 2000ºF, about 125º more than burning Avgas.

Another brand line is RectorSeal, but it's made by the same manufacturer as BioTherm and has the same functionality, just branded differently for different industries.

Both are available online, although I got a tube with my heater bypass valve from www.planeinnovations.com.

Also, the Avery poly-vinyl hole reinforcements are about $1.50 for 200 on Amazon.com...work great.
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Ron Gawer

- RV-12 N975G, SN 120840, Build in progress...finally on the finishing kit, so, something like 90% done and 90% left to go.
- 1975 B58 Baron, N1975G (a bottomless money pit that makes building an RV look like lunch money, but it's a great airplane, hauls the family and my wife likes two engines...go figure)
- 1961 A33 Debonair, N433JC (R.I.P.)
- RV7A; didn't finish it and donated to kid's club
- Zenith CH601XL; flying somewhere in Louisiana https://youtu.be/wa_Y_A_rP_8

Last edited by rongawer : 07-09-2017 at 01:10 PM.
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