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  #11  
Old 07-16-2017, 07:30 AM
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Captain_John Captain_John is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Thermos View Post
Not sure what you mean...?
Dave, I think he is suggesting that the oil cooler is the source of the drips?

Anywhooo... all these are fine suggestions. I have never found anything that removes the offending product completely.

If you coat the inside of the cowling with primer, it many not seep in so deeply... or it will give you another layer for the stain to seep through. The porosity of the primer still will allow penetration. At least you could remove the primer and have less of a stain???

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  #12  
Old 07-16-2017, 07:59 AM
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snopercod snopercod is online now
 
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Default prep-sol

Another solvent that works better than Acetone is Prep-Sol Wax and Silicone Remover. Auto body paint stores carry that. Once again, you flood the area to lift out the grease and then immediately wipe the stuff off with a clean, dry rag.
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The basic idea behind these cleaners is simple, they are designed to lift the contaminant up off the surface long enough for you to wipe it away. The surface MUST stay wet and HOLD those contaminants up in the cleaner for you to wipe off with a clean/dry rag. That is mistake most make, they let it dry and the contaminant ends up laying right back on the surface.
Clean several times to remove heavy contamination. Also, You clean first, then sand. Otherwise you will just sand the contaminants down into the weave of the fiberglass and get a weak bond with the epoxy.
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  #13  
Old 07-16-2017, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by snopercod View Post
Another solvent that works better than Acetone is Prep-Sol Wax and Silicone Remover. Auto body paint stores carry that. Once again, you flood the area to lift out the grease and then immediately wipe the stuff off with a clean, dry rag. Clean several times to remove heavy contamination. Also, You clean first, then sand. Otherwise you will just sand the contaminants down into the weave of the fiberglass and get a weak bond with the epoxy.
All great advice! LIFT contamination to REMOVE it.

If you do prime and you get contamination on the primer, clean, wash and wet sand prior to re-coating is the route I would travel.

CJ
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  #14  
Old 07-16-2017, 03:42 PM
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Ditto the k2r. It did the job for me and was pretty easy to use.
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  #15  
Old 07-17-2017, 01:00 PM
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Default Washer and dryer...

After I smeared any and all leftover epoxy from any fiberglass work on the inside of my cowling, I applied 2 good coats of rattle-can white epoxy appliance paint. Rock-hard and cleans easily.
9 months, 100 hours...no blistering, peeling or scorch marks.
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