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  #1  
Old 07-02-2017, 12:54 PM
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Plummit Plummit is offline
 
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Default Aarrrg!

Just finished the annual and BFR which ran out the same month. Everything worked normally yesterday. Today the left-hand door wouldn't latch properly. The interior handle goes to about a 45 degree angle then stops. This has the basic 2-pin lock but it also has the "I fly RV-10" flush billet handles on the exterior. Something is jamming the mechanism inside the door (which is sealed). Before I start cutting, has anyone experience this?

~Marc
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  #2  
Old 07-02-2017, 03:46 PM
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It's probably the clevis pin that holds the geared rod to the pin. That can sometimes catch on the fiberglass. Try that first. If that's not it, pull the clevis pin on the front and the back independently and see which one starts working with the other disconnected. Narrow it down this way.
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  #3  
Old 07-02-2017, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse View Post
It's probably the clevis pin that holds the geared rod to the pin. That can sometimes catch on the fiberglass. Try that first. If that's not it, pull the clevis pin on the front and the back independently and see which one starts working with the other disconnected. Narrow it down this way.
I think I see what you are talking about on the plans. I'll cut the door open at the interior latch and check it out.

-Marc
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  #4  
Old 07-02-2017, 05:32 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
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For those of you who've finished the doors, has anyone come up with a neat way to close the holes you cut in the inside surface of the doors without a permanent patch? I hate the idea of leaving those fiddly linkages in there without a way to access them other than cutting a hole in the door.
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  #5  
Old 07-02-2017, 08:50 PM
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Default Fixed!

Well it turns out that the builder attached the racks with screws - and no locker. No locktight nothing. The screw holding the aft rack end had backed out until it started hitting the interior of the door. I removed it and replaced with red lock tight. At least he covered the hole with thin glass so it was easy to break out and access the mechanism.

I would have preferred a removable cover plate or door panel.

-Marc
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  #6  
Old 07-03-2017, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle Boatright View Post
For those of you who've finished the doors, has anyone come up with a neat way to close the holes you cut in the inside surface of the doors without a permanent patch? I hate the idea of leaving those fiddly linkages in there without a way to access them other than cutting a hole in the door.
I have a hole in my painted inner door skins to allow me access to the pin that connects the handle pushrod to the PlaneAround 3rd latch rack. It's probably around a 3/4" hole... enough for me to get the pin and safety wire done up with a needle nose.

I used a flush hole plug cap to cover it. It's just a black circle on my tan doors, and doesn't look bad at all, and it's removable.

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  #7  
Old 07-03-2017, 10:19 AM
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Here's a picture of my "pin access hole"
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  #8  
Old 07-03-2017, 05:00 PM
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Very nice Ed! In my case the offending screw was at the front, behind the interior door handle. The builder had sealed the area with thin glass, so I had to break that out to get access. I'm wondering what's behind the passenger door and the rear outside door handle....



In the above image you can see the screw in the lower left that started to work it's way out. The head is bent forward in this pic.


~Marc
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Last edited by Plummit : 07-03-2017 at 05:35 PM.
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  #9  
Old 07-03-2017, 06:40 PM
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Lenny Iszak Lenny Iszak is offline
 
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If you have the IFlyRV-10 flush handle, you have something like this on the inside. More opportunity for loose screws. If that rear one comes off you could lose the rear pin and then the door.
Might be a good idea to cut a small hole that can be covered by a plug like Ed's and then scope those screws.
There's also a 1/4" screw in the center, it loosened up for me even with a star washer under it. The next time I'll get to it it will get a pair of Nordlock washers.




Here's how I covered mine so i can get to it. Not too pretty but it works.

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  #10  
Old 07-03-2017, 09:05 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NovaBandit View Post
I have a hole in my painted inner door skins to allow me access to the pin that connects the handle pushrod to the PlaneAround 3rd latch rack. It's probably around a 3/4" hole... enough for me to get the pin and safety wire done up with a needle nose.

I used a flush hole plug cap to cover it. It's just a black circle on my tan doors, and doesn't look bad at all, and it's removable.

I'd considered those. Do they A: Stay attached? And B: Not interfere with the internal mechanism?

I'd actually thought about thinning them a little and using rubber cement, pliobond, or some other "soft" adhesive to hold 'em in place.
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