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  #21  
Old 05-18-2017, 05:50 PM
cczarnik cczarnik is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Middle TN
Posts: 54
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Just to add a little ... cutting the wheel is easy. A utility knife slices right through it. The wedges are double wide, you can split them and get two triangles. Screw the dremel mandrel in (I didn't even use a pilot hole). I shaped the cone by hand to rough shape on a bench grinder wheel. Then chucked it into the dremel and ran it against the wheel to final shape.

I am flying through rib prep now, IMHO this should be a sticky in tips- this is as big of a breakthrough as when I got my scotchbrite wheels.
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Last edited by rv7boy : 05-19-2017 at 02:53 AM.
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  #22  
Old 05-18-2017, 10:06 PM
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KC10FE KC10FE is offline
 
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Location: Colorado Springs, Co
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Default Thank you

I am extremely happy you all have found this useful. Thanks for all the wonderful comments. I hope all rv model builders benefit from this thread as well.....
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  #23  
Old 07-04-2017, 11:41 PM
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CubedRoot CubedRoot is offline
 
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Location: Ooltewah, TN.
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I gave this a shot tonight, and wasn't to happy with the results. After spending the time to cut and shape a cone, it lasted maybe 1 or 2 ribs, before I had to cut and shape another cone. I ended up with scotchbrite wheel dust EVERYWHERE and spent more time making the cones than I did getting anything done.

I am not sure I am using the right material. I have a bunch of these:
http://www.surplussales.com/Tools-Ac...abrasives.html

(The 5AFN part number).

They are pretty soft, and do great when I put them in my drill press to deburr the edges of the lightening holes.

Were my troubles due to using the wrong scotchbrite wheel to make the cones? Can someone that has used this method with success link me to the wheels you are using?

I am seriously considering going out and buying a 1" belt sander to get in these grooves.
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  #24  
Old 07-05-2017, 06:20 AM
Reflex Reflex is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Baldwin City, Kansas
Posts: 58
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I'm using this one with success:

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/3M-Cut.../#.WVzXEFGQy70

After cutting the wedge out using a bandsaw, I mount it in my Dremel and turn the Dremel on to a low speed. I then use the larger 6" Scotchbrite wheel on my grinder to shape the wedge. The wedge is turning the opposite direction of the wheel.

I've found that there is very little dust. In fact, I don't even need to wear a mask or clean up. The only thing that I have found is that I can't make the pieces last like KC
10 does. Even so, I find that this is a time saver and will continue to use.

Hope that helps!!

Fred
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  #25  
Old 07-05-2017, 04:06 PM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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Location: Worland, Wyoming
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CubedRoot View Post
I gave this a shot tonight, and wasn't to happy with the results. After spending the time to cut and shape a cone, it lasted maybe 1 or 2 ribs, before I had to cut and shape another cone. I ended up with scotchbrite wheel dust EVERYWHERE and spent more time making the cones than I did getting anything done.

I am not sure I am using the right material. I have a bunch of these:
http://www.surplussales.com/Tools-Ac...abrasives.html

(The 5AFN part number).

They are pretty soft, and do great when I put them in my drill press to deburr the edges of the lightening holes.

Were my troubles due to using the wrong scotchbrite wheel to make the cones? Can someone that has used this method with success link me to the wheels you are using?

I am seriously considering going out and buying a 1" belt sander to get in these grooves.
Lynn I have them same wheels, they are way too soft. I only use them for a last minute polish on things. You need the wheels that Fred mentioned, they are quite a bit harder and definitely do a better job at deburring (I use these first and then finish up with the softer ones). I will also add that this technique of making the cones didn't satisfy me entirely, unfortunately I still do the good ole flossing technique with 400 grit strips about 1/4" wide.
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  #26  
Old 07-05-2017, 04:48 PM
cczarnik cczarnik is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Middle TN
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3M 03173 light rust stripper wheel. Avaliable on Amazon and in stock at the auto dept at Wally World. It's a mandrel mounted version of the ubiquitous maroon pad, slightly stiffer. Similar texture as soon as it's worn in.

Chuck it in the drill press and does wonders on the nooks and crannies. I use this on the outside and deburring cones on the inside corners where I can't get to them. Doesn't last forever but it's worth it.

With the combo my aileron ribs took about 15 minutes last night. Would have been hours with a file and sandpaper.
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  #27  
Old 07-05-2017, 04:56 PM
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CubedRoot CubedRoot is offline
 
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Location: Ooltewah, TN.
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Chuck,
Did you end up using one of those 03173 wheels to cut up and make the "deburring cones" for getting in the small grooves between the flange tabs?

I'm about to head out to home depot / Lowes / Ace / Wal-mart to see what I can come up with.
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RV-7 Slider -
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Wing Kit Started - June 2017
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  #28  
Old 07-05-2017, 05:09 PM
cczarnik cczarnik is offline
 
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Location: Middle TN
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Lynn- check PM
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  #29  
Old 07-06-2017, 08:00 AM
tyconnell tyconnell is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 96
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I'm curious - I ordered and have used a Dremel 516 Abrasive Point, and I'm wondering if anyone has compared that attachment to what is produced using this method.
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  #30  
Old 07-06-2017, 10:03 PM
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KC10FE KC10FE is offline
 
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Location: Colorado Springs, Co
Posts: 25
Default Don't use Silicon carbide

Tyconnell........I can't remember where I heard it, but was told not to mix silicon carbide with aluminum. FYI.... maybe someone can confirm or correct!
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