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  #11  
Old 01-13-2017, 06:26 PM
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Vlad Vlad is offline
 
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Location: NJ
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Houch! I hope the surgery will be minor to stop the bleeding Steve. Please report back. Is your hangar heated?
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  #12  
Old 01-13-2017, 06:31 PM
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Steve Melton Steve Melton is offline
 
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Location: Cincinnati, OH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
Houch! I hope the surgery will be minor to stop the bleeding Steve. Please report back. Is your hangar heated?
yep, the Kerosene burns brightly. I must admit I'm timid about doing but I will give it a try.
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Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 600+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.
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  #13  
Old 01-13-2017, 06:32 PM
Robert Anglin Robert Anglin is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: houston, texas
Posts: 680
Default sounds correct to me

If it is on the back side of the ring gear and inside the lip on that side it would tend to be a front crank seal. if it were on the front side of the ring gear hub then it would point to a prop leak. Sorry about the bad news, you can do it.
Yours, R.E.A. III #80888
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  #14  
Old 01-13-2017, 06:46 PM
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Steve Melton Steve Melton is offline
 
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Location: Cincinnati, OH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbalmos View Post
I couldn't remember if you had a CS prop or not. I'm betting prop seal, based on how it was able to pool on the edge of the air intake of the cowl. Crank front seal is too far back, but was the only idea if the prop was FP.
the oil is a significant distance from the front edge of the top cowl. it seems the oil travels fwd and out between the cowl and spinner but I didn't have any oil on the windshield but I did see some on the top side of the cowl at the fwd edge. the dipstick measured 7 qts. so plenty of oil remaining.

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Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 600+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.

Last edited by Steve Melton : 01-13-2017 at 07:03 PM.
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  #15  
Old 01-13-2017, 07:27 PM
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snopercod snopercod is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 742
Default frustrating

I went through months and months of searching for an oil leak. Oil was everywhere but I was "sure" it was the crankshaft oil seal. So I "diapered" the area with some kraft paper that fit around the crankshaft and ran the engine. No oil found. But I removed the (fixed pitch) prop and changed the crankshaft oil seal anyway. Changing the seal wasn't that difficult (My engine uses a split seal). I still had the oil leak so I added some of that fluorescent dye to the engine oil and used an UV flashlight to look for leaks. After hours and hours, I couldn't find any indications.

To make a long story longer, I eventually found some fluorescent dye on the cowling below cylinder #2. The leak turned out to be at the rocker cover gasket but the air flow in the cowling pulled it up front by the ring gear.

May the force be with you.
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  #16  
Old 01-13-2017, 08:36 PM
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AlexPeterson AlexPeterson is offline
 
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Location: Maple Grove, MN
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There seems to be more oil on the floor than could drool down from the cowl. Meaning maybe like something that contains oil is leaking. If that much oil was simply splattered around on the cowl, the belly would have been covered, I'd think.

Good luck! Two types of engines - those that have and those that will leak oil...
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  #17  
Old 01-13-2017, 08:49 PM
andyrv andyrv is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 230
Default Seal Tool

My front seal started leaking in my Superior XP engine at about 300 hours. I replaced it and no more leaks so far at 1100 hours.

Lycoming sells a seal tool to help install the one-piece seals but they are $1150 to $1200. I bought the Aircraft Tool Supply version (5209) for $80 and it worked very well. Took much longer to get the seal seating area completely clean (working in tight space behind the flange) than actually replacing the seal itself.

Andy
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  #18  
Old 01-13-2017, 09:15 PM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
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Steve,
I have a split front seal you can have - but I don't understand how those don't leak...... I had a leaker on my RV6 years ago and I had Jeff at Elite put a new solid one in for me. Took him about 15 minutes. I think he boiled it first to soften it up and then slid it over the crank flange. Then used the Lycoming approved sealant and let it set. Never leaked again. You'll have to take your prop and ring gear off first. Will you be out there tomorrow? (Saturday)
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  #19  
Old 01-13-2017, 09:57 PM
rockwoodrv9 rockwoodrv9 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Meridian ID, Aspen CO
Posts: 2,217
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That sucks Steve. Best of luck getting back in the air soon. At least it is the c rappy weather time of the year for flying anyway!!
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  #20  
Old 01-14-2017, 04:06 AM
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Steve Melton Steve Melton is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Hersha View Post
Steve,
I have a split front seal you can have - but I don't understand how those don't leak...... I had a leaker on my RV6 years ago and I had Jeff at Elite put a new solid one in for me. Took him about 15 minutes. I think he boiled it first to soften it up and then slid it over the crank flange. Then used the Lycoming approved sealant and let it set. Never leaked again. You'll have to take your prop and ring gear off first. Will you be out there tomorrow? (Saturday)
I'll be out there on Saturday. The "Jeff" approach sounds good to me.
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Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 600+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.
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