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  #21  
Old 12-02-2016, 11:43 AM
rglick rglick is offline
 
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I don't understand why people continue to post successful modifications when "God like" posters question anything that doesn't fit into their box. Good for you Tiger74 for doing what you think is best in your scenario. BTW, I did the just about the same thing as you with the same results. Move on and fly!
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  #22  
Old 12-02-2016, 12:05 PM
sblack sblack is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rglick View Post
I don't understand why people continue to post successful modifications when "God like" posters question anything that doesn't fit into their box. Good for you Tiger74 for doing what you think is best in your scenario. BTW, I did the just about the same thing as you with the same results. Move on and fly!
I think the issue is that people might think that these will solve all cooling problems without digging in to the real issue i.e. is it ignition timing, baffle leakage, poor ducting to the oil cooler etc etc. The OP did not provide any details in the first post, so there was no way to put this mod in context with the details of the problem I.e. what is the setup and what else had been tried. That is why Dan asked for more info.

Louvers won't solve all cooling problems but in some cases they might work very well. It depends what the problem is. I would want to know the source of the problem before I opened up the cowling exit area, which is what the louvers are doing.

The tone of the negative replies is a separate issue. I wouldn't lose sleep over that personally.
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  #23  
Old 12-02-2016, 12:25 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiger 74 View Post
Probably about right.
As you say, 2-3 knots over a 2-3 hour trip no great penalty for healthy temps.
So without measuring top/bottom pressures, outlet temps and tinkering with a myriad of other factors (I've read all the threads on this topic), I think I'll take the easy option and go flying with what I've got! I was seeing 173 knots IAS (178 TAS from Skyview) flat out at 1,000ft at close to ISA, so that'll do me!
Ummmm.....178 KTAS at WOT, 1000 ft, standard day? Dave, assuming good airspeed calibration, that is really slow. A Showplanes fastback on a clean -8, with 185~195 HP from a 10:1 IO-360 parallel valve should be good for 190 knots plus. Are you sure of engine health? Perhaps ignition timing?
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Last edited by DanH : 12-02-2016 at 12:28 PM.
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  #24  
Old 12-02-2016, 12:42 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rglick View Post
I don't understand why people continue to post successful modifications when "God like" posters question anything that doesn't fit into their box. Good for you Tiger74 for doing what you think is best in your scenario. BTW, I did the just about the same thing as you with the same results. Move on and fly!
I just moved you from my "Nice" list to the "Naughty" list.

Oops, sorry, wrong deity
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  #25  
Old 12-02-2016, 12:53 PM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by rph142 View Post
I solved a cooling issue on my high compression Pmag'd lyc by cleaning out the flashing between the fins that are located near the spark plug. You can buy needle files for a few bucks at harbor freight. I polished each fin until there was absolutely no evidence of flashing casting flaws. The results were a 20F drop in CHT during extended climb. Plan on spending 3-4 hours on this job.
Can anyone show me what "flashing" looks like? None of my fins appear clogged, but the paint is textured making it pretty bumpy between the fins. Is that robbing my cylinders of cooling air?
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  #26  
Old 12-02-2016, 12:54 PM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
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If I was building per plans and specs, build and go fly. (that is what I did)
If you're going to go through the expense and trouble to put "after market" higher performance parts and pieces in your build, I sure would want to get what I paid for and do some extra digging....

Dan - way too close to Christmas man For an engineer, you're pretty funny. Ha!
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  #27  
Old 12-02-2016, 12:54 PM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rph142 View Post
I solved a cooling issue on my high compression Pmag'd lyc by cleaning out the flashing between the fins that are located near the spark plug. You can buy needle files for a few bucks at harbor freight. I polished each fin until there was absolutely no evidence of flashing casting flaws. The results were a 20F drop in CHT during extended climb. Plan on spending 3-4 hours on this job.
I like to learn more about this as I had thought about it without any good/practical way of doing it. Over the years, I have followed and learned much about improving cooling specially from Dan. I have improved the baffle seal to a near @nal point with little appreciable improvements in temps. Of course my temps are OK or better than OK during cruise but in steady climb out, I have to reduce power to keep it under 400F and 400F is my own upper limit. My oil temp on the other hand runs on the cool side even in the CA temp.
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  #28  
Old 12-02-2016, 12:57 PM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinelakespilot2000 View Post
Can anyone show me what "flashing" looks like? None of my fins appear clogged, but the paint is textured making it pretty bumpy between the fins. Is that robbing my cylinders of cooling air?
No. Bumpy's are good; more surface area.
Flashing is very obvious. It looks like a thin bridge of material between the fins. I don't have any pictures as mine don't have any.
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  #29  
Old 12-02-2016, 01:04 PM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonJay View Post
No. Bumpy's are good; more surface area.
Flashing is very obvious. It looks like a thin bridge of material between the fins. I don't have any pictures as mine don't have any.
Thanks Jon for clarifying as mine also has bumps but not bridges
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  #30  
Old 12-02-2016, 01:06 PM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bavafa View Post
Thanks Jon for clarifying as mine also has bumps but not bridges
Ok, I need to be careful here, it is a "rough" finish, tiny bumps. Looks like it was peened or sandblasted. Just not sure what the definition of a "bump" is.
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