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  #11  
Old 12-29-2015, 10:56 PM
drone_pilot drone_pilot is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Hobbs, NM
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Sounds like my setup is exactly the same as yours. I ran the wires for my pitot heat in the 3/4" main conduit at the bottom of the rib. I did the same with the Dynon Roll servo. I just cut a slot in the black plastic conduit and fed it in from the heater and servo. Looks like I've got my components on the same wings as your planning. The aileron pushrod passes through the forward lightening hole and in my opinion, I'd rather have everything routed as not to get in the way of it. It's a tight area between the root rib and the fuselage so by routing all the wiring thru the 3/4" hole, I can go straight into the fuselage and do a better job of staying out of the way of the aileron push tube. I'd rather turn the corner with the wires inside of the fuselage where it is easier and more accessible to inspect than at the root rib. I put a service loop in my wiring out at the tip rib for the AeroLED NAV/Strobe and AeroSun landing/Taxi Lights. I put another service loop at the Dynon pitot heat controller which I mounted to the inspection plate. I work with computer networks and I am a firm believer in using home runs on the wires and not adding connectors at the root rib, etc. It's not my intention to ever remove the wings now that they're on but if I ever need to, I can cut the wires at the root rib and use the service loops to aid in installing electrical connectors if ever needed. My temperature probe is mounted under the HS for shade from the hot New Mexico sun while sitting outside somewhere.

I'm a fair weather flyer and have gone straight Dynon on everything ( No finger pointing between avionics vendors if something doesn't work right). All antenna's are on the fuselage so I have no need to route coax in the wings. I try to follow the KISS principle with a close second of keeping everything as easy to access and service as possible. I think "easy access" may be an oxymoron when used in the same sentence with the word "airplane".

At first I was going IFR everything including the sink from mammas kitchen, then I got honest with myself and the flying I enjoy vs the flying I would never really consider doing unless fleeing the evil empire for my life. I feel that I have a really nice dual Dynon setup with tons more capability than I'll personally need. At that, I have a very complex capability yet simple panel with not too many buttons and switches to figure out. I have flown the same Cessna 182 since 1985. I have tried to keep my switch layout very similar to the Cessna and that gives me one less thing to get accustomed to. Rather than overbuild and add weight to your bird, be real with yourself and the type flying you are comfortable with. I feel its better to have a light airplane rather than to be flying a bunch of heavy equipment around the sky that may never truly be used. There is my 10 cents worth in three disgustingly long paragraphs!
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RV-7A Tip Up - Done!!!
Airworthiness Certificate in hand!
Transition training done!
Flying my wings off!

Last edited by drone_pilot : 12-29-2015 at 11:00 PM. Reason: Fix a paragraph
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  #12  
Old 12-30-2015, 01:27 AM
Aero_Octaveus Aero_Octaveus is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 152
Default Great Advice!

Ok, Great advice and tons of food for thought. Really tough to find information on where to mount the remote magnetometer from Dynon as it is so new.

Drone Pilot...Excellent advice on running the roll servo and pitot heat from the 3/4" conduit. Didn't even think of that! It would take the wiring out of the 7/16" holes and free them up for potential NAV/Comm wiring. I am a bit nervous about adding extra holes beyond those described on Van's PDF on wing wiring hole recommendations, and this will help avoid that.

Point well taken on the KISS advice. I agree, light and simple is the key. I just don't want to paint myself into corners down the road because I didn't do enough research while building the wings . Better to allow for things and not need them, than not allow for it and need it.
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  #13  
Old 12-30-2015, 03:00 PM
drone_pilot drone_pilot is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Hobbs, NM
Posts: 187
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By the time you get near the end of the build, you start wanting to try the whole thing all over again. I've sure learned a lot in the build process and sometimes I feel like I could cut the build time into much less than half. Likewise, the folks in this forum have had some great ideas and techniques that I'd like to try out for myself. I have enjoyed the building/learning almost as much as I do the flying.
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RV-7A Tip Up - Done!!!
Airworthiness Certificate in hand!
Transition training done!
Flying my wings off!
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  #14  
Old 06-23-2017, 08:48 AM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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Location: Worland, Wyoming
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Ladies and gents, I have brought this thread back up because I'm sure there will be more questions that need answered as it seems Van's has made a change (maybe this has already been asked but I can't find it). The pic below says it all. Van's appears to have removed one of the existing tooling holes. My setup will be almost identical to what is described in the first post with the exception of not putting a nav antenna in the wing tip. So my question now is, the two holes in the forward part of the rib will be needed for the two pitot lines; therefore, is it a good idea to run all of the wires in the same conduit space? The left conduit would be holding, nav lights, landing light, strobes, pitot heat control, and possibly stall warning. The right conduit would be nav lights, landing light, strobes, and autopilot. What say you?

wing rib wiring by Jereme Carne, on Flickr
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  #15  
Old 06-26-2017, 03:24 PM
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Raymo Raymo is offline
 
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Location: Richmond Hill, GA (KLHW)
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I did basically what you are proposing and also had planned for a wingtip NAV antenna but opted not to install it. I recently saw a post that showed the ELT antenna in the right wing-tip, which is something you might consider. Mine is in the aft right side of the cabin, which won't work well if inverted.

Left wing:
* Nav/Strobe/Landing light
* Pitot / AOA tubes
* Pitot heat (Pos/Neg/Ind)

Right wing:
* Nav/Strobe/Landing light
* AP harness
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RV-7A - Slider - N495KL - First flt 27 Jan 17
O-360-A4M w/ Catto 3 blade NLE, AFP FM-150 FI, 1 PMag, Vetterman Trombone Exh, SkyTech starter,
PlanePower Alt, FlightLines Interior, James cowl & plenum
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  #16  
Old 06-26-2017, 06:13 PM
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CubedRoot CubedRoot is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ooltewah, TN.
Posts: 434
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raymo View Post
I did basically what you are proposing and also had planned for a wingtip NAV antenna but opted not to install it. I recently saw a post that showed the ELT antenna in the right wing-tip, which is something you might consider. Mine is in the aft right side of the cabin, which won't work well if inverted.

Left wing:
* Nav/Strobe/Landing light
* Pitot / AOA tubes
* Pitot heat (Pos/Neg/Ind)

Right wing:
* Nav/Strobe/Landing light
* AP harness
Having the ELT antenna in the wingtip doesn't sound very good in the event of a crash. The wingtip would be very easy to break off causing you to loose your ELT antenna as well in the event of an emergency. Personally, I will stick my ELT in the tail and have the antenna right under the tail section fiberglass fairing. Its pretty well protected back there in a crash, and can still transmit when it needs to. I don't want the coax for the ELT running through any parts of the aircraft (ribs, holes, etc) that could flex and cause the cable to be cut or torn during a crash.

I am in the same boat as Jereme. I am about 30 hours into my wings and am thinking about wiring. Here is what I am thinking:

LEFT WING:
LED Nav/strobe
LED Landing and taxi lighting
Stall warner
Heated Pitot
AOA/Pitot lines
APRS

RIGHT WING
LED Nav/strobe
LED Landing and taxi lighting
Autopilot wiring
Archer Nav antenna
OAT probe
Magnetometer (possibly?)
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  #17  
Old 06-27-2017, 07:18 AM
Raymo's Avatar
Raymo Raymo is offline
 
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Location: Richmond Hill, GA (KLHW)
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There is no perfect location for the ELT antenna. Each place has its drawback, including the tail or wingtip, where it is not mounted per instructions to be vertical.
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RV-7A - Slider - N495KL - First flt 27 Jan 17
O-360-A4M w/ Catto 3 blade NLE, AFP FM-150 FI, 1 PMag, Vetterman Trombone Exh, SkyTech starter,
PlanePower Alt, FlightLines Interior, James cowl & plenum
All lines by TSFlightLines
NSDQ

"The object of the game, gentlemen, is not to cheat death: the object is not to let him play."
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  #18  
Old 06-27-2017, 09:35 AM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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Location: Worland, Wyoming
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Thanks for the replies guys, Raymo could you comment on one more thing that may help Lynn and I out. He is going to put in the nav antenna in the wing, I have thought about that too but don't know that it's necessary; however, would your conduit run have enough room for this extra wire? I seem to recall seeing it is a rather thick wire, possibly shielded too?
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  #19  
Old 06-27-2017, 12:24 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 3,993
Default Be Mindful of the Bell Crank Range of motion

I bought my wings "done" and sweating the details now for the attachment. I found two issues. One was the pitot routing down the center can get pinched between the bell crank and the spar web - the other is taken care of by your conduit routing, that is - clearance around the servo. My conduit is right under the D-sub connector.
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  #20  
Old 06-27-2017, 01:40 PM
Carl Froehlich's Avatar
Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcarne View Post
Thanks for the replies guys, Raymo could you comment on one more thing that may help Lynn and I out. He is going to put in the nav antenna in the wing, I have thought about that too but don't know that it's necessary; however, would your conduit run have enough room for this extra wire? I seem to recall seeing it is a rather thick wire, possibly shielded too?
If you want an IFR airplane, a NAV antenna is, for most practical installs, required. My wingtip NAV antenna works out to 100nmi at altitude. I made several of these antenna for various RV project and I recommend making instead of buying. I have other posts on this if anyone is interested.

Carl
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