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  #11  
Old 06-12-2014, 09:06 AM
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DaleB DaleB is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wirejock View Post
The maroon pads stick perfect on my random orbital. It's actually not aggressive. They work great and fast.
I was going to say the same thing. A maroon pad on a random orbital makes very quick work of deburring match-drilled holes in wing skins. It feels a little like cheating, but I manage to live with myself afterwards.
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  #12  
Old 06-12-2014, 09:29 AM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PilotRPI View Post
I learned a neat trick this weekend. Instead of manually using scotchbrite pads, I met someone using an angle die grinder with 3M roloc wheels. He suggested using the very fine blue discs instead of the maroon, as the high speed may be too aggressive with the maroon.

So those discs, acetone, and AKZO spray seems like a much better/quicker process for protection rather than some of the other things I've seen.
Blue Roloc disks are about the equivalent "grit" to the maroon 7447 hand ScotchBrite sheets.

They don't use the same color coding system.
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  #13  
Old 06-12-2014, 11:59 AM
JDBoston JDBoston is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila View Post
Blue Roloc disks are about the equivalent "grit" to the maroon 7447 hand ScotchBrite sheets.

They don't use the same color coding system.
Thanks for clarifying Gil. It was actually me that showed Jesse the blue discs over the weekend, but I was unclear it was the same grit as the maroon.

I know this thread is about AKZO but for the Sherwin Williams primer I am finding that I don't even need to scuff the surface and it has good adhesion. Just a quick clean with Acetone and good to go.
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  #14  
Old 12-18-2014, 11:24 PM
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rdamazio rdamazio is offline
 
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Question

Newbie question: when you all talk about AKZO, which Akzo are you referring to, exactly? They seem to have a lot of different products.
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  #15  
Old 12-18-2014, 11:46 PM
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This is the interior primer from Akzo at Aircraft Spruce.
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  #16  
Old 12-19-2014, 10:01 AM
longline longline is offline
 
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Default Interior Primer

The description is "interior" primer. My impression is that this would be fine as a primer under a finish exterior paint, but that it would not handle UV long term on it's own, hence the "interior" Is this correct?
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  #17  
Old 12-19-2014, 08:12 PM
Mike H Mike H is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longline View Post
The description is "interior" primer. My impression is that this would be fine as a primer under a finish exterior paint, but that it would not handle UV long term on it's own, hence the "interior" Is this correct?
Yes, many airframe manufacturers use this primer, or a similar solvent resistant primer on the outside of the structure. When top coat paint is applied to the exterior the solvent resistant primer is usually scuff sanded and a fresh coat of primer that is compatible with the top coat is applied prior to the top coat paint application.
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  #18  
Old 06-08-2017, 09:27 PM
iwannarv iwannarv is offline
 
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Reviving an old thread here.....

I plan on going the scuff/clean/Akzo route. Those who did this process BEFORE dimpling, did it hold up well?

I hope to prime in larger parts batches before dimpling, then do any small touch ups necessary with a primer pen if needed after a file or minor trim, if it makes sense to do so in some areas.

I may plan on chemically etching with 50/50 Alumiprep/Water or EkoEtch along with the maroon pads if it would help hold to a dimple.
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Last edited by iwannarv : 06-08-2017 at 09:53 PM.
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  #19  
Old 06-08-2017, 09:34 PM
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Default Process

Quote:
Originally Posted by iwannarv View Post
Reviving an old thread here.....

I plan on going the scuff/clean/Azko route. Those who did this process BEFORE dimpling, did it hold up well?

I hope to prime in larger parts batches before dimpling, then do any small touch ups necessary with a primer pen if needed after a file or minor trim, if it makes sense to do so in some areas.

I may plan on chemically etching with 50/50 Alumiprep/Water or EkoEtch along with the maroon pads if it would help hold to a dimple.
Basically how I did it. In my case the primer is P60G2.
One caveot. The real issue with paint prep on aluminum is removal of aluminum oxide before spraying the paint. If you scuff first, there's no way to get paint on before the AO forms again so pick your poison. Personally, I clean with Bon Ami and grey scotchbrite before spraying. Alumiprep would work fine too.
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  #20  
Old 06-08-2017, 09:38 PM
iwannarv iwannarv is offline
 
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Thanks - I intend only on doing this to interior surfaces when they are ready to prime. Not on the exterior surfaces or rivet lines. I'll let a pro painter do that prep (someday, hopefully).
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