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  #91  
Old 07-16-2017, 06:24 PM
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Steve Melton Steve Melton is offline
 
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Originally Posted by C-FAH Q View Post
Take a cotter pin removal tool, poke it into the seal and pull. Then cut seal with a knife. Make sure to replace the spring with the new one that comes with it. Ensure the spring is fully seated on back of seal before inserting.
Thank you and funny that you mention that spring. Some time after installation I realized I got them crossed upon installation and re-used the old spring. I wouldn't think this could be the cause because a spring is a spring right, but I don't have experience with this. I suppose the spring could act as a vibration damper and if not just right the seal could vibrate and wear.
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Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 600+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.

Last edited by Steve Melton : 07-16-2017 at 07:06 PM.
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  #92  
Old 07-16-2017, 11:13 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Steve Melton View Post
history: I replaced the original seal 100 hrs ago (460 hrs total time) because it became totally unseated and was resting on the crankshaft. It was replaced with a similar seal using Pilobond adhesive rather than the original white RTV. Yesterday upon oil change I found it was leaking. The Pilobond is secure and the seal is seated and the leak is between the crank and the seal. There is a black color to the leaking oil but my internal oil is clean so I can only presume the seal is wearing but not sure why. question is: how to remove the seal for replacement?





Assuming the crank OD surface is clean (no scratches or groove) it sounds like the seal is defective (problem with rubber compound). Suggest replacing the seal with a different supplier. They probably had a bad batch of rubber and you run the risk of getting another from the same batch. Did you grease the ID of the seal during installation? That is a critical installation step for proper seal break in with a rotating shaft.

Larry
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Last edited by lr172 : 07-16-2017 at 11:18 PM.
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  #93  
Old 07-16-2017, 11:16 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Melton View Post
Thank you and funny that you mention that spring. Some time after installation I realized I got them crossed upon installation and re-used the old spring. I wouldn't think this could be the cause because a spring is a spring right, but I don't have experience with this. I suppose the spring could act as a vibration damper and if not just right the seal could vibrate and wear.
The spring is a critical component in creating tension for the seal around the shaft, especially as the rubber ages. However, the spring should last for many years and 1000's of hours. Seems highly unlikely that the older spring caused your issue.

Larry
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  #94  
Old 07-17-2017, 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by lr172 View Post
The spring is a critical component in creating tension for the seal around the shaft, especially as the rubber ages. However, the spring should last for many years and 1000's of hours. Seems highly unlikely that the older spring caused your issue.

Larry
...unless it got over-stretched during the removal process...
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  #95  
Old 07-17-2017, 01:00 PM
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swisseagle swisseagle is offline
 
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Default Where to get the correct no. for the seal?

Hello

It looks like my front seal is leaking too! About 3 drops per hour ... that is not much, but enough to make a big mess between the intervalls. It runs down to the alternator and starter, drops onto the FAB.

I need to remove the prop to see if it is really the seal or the case halves.

Where do I get the correct no. for the seal and what thread is there for the nose seal retainer? I live in europe and its really hard to get the screws.

It is a TMX-IO-320 from Mattituck.

Thanks alot!
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Last edited by swisseagle : 07-17-2017 at 01:06 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #96  
Old 07-17-2017, 03:30 PM
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snopercod snopercod is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Melton View Post
question is: how to remove the seal for replacement?
I used a hook like the curved one in this set. Be careful not to scratch the crankshaft:

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  #97  
Old 07-17-2017, 04:00 PM
Gusmax Gusmax is offline
 
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Steve,

On your post #62 on picture #2 I noticed what could be some glue around the lip of the seal?? The Lycoming Service Instruction 1324C warns about not getting ANY glue on the crank while installing. I wonder if glue on crank is causing wear to the seal? I just installed a new seal on a IO-540 2 weeks ago and fortunately it is not leaking. I used the DOW 737 clear.

Good luck!

Phil
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  #98  
Old 07-18-2017, 02:53 AM
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Steve Melton Steve Melton is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Gusmax View Post
Steve,

On your post #62 on picture #2 I noticed what could be some glue around the lip of the seal?? The Lycoming Service Instruction 1324C warns about not getting ANY glue on the crank while installing. I wonder if glue on crank is causing wear to the seal? I just installed a new seal on a IO-540 2 weeks ago and fortunately it is not leaking. I used the DOW 737 clear.

Good luck!

Phil
We were careful but it is possible. When I get the old one off I'll have a look.
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Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 600+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.
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  #99  
Old 07-18-2017, 08:35 PM
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Steve Melton Steve Melton is offline
 
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No pictures because I forgot my camera but yes, I had not one but two locations where pliobond was on the shaft under the seal. I'm convinced that was the cause of the seal wear. I don't know how to be more careful with that stuff so the next time around I will use DC 737.
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Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 600+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.
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  #100  
Old 07-19-2017, 05:42 AM
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snopercod snopercod is offline
 
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I'm glad you found the problem, Steve.
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