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  #11  
Old 02-05-2017, 03:59 PM
rvtestpilot rvtestpilot is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Lewistown
Posts: 13
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I'll have to think about that: I know all the best molds I've made by hand and machined have been significantly reinforced. And have had special provisions for the vacumme bag.

However this mold I'm thinking of a two sided hardshell so the inside and lands for the camlocks are perfect and don't need post clean up, beyond the split line. Like the injection molds I machined. The foam core will add the spring as nessisary when the two halves are vacuumed together.

"Quote:
Originally Posted by rvtestpilot View Post
....And vacuum molding only works if you have a proper mold that will not deflect, inside curves require a very very strong mold!! ....
Actually, they don't, if the part is sealed to the side (typically an extension of the side) that it's up against, and the back side is at ambient air pressure.

Dave
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  #12  
Old 02-05-2017, 05:21 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Location: Boulder, CO
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Dave, one way to think about it is to imagine wanting a half-round cylindrical shell. Get a coffee can and put mold release on it and lay up your part directly on it. Set up the vacuum bag, taping it directly to the can.

There's equal pressure on both sides so the mold doesn't distort.

What did you use for a mold, by the way?

Are you using the stiffness of the carbon panel directly or are you adding a core for a sandwich or ribs?

Also, thanks very much for posting this. I think it's great that you found a good part for converting into carbon.

Dave
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  #13  
Old 06-29-2017, 06:14 PM
Flywade4 Flywade4 is offline
 
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Location: West columbia, Texas
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I want put a baggage door in my RV 14 can you give the page numbers in the drawing section numbers for the baggage instruction so can get a copy from van
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  #14  
Old 06-30-2017, 09:46 AM
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
The usual approach is a ply of ordinary fiberglass to isolate the carbon. Alternate approach is two coats of epoxy primer and two coats of paint, then hope it doesn't wear though.

If aluminum rivets are used, they too must be isolated from the carbon somehow. Minimum is to wet-set in a moisture proof sealant. Proseal might do.

Good luck finding a titanium lock assembly.

This is not a great application for carbon.

This has me concerned for all the places in the RV-10 doors where screw holes are drilled through the carbon-fiber-reinforced portions of the doors for securing door pin blocks, Vans and PlaneAround rack and pinion units, etc. Seems like the cad plating isn't going to fare well in those locations. Do these fasteners need to be inserted wet with neat epoxy or receive some other treatment to prevent galvanic issues down the road, under the paint?
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  #15  
Old 06-30-2017, 11:19 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
This has me concerned for all the places in the RV-10 doors where screw holes are drilled through the carbon-fiber-reinforced portions of the doors for securing door pin blocks, Vans and PlaneAround rack and pinion units, etc. Seems like the cad plating isn't going to fare well in those locations. Do these fasteners need to be inserted wet with neat epoxy or receive some other treatment to prevent galvanic issues down the road, under the paint?
Don't get real wadded about it. Apparently folks are not having problems with that application.

I'd put mine in wet, but that's just me.

Pretty sure Niu is a respected reference.
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