VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics


Go Back   VAF Forums > Main > RV General Discussion/News
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #11  
Old 10-05-2007, 08:48 AM
todehnal todehnal is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Kentucky Lakes area in KY
Posts: 839
Default One Step Further

I think that the ďIn the ear headsetĒ could be a terrific product and very satisfying project. I have studies all of the afore mentioned write-ups and even built my first wire frame, to which I added a yellow wire nut to simulate the mic and wore around the house for much of yesterday afternoon. Yes, I did get some smirky smiles from the family, but I can handle that. Wow!! Is that ever comfortable!!.

I donít have an old headset to scavenge, so I need to find suppliers for the following needed items:

Please think of this with stereo sound in mind.

Mic socket, mic and muff Ė Needs to be noise canceling and tiny
Mic circuit chip Ė Perhaps what Clarity Aloft uses.
Molded cord w/plugs Ė Sure, I could make something up, but it wouldnít look as good.
Transformers Ė Still not sure if I need those or not??
Schematic Ė It would be nice to have a diagram to assist in the wiring.
Iím sure that some standard wiring color code is used and that would be nice to know

It would also be helpful to know what wiring needs to be shielded. I just happened to have some, really small, shielded wire, if needed.

Iím sure that Iím not alone here and that there are a lot of us RV addicts that would love to build our own ďIn the ear headsetĒ but we need a little extra help with the process.

All advice appreciated

Tom
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 10-08-2007, 12:04 PM
cnpeters cnpeters is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: St. Louis (Eureka), MO
Posts: 283
Default

Tom,
Really can't help much, as I would have to research mics from scratch and with some trial and error to see what would work. I just don't know enough about it. That is the beauty is using an old headset - the research and work was cut WAY down.
Some of the parts you mention can be found at Radio Shack or other electronic suppliers, including the mics. I just don't where to start on the latter. You can buy a passive inexpensive stereo headset off ebay for $60 or so ($100 for a new AV-200, and I believe has stereo plug though wired for mono) and have everything you need - will cost as much by buying separately. It still will be way cheaper than the commercial in ear sets.
For a schematic, all I did was trace the wires and write them down and reconnect - this was mainly needed for the chip that I relocated to the project box. Thus, I can't write up a schematic if you buy parts separately as I don't know what they will be. By not buying a used headset, you will create at least three times the work and pratically no savings in money.
Good luck,
cp
__________________
Carl Peters
St. Louis, MO
RV-9A finishing kit
http://www.mykitlog.com/cnpeters
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 10-08-2007, 12:51 PM
todehnal todehnal is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Kentucky Lakes area in KY
Posts: 839
Default Some Progress

Thanks Carl. Iíve made a little progress in the process. Iíve ordered the Comply HC-NR10 headset. For $60, it provides the complete stereo headset, including a volume control, everything that I need for the receive side, with the exception of the correct plug on the end to accommodate a standard aircraft jack. Surely I can figure that out. In fact, my hope is to find an adapter so that I can use the in-ear headset for other purposes, if desired. My plan is to keep the in-ear headset and headband/mic, as two separate units.

Now for the headband/mic assembly: As I mentioned, I have a sample headband fabricated. I found, in my old goodie box, a brand new David Clark M-7A mic, still in the package. I had bought it a long time ago, thinking that I had a bad one, which turned out to be wrong. I think that it was only about a $30 item. I do have a couple of good functioning DC headsets, but I wonít scavenge parts off of them. They will stay in my Cub.

What to do?? Do I break this new mic apart to see if there is a chip in there? My thoughts are that there is. This mic assembly is a bit larger than it would be if I separated the chip from the actual mic itself, as you did, but I donít think that it will add objectionable weight to the headband. I may just try attaching this to my headband with a small cable and a mic plug on the end to see if it even has a prayer of working. Canít wait for my comply headset to get here. Iím excited!!

What am I missing here? The way that I see it, with the above approach I think that I only need the following items:

Headset plug adapter - to go from the headset cord plug to the A/C radio jack
Mic plug - to go on the end of the headband mic cord and plug into the A/C radio jack
And some wire. Did you use shielded or not?

Thanks again for the follow up. I really want to make this work.

The Saga continues,

Tom
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 10-08-2007, 05:39 PM
mdoyle mdoyle is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Xenia, OH
Posts: 122
Default

You might try RST Engineering, I purchased a headphone kit, audio panelkit and intercom kit many years ago. The head phone kit included wire, microphone, connectors etc. They sell replacement parts, but they aren't specifically listed on their website. http://www.rst-engr.com/index.html
__________________
Mike Doyle
RV-9A, N16MD
Xenia, OH 45385
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 10-19-2007, 09:06 AM
jcmcdowell jcmcdowell is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 275
Default Started building an in-ear headset...

I didn't have an old headset to scrap parts from so I had to start from scratch...

Radio Shack: $60
noise reduction ear plugs with comply plugs and inline volume control
project box
6' stereo cable for mic
assorted grommets
misc connectors
1/8" stereo headphone jack

Aircraft Spruce: $70
headset extension plugs
headset "Y" box
shrink tube
4' piano hinge pin
noice cancellation mic

$130 so far-
__________________
jcmcdowell-
sold my RV9a kit
bought a flying RV7 taildragger
sold my RV7
I am a flightless bird!
VAF #976
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 10-20-2007, 09:02 PM
cnpeters cnpeters is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: St. Louis (Eureka), MO
Posts: 283
Default

Tom,
Try Radio Shack (here - http://www.radioshack.com/sm-1-8-ste...i-2062468.html ) and others for the plug adapter. Will work fine. So will the mic as you describe. No, I didn't use shielded wire from the project box to the mic, nor are the ear bud wires shielded. No noise.
For your mic, why don't you just tape it on your head wire to see if it too heavy or bulky? To counterbalance, run the mic wires around the frame wire and exit off on the other side, so the weight of the free hanging wire counters the mic and mic boom. If it is still too bulky, then you will need to cut apart, but try the simple way first and test. Then you just need the .206" plug.
Good luck and keep everyone posted.
Carl

Quote:
Originally Posted by todehnal View Post
Thanks Carl. Iíve made a little progress in the process. Iíve ordered the Comply HC-NR10 headset. For $60, it provides the complete stereo headset, including a volume control, everything that I need for the receive side, with the exception of the correct plug on the end to accommodate a standard aircraft jack. Surely I can figure that out. In fact, my hope is to find an adapter so that I can use the in-ear headset for other purposes, if desired. My plan is to keep the in-ear headset and headband/mic, as two separate units.

Now for the headband/mic assembly: As I mentioned, I have a sample headband fabricated. I found, in my old goodie box, a brand new David Clark M-7A mic, still in the package. I had bought it a long time ago, thinking that I had a bad one, which turned out to be wrong. I think that it was only about a $30 item. I do have a couple of good functioning DC headsets, but I wonít scavenge parts off of them. They will stay in my Cub.

What to do?? Do I break this new mic apart to see if there is a chip in there? My thoughts are that there is. This mic assembly is a bit larger than it would be if I separated the chip from the actual mic itself, as you did, but I donít think that it will add objectionable weight to the headband. I may just try attaching this to my headband with a small cable and a mic plug on the end to see if it even has a prayer of working. Canít wait for my comply headset to get here. Iím excited!!

What am I missing here? The way that I see it, with the above approach I think that I only need the following items:

Headset plug adapter - to go from the headset cord plug to the A/C radio jack
Mic plug - to go on the end of the headband mic cord and plug into the A/C radio jack
And some wire. Did you use shielded or not?

Thanks again for the follow up. I really want to make this work.

The Saga continues,

Tom
__________________
Carl Peters
St. Louis, MO
RV-9A finishing kit
http://www.mykitlog.com/cnpeters
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 10-20-2007, 09:18 PM
RV-3Bravo RV-3Bravo is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pearland, TX
Posts: 391
Default

I would like to make one myself, could you guys help me out and make a shopping list from scratch??
__________________
Stephen Johnston ~ Pearland, TX
RV-3B EMP
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 10-21-2007, 09:48 AM
jcmcdowell jcmcdowell is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 275
Thumbs up Just Finished....

Quote:
Originally Posted by rvwannabe View Post
I would like to make one myself, could you guys help me out and make a shopping list from scratch??
Aircraft Spruce: some part #'s

A1060 Black Mic 11-04838 $17.50 (noise reduction mic)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/20...l/Cat08553.pdf

Headset Extension 5' 11-10640 $39.00 (great b/c you don't need to wire plugs)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/20...l/Cat08557.pdf

Cable Junction Box 11-02743 $6.30 (fits perfectly)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/20...l/Cat08557.pdf

misc heat shrink tubing-?
piano hinge wire (6')-?

Radio Shack:
small 2pack 3.5mm stereo jack panel mount $2.99
assorted grommets $(approx)2.99

noise reduction stereo headset with comply tips with inline volume control $39.95
(or you could get the shure or something better someplace else)

No pictures right now, but here's what I did-

THE WIRING:

I took the cable junction box (it has one wire in port and 2 wires out- like a Y) and drilled a 1/4" hole in the side to mount the mini 3.55mm stereo jack inside.

I took the headset extensions and separated the wires (mic/phones)

MIC- the little jack (mic) wire runs THROUGH the cable junction box UNCUT. I left about 6-8inches from the jack to the junction box. Cut the female connector and strip back the casing 1/4". peel back shielding, cut red wire (not used), the black and the uninsulated common are wired into the mic.

You want to install the mini grommets on the wire before installing in the box and mic.

PHONES- the big jack wire you cut to extend beyond the cable junction box about the same distance to the middle of the box. strip back the wire to reveal the red, black, and common. INSTALL GROMMET NOW.

If you have a mono headset- the red and black get tied together. You solder the red/black to the two leads on the back of the 3.55mm jack and the common gets soldered to the side tab. Make everything nice and tight to fit inside the little junction box. AGAIN- for mono, red and black are joined. For stereo, they need to be separated.

Install the grommets and screw the little cable junction box together! Install the nut on the 3.55mm stereo jack and you're done with that part!

THE HEADSET:

I ground the MIC down to remove the material where the mic would attach on a standard headset boom using the 3m wheel.

I used a vice to bend the steel piano hinge wire and compared it to the Quiet Tech Halo headset I have. The piano hinge wire is STIFF- it's good because it rebounds like a spring. I found it good to bend around the head and tab down at a 45deg angle past the ears.

FLEXIBLE BOOM: I wanted to be able to adjust the mic slightly. We experimented and found a 10-14ga copper wire worked great (a 4" scrap from wiring the garage). We wrapped the steel pin and copper wire with a bare 24ga multistrand wire and soldered it together on high heat (700deg). Then I cleaned up the joint on the 3m wheel. The copper is more flexible than the steel pin. Practice once before doing the final- we used an alligator clip to hold it together to get some solder on it.

TEST FIT- ADJUST- TEST FIT- ADJUST- ETC.....

I planned on using 1min epoxy on the copper wire to the mic- so I taped it onto the wire temporarily to get the alignment pretty close before gluing.

OK EVERYTHING LOOKS GOOD! YOU'RE READY TO PUT IT ALL TOGETHER!

You need to install the shrink wrap first. I kept the stereo headset separate so I could replace down the road. The mic wire worked best for me running over the ear and then off the headset. Before you wire the MIC and mount the MIC, slip the heat shrink over the MIC WIRE, copper wire, and onto the steel hinge pin wire up to where you want the wire to come off the headset. DON'T HEAT SHRINK YET! Then install smaller heat shrink tube around the other side to slip inside the larger heat shrink for a nice fit and finish(leave it a little long and trim RIGHT before heating).

Wire the MIC- black and uninsulated common. Doesn't matter which side. I had to solder a 20ga lead onto the wires to get them to the right size to use the screw down posts on the MIC. Make sure the MIC wires are secured in the MIC.

Mix up your Epoxy- HINT- use more catalyst to insure a quick setup- that's the colored stuff. spread a little on the mic (I had the wire install on the flat back side of the MIC so the MIC was closer to my mouth.) then use a small pair of vice grips to hold the wire and mic together. Add more epoxy to the wire to fill the fillets. LET SETUP!

After the epoxy is non sticky (Vise grips still on), you can slip the Heat Shrink down to fit over the wires to the MIC to make a clean looking termination at the MIC. Once everything is looking good with the heatshrink- HEAT IT UP!

Install MIC muff- GO FLY!

CAVEAT EMPTOR!

I wired up the box and mic and then tested everything in the cockpit before moving onto final assembly.

FLIGHT TESTING:

I went and flew for about an hour with the DIY headset and my Dad wearing the Quiet Tech Halo. It was so quiet, for a moment I thought there might be something off with the airplane. Previously, I couldn't get the gain set correctly on other headsets MIC and the cockpit noise overpowered the noise reduction and squelch. Not so now.

The only issue I could determine was the loose wires from the headphones. A little wire management would do wonders. I'm glad I kept the headphones separate from the headset- the radio shack noise reduction headset is a little cheap and the inline volume control is VERY sensitive. It's nice to be able to switch out headphones. The noise reduction on the MIC worked very well in conjunction with my 2 place intercom. I noticed for the first time that one of my radios is putting out more static than the other. Some clips to keep the wires loose so they don't pull when you turn your head is important as well, I would get some noise bleed around the ear plugs if turned my head sharply because the wires pulled a little.

The little cable junction box is GREAT! smaller than my HALO junction box.

Overall- For less than $100 (depending on your headphone choices) a good project to save $250 over the HALO and even more over the Clarity Aloft.

Of course the packaging is nothing close to the QT Halo, but that's $150 more for fuel!
__________________
jcmcdowell-
sold my RV9a kit
bought a flying RV7 taildragger
sold my RV7
I am a flightless bird!
VAF #976
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 10-24-2007, 09:11 PM
jyates jyates is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: 2500' above Godzone
Posts: 7
Default

Howdy,

I found the links to this forum after stumbling across Drew Chaplin's website while trying to 're-find' Nick Ugolini's "Cup-less Headset" website...

After taking inspiration and some ideas from all of the those who have made these... and finally sourcing an old headset (a Telex Airman 750 -100 model)... I have started work on my very own In Ear Headset...

I have built the frame, attached the boom mic from the Telex, wired up a junction box with the aircraft plugs, a 2.5mm socket (for mic line) and a 3.5mm socket for the headset... I've tested the mic (using a home built adapter that lets me plug it into the PC) so I know thats working OK...

However I am now having some issues sourcing the in-ear headphones... I would like to get a set of the Comply NR10's with the inline volume control, but they are not available locally within in New Zealand.

There are plenty of retailers online who sell them, but they either will not ship to New Zealand, or will only use Fedex/UPS etc and want to charge as much (if not more) for the shipping as for the headset itself!

The cheapest I have found so far are B&H (www.bhphotovideo.com) who charge $69.95 for the headset and $36.05 for the shipping...

So can anyone recommend a retailer that:

a. sells the NR10's
b. will ship to New Zealand
c. will do so for less than US$20! (I dont mind waiting 2 or 3 weeks for standard postal service)

Failing that, perhaps someone can recommend some alternative earphones, that a compatible with the comply tips, that I might be able to source locally...

regards,
Jared

Update 29/10/2007: Yay... A friend of mine currently living in New Jersey is coming back to New Zealand in December... he has kindly offered to 'courier' these back for me... so the Hearing Components NR-10's have been purchased for US$70 and shipped for US$4.95... now I just need to wait for a few weeks to get my 'phones!

I tested the frame, mic and box in one of the aircraft over the weekend... UNICOM was reading me at 5... granted it was sitting on the ground with the engine off, but its nice to know my dodgy soldering was OK now I just need to get a ride as a passenger so I can test the mic inflight to make sure that it cancels noise as well as I hope it does!

Last edited by jyates : 10-28-2007 at 09:12 PM. Reason: progress has been made!
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 11-06-2007, 12:46 PM
todehnal todehnal is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Kentucky Lakes area in KY
Posts: 839
Default Success!!

I finished and tested my new, homemade, in the ear, headset. I used the Comply NR10 earphones with the volume control. The first one that they sent me was intermittent, but the replacement that they sent works perfect.

I took the advice of previous posts and kept the systems separate. I built the mic part from piano wire, (the 3rd headband was the charm) a complete David Clark M7A noise cancelling mic, thin, shielded, mic cable, PJ068 mic plug, and some heat shrink. Total investment was right at $100, but I already had the little mic.

Try it, you'll like it.

Tom
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:42 AM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.