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Baffle - Lower cowl interface

Drippy

Well Known Member
Guys,

I am trying to fit the lower cowling back on after putting on the baffle and find that the forward left baffle (1002A) would have to be cut back to the OD of the SCAT hose attachement.

I was thinking about cutting back the aft end of the lower cowling inlet about .5".

Anyone else have to do something similar? I didn't see anything in the instruction from vans about reducing the length of the cowl inlet but can't see how it would hurt anything.

Mike
 
Trim

Bob,

Thank you, I did see step 5, but read that to be trimming the baffle 1002A.

My issue and it may be that I made a mistake somewhere else it that my overlap between the baffle and cowl is so great I would have to remove the front ear and rivet holding the hose connector.

Sorry I wish I could insert a picture to better show the issue.

One idea is maybe I don't have enough bend in my ramp (1002) if it was bent at a greater angle down then back up at the bend it would take more ramp to cover the distance.

Thanks again
 
Bob,

my overlap between the baffle and cowl is so great I would have to remove the front ear and rivet holding the hose connector.

Thanks again

As I recall I trimmed right up to that rivet, taking a bit of the 'ear' off. My flexible black rubber-like sealing strip partially covers the heater inlet there. No problem, plenty of heat in winter.
 
As I recall I trimmed right up to that rivet, taking a bit of the 'ear' off. My flexible black rubber-like sealing strip partially covers the heater inlet there. No problem, plenty of heat in winter.

This is not uncommon at all.
 
solved - maybe

I think I got it fixed. I cut the baffle right back, through the rivet and reriveted closer to the cylinder.

I also trimmed about 1/4 from the back of the cowling to match the drawing.

Thank you for the help.
 
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