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  #1  
Old 10-10-2014, 02:51 PM
Stockmanreef Stockmanreef is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Midland, mi
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Default Question: Riveting Bottom Skins

Before I embark on riveting the bottom skins on, I figured I would ask how to do it. I think that I can figure out the outboard skin, but how the heck do you rivet on the inboard ribs that are close together. Also the plans say to rivet the inboard skin along the rear spar, back half of the ribs, and the J-channel. Do you leave some of the rear spar and ribs so the skin can be pulled back?

Are there any good videos out there on riveting on the bottom skins?

thanks
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  #2  
Old 10-10-2014, 03:40 PM
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bruceh bruceh is offline
 
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Location: Ramona, CA
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Assuming the -14 wing is similar to the -9, you first put the bottom skin on with about 3 or 4 rows of clecos starting from the rear spar and then moving forward.
You can pull the skin back and get under there to buck. I used some duct tape to help keep it folded back. As you progress row by row forward from the rear spar it gets tighter and tighter to access from the forward edge. You should be able to do the remaining inboard panel rivets under the wing walk by reaching in through the holes in the wing ribs from either side, or use the access panel hole.

If you don't yet have a small tungsten bucking bar, now would be the time to get one.
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  #3  
Old 10-11-2014, 04:59 AM
Ron B. Ron B. is offline
 
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I followed Van's riveting instructions to the letter and it worked out for me. If I remember correctly the rivets next to the flap hinge (brackets) were the toughest ones for me.
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  #4  
Old 10-11-2014, 07:59 AM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Default Lanyard

Get some Gorilla tape and string. Make a lanyard so you don't drop the bar.
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  #5  
Old 10-11-2014, 08:12 AM
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MikeyDale MikeyDale is offline
 
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Location: Garden City Texas
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I just installed my bottom outboard skins this week without any helpers. (Quick Build wings)The first one was a real battle but the second one was much easier as I learned how to position myself. My arms took a beating and I noticed after the first one they were bruised up close to my shoulders.
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  #6  
Old 10-11-2014, 09:14 AM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Default Arms

It helps a little to wear long sleeves or cut the toes out of some old tube socks and slide them over your arms.
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HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
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  #7  
Old 10-11-2014, 10:15 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wirejock View Post
Get some Gorilla tape and string. Make a lanyard so you don't drop the bar.
My preferred method...
Stuff some old towels in the bay you are working in and lay them out on the skin at the bottom (laying on inner surface of top skin). That way, if you do drop the bar the skin is protected (it also gives you something a little nicer for your arm to rest against).
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  #8  
Old 10-11-2014, 03:19 PM
Stockmanreef Stockmanreef is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron B. View Post
I followed Van's riveting instructions to the letter and it worked out for me. If I remember correctly the rivets next to the flap hinge (brackets) were the toughest ones for me.
Maybe I am interpreting the plans wrong:

"Cleco the W-0004L Bottom Invboard Wing Skin to the bottom flange of the rear spar, to the aft half of the wing ribs, and to the wing box J stiffener short."

So the skin is clecoed up to the J-stiffener before you start riveting. It would be much easier to cleco the rear spar, then part of the ribs (not up the j-stiffener).

Not saying easier is the correct way to do it.
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  #9  
Old 10-11-2014, 04:59 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stockmanreef View Post
Maybe I am interpreting the plans wrong:

"Cleco the W-0004L Bottom Invboard Wing Skin to the bottom flange of the rear spar, to the aft half of the wing ribs, and to the wing box J stiffener short."

So the skin is clecoed up to the J-stiffener before you start riveting. It would be much easier to cleco the rear spar, then part of the ribs (not up the j-stiffener).

Not saying easier is the correct way to do it.
You're interpreting it correctly.

The goal is to have the skin clecoed down as much as possible to assure alignment, but still allow access inside.
With it clecoed as described, the skin will pull open enough for the bucking arm can reach in from front towards the back for riveting the J stiffener, and everything aft of that (the reason long sleeves were recommended already). Then the skin can be fully clecoed down, and everything else is accessible from each end, and through the access cover holes.
Do as much as you can on the outboard skin first, then cleco on the inboard skin and repeat.
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  #10  
Old 01-21-2018, 03:37 AM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ponte Vedra, FL
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Resurrecting another old thread. I have QB wings. Questions about riveting the outboard bottom wing skins:

1. On page 20-04, the very last instruction is to rivet the overlap joint. I'm confused by this - shouldn't I rivet the aft-most parts of this join sooner, since the skin needs to be rolled back to access for riveting the aft section of skin (as is done on the rest of the skin.

2. How important is the chamfering of skin edges as described on page 16-02? The builders of my QB wing didn't bother to do this on the inboard skin as far as I can tell, and I am not too concerned about the cosmetics. I did ease the forward edges of bottom skins just a bit.
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