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  #11  
Old 01-21-2018, 04:03 AM
wilddog wilddog is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: va.
Posts: 353
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Good tips in these post. One more, it is very difficult to inspect the shop head side of some rivets. Press your finger against it for a min. The shop head will make an impression on your fingertip and you can get an idea of its condition from that impression.
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  #12  
Old 01-21-2018, 04:24 AM
control control is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Posts: 516
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I got myself a telescope handle with a mirror and light at the end to be able to do a better inspection.
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  #13  
Old 01-21-2018, 12:35 PM
salto salto is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Wee Waa Australia
Posts: 257
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I got one of those borescopes for $18 which plug straight into the phone. It's been a very useful tool.
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Kit 140241
Tail Feathers done
Fuselage kit completed.
wings almost complete.
Flaps and ailerons done.
Canopy next. Phew!
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  #14  
Old 01-21-2018, 04:25 PM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ponte Vedra, FL
Posts: 643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mturnerb View Post
Resurrecting another old thread. I have QB wings. Questions about riveting the outboard bottom wing skins:

1. On page 20-04, the very last instruction is to rivet the overlap joint. I'm confused by this - shouldn't I rivet the aft-most parts of this join sooner, since the skin needs to be rolled back to access for riveting the aft section of skin (as is done on the rest of the skin.

2. How important is the chamfering of skin edges as described on page 16-02? The builders of my QB wing didn't bother to do this on the inboard skin as far as I can tell, and I am not too concerned about the cosmetics. I did ease the forward edges of bottom skins just a bit.
Great responses in the thread, but still looking for thoughts/suggestions on these two questions..

Thanks
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  #15  
Old 01-21-2018, 04:35 PM
DeltaVee47 DeltaVee47 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 26
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I donít know about others but I could not reach to rivet these skins with the wing flat on a table so I put mine in the slings, used the towel trick to hold the skins apart, then got on my knees and reached in and up. Iím 5-9 and could juuuuust reach all of them. You will need to be able to buck with either hand.
Good luck
Greg Beckner
N557GB reserved
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  #16  
Old 01-21-2018, 05:15 PM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ponte Vedra, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeltaVee47 View Post
I donít know about others but I could not reach to rivet these skins with the wing flat on a table so I put mine in the slings, used the towel trick to hold the skins apart, then got on my knees and reached in and up. Iím 5-9 and could juuuuust reach all of them. You will need to be able to buck with either hand.
Good luck
Greg Beckner
N557GB reserved
What's the towel trick?
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https://turnerb14a.blogspot.com/
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  #17  
Old 01-22-2018, 06:01 AM
MED MED is online now
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Aiken, SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mturnerb View Post
What's the towel trick?
See Scott's post.
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  #18  
Old 01-22-2018, 07:27 AM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
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I found the RV14 wing skin a little easier to rivet than the -8, or -6 because I believe the wing skin is a little narrower from the main spar flange to the aft spar, so you don't need to have such long arms. Starting at the aft spar in my wing sling and working my way forward (down) while seated in a rolling work chair it wasn't that difficult, especially after you have a few rivets in each rib and don't have to reach in so far.

To Turner - concerning the wing skin overlap joint, I think the reason you wait until the end to rivet this overlap may be because if there's any minor misalignment up to this point, having two lines of rivets allows the most 'forgiveness' without compromising the integrity of the wing structure. It worked well for me anyway.
As far as why chamfer the inboard edge, and why didn't the original builder do that to the inboard section - this is to make it lay down nice and flush after riveting, rather having it look like a piece of bacon (I'm exaggerating). No need to do that on the underlying piece of skin, and as you say, it's cosmetic - and in the bottom of the - low - wing. I did it to all 4 sets of wings I've built because I like the look, and it only took about 60 seconds....
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2001 RV-6 - sold 2005
2008 RV-8 Fastback - Sold 2016
RV-14 Wings - sold 2014
RV4 - Sold
Cessna 182RG - flying
New RV8 - Finished and flying 4/26/18
Cincinnati, OH/KHAO

Last edited by Scott Hersha : 01-22-2018 at 07:30 AM.
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  #19  
Old 01-22-2018, 11:10 AM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ponte Vedra, FL
Posts: 643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Hersha View Post
I found the RV14 wing skin a little easier to rivet than the -8, or -6 because I believe the wing skin is a little narrower from the main spar flange to the aft spar, so you don't need to have such long arms. Starting at the aft spar in my wing sling and working my way forward (down) while seated in a rolling work chair it wasn't that difficult, especially after you have a few rivets in each rib and don't have to reach in so far.

To Turner - concerning the wing skin overlap joint, I think the reason you wait until the end to rivet this overlap may be because if there's any minor misalignment up to this point, having two lines of rivets allows the most 'forgiveness' without compromising the integrity of the wing structure. It worked well for me anyway.
As far as why chamfer the inboard edge, and why didn't the original builder do that to the inboard section - this is to make it lay down nice and flush after riveting, rather having it look like a piece of bacon (I'm exaggerating). No need to do that on the underlying piece of skin, and as you say, it's cosmetic - and in the bottom of the - low - wing. I did it to all 4 sets of wings I've built because I like the look, and it only took about 60 seconds....
Scott - this is very helpful. Even though I have long arms, reaching the aft-most rivets in that double row will be very hard if I do it after all other rivets are done -so I may do a few inches of the row before. The "original builder" in this case is Van's QB folks in the Philippines: I have found a few little glitches like this but nothing that can't easily be addressed. Regarding the chamfering, I agree - the cosmetics are not crucial to me. I'm not building a show plane here!
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