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  #11  
Old 01-15-2018, 11:22 AM
control control is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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When I finally set the restrictor at the gun so far in that the gun would not even move and then increased a little from there.

Unfortunately I did close to 1000 rivets with the pressure set to high. My Vertical stabilizer is airworthy for sure but I would no be surprised if I order replacement parts and make a new one within five years.
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  #12  
Old 01-15-2018, 11:56 AM
PHXflyer PHXflyer is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike S View Post
Roman, welcome aboard the good ship VAF
Thanks! I've been reading this forum for the past few months. I've read everything from posts on performance specs (different models) to vernier vs. quadrant for throttle controls (-14). I finally ordered my -14A empennage last week and have been getting my garage ready for delivery. I realized I need to focus back on the basics. I've practiced riveting but I know I have much to learn. Like the original poster, I've been wondering the same thing about riveting and at what point the confidence level comes in.
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  #13  
Old 01-15-2018, 12:35 PM
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HAL Pilot HAL Pilot is offline
 
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I built the tool box practice kit and two of the airfoil shaped practice kits with my son. Good practice with actual materials and had plenty of drill out practice along the way.
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  #14  
Old 01-15-2018, 08:54 PM
Jake14 Jake14 is offline
 
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Location: Seattle
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PHXflyer: ".....I ordered the one without the rubber collar. Hopefully it will work fine, but I'm thinking of also ordering the swivel head just in case......"

there are basically 2 ways to rivet:
1. someone bucks the rivet while another uses the gun
2. doing both gun and bucking bar yourself

In 1) the person on the gun has both hands to align and hold the gun steady, usually one hand on the trigger and the other holding the set steady and in alignment (careful not to pinch your fingers)

A non-swivel head is fine here, and usually works better than the swivel

in 2) it's often very hard to get perfect alignment of the set using just one hand on the gun and reaching around to buck with the other. Also the set tends to move wherever gravity pulls it.

for cases like this a swivel head with the rubber edges is much less likely to cause damage and slide.

I sanded the rubber down a bit on the swivel head I used, but left enough to require pressure to touch the work
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  #15  
Old 01-16-2018, 06:19 AM
StuBob StuBob is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Indianapolis, IN
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I'm no expert, but I've found that I have much more confidence and get better results on the 3/16" rivets when using the 2x gun.
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  #16  
Old 01-16-2018, 09:07 AM
rv8ch rv8ch is offline
 
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Location: LSGG
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Default youtube

There are some good videos on youtube, like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zQaMz7rtqY

I was lucky enough to learn at a "build center" when I built my tail kit - it was very helpful.
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  #17  
Old 01-16-2018, 03:13 PM
TASEsq TASEsq is online now
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
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I found this whole A&P series to be very good. https://youtu.be/47uE43CgKOQ

As is both Les Bourne’s DVD, and John Croke’s DVD also.
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  #18  
Old 01-17-2018, 12:10 PM
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ppilotmike ppilotmike is offline
 
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Default Swivel Head Flush Set..

..and blue painter's tape. I use a small piece of tape combined with the swivel head flush set to get perfectly driven rivets with no marks on the skins. Every 15-20 rivets, I change the small piece of tape on the swivel head. I found that a roll of 1" blue tape works perfectly. It also helps to 1) secure the work, 2) have an adjustable hookup on the gun, so you can adjust the air pressure as needed, and 3) get a second set of hands to buck, if needed.
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  #19  
Old 01-17-2018, 12:40 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 402
Default Best advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake14 View Post
I think some of the things which I learned the hard way were:

1. ALWAYS clamp the work so it won't move or bounce
2. Resist the temptation to turn up the pressure to get it done faster
3. Use the swivel head, but you still have to make sure it's straight
4. The non-swivel head is great for tight places and fixing proud rivet heads
4. always use riveting tape to avoid blemishing the skin
5. Use a tungsten bucking bar
6. Don't pull the trigger and hope for the best, get everything lined up perfectly. Don't be impatient
7. Invest in a pneumatic squeezer and a DRDT-2 dimpler
8. When using a squeezer, use a faucet washer or similar on the shop side to squeeze the material together when setting the rivet
9. And before you start drilling out a questionable rivet, always remember:

(from page 5-04)
"Poorly set and cracked rivet heads were tested in tension to determine how well formed a head has to be in order to develop full strength. The tensile strengths of all the rivets were within five percent of the strongest. The test indicated that minor deviations from the theoretically desired shape of head are not cause for concern or replacement. The second rivet that is driven in any one hole [is] likely to be more defective than the first because the hole is enlarged and [the] rivet will be more likely to buckle......"
The only rivets i will drill out 100% of the time are clinched rivets. These are usually due to not clamping the work or not paying attention (#6 above)
The only time I use a faucet washer or piece of model fuel tubing is to keep the rivet in place, or to keep the pieces together before riveting. Otherwise I tend to get more clinched rivets. YMMV
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WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for thier use.

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  #20  
Old 01-17-2018, 01:27 PM
StuBob StuBob is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Indianapolis, IN
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MODEL FUEL TUBING!!! I keep reading about putting rubber grommets on rivets and wondering how I could make such a thing....
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