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Engine mounting problem

acam37

Well Known Member
I posted over in the "traditional engines" forum about a problem I'm having with the dynafocal bushings not lining up correctly to the mount. Does anyone have some pictures of their engine that I could use to compare a correct installation compared to what I have? I'd like to see the distance between the firewall and fuel pump and also the cabin heater flapper bracket. For some reason my engine has 3/4" spacers between the lord mount bushings and the engine block. That's the reason things aren't lining up correctly.
 
Spacers

The spacers do sound right. Do you have pictures? I can send pics of my RV4 as I should have the cowl off later today or tomorrow.
 
Arlie,

I went back and read your original post.

As others have said, once you get rid of those 3/4" spacers and mount your engine properly you might have a slight interference with the fuel pump drain fitting at the firewall. Van's used to sell a 90? fitting for this; if they don't sell it anymore, you can probably make something up yourself. This was a common problem back in the early RV-4 days but certainly not reason enough to shim the engine like that. Doesn't look safe to me; just curious, how long did it run that way?

You will probably have to do some extensive cowl work to make everything fit after removing those spacers.
 
Pat, since we've had this plane it's never left the shop except for an occasional update picture out in the sun. We bought it storm damaged as a rebuild project. As for the previous owner, his dad was the builder and TT on the airframe is a little over 400 hrs. The reason we decided to replace the bushings in the first place is because they too were deformed like you saw in the picture and we just thought they were wore out. After removing them, one Bushing had the rubber broke loose from the steel backing it is bonded to. So eventually if it remains in its current configuration the new ones will do the same. Sort of like breaking an Oreo cookie apart to get to the creamy filling.
 
Arlie,

I went back and read your original post.

As others have said, once you get rid of those 3/4" spacers and mount your engine properly you might have a slight interference with the fuel pump drain fitting at the firewall. Van's used to sell a 90? fitting for this; if they don't sell it anymore, you can probably make something up yourself. This was a common problem back in the early RV-4 days but certainly not reason enough to shim the engine like that. Doesn't look safe to me; just curious, how long did it run that way?

You will probably have to do some extensive cowl work to make everything fit after removing those spacers.

I think Vans still sells the part -

http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin...128-9&browse=engines&product=overflow-fitting

cat-med_overflow-fitting.jpg
 
Once you get everything squared away with your engine, what I would do is remove the prop and make yourself a disk to bolt right to the crank that simulates the back of your spinner plate. I had one made up out of acrylic which is nice because you can see through it to fit the cowl. You may have to make some spacers for the crank bolts to obtain the proper spacing between your disk and the crank. Don't forget to allow for the desired gap between spinner and cowl.

Once you have a disk (plywood works too), it's just a matter of clamping the forward canopy halves to this disk and determine what you have to trim in the back. I made a lot of large holes in the disk to facilitate clamping the cowl. Lots of trial and fit.

Anyway, you probably have a plan, this is just a suggestion. :)
 
Vans Part

I tried that part on mine and it didn't work, still touching the firewall.

I ended up doing what the previous owner did and tapped the drain fitting on the bottom and installed a plug in the drain port. Works great, it's only a case drain there is no pressure on it and now have no problem and have the standard shims on the engine.
 
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More Issues

After removing the spacers and installing the Vans fuel pump overflow tube, and relocating the heater box, the engine mounts fit like a glove. One issue solved only to have another one. What do I do to make the rear intake manifolds fit? there is no way they will hook up in the current configuration. This is becoming a nightmare. The mount is correct, the Lord mounts are correct and installed exactly the way the book says they are supposed to go. So why won't the rear intake manifolds fit? It's an older 0-320-E2G, but so is the plane.
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After removing the spacers and installing the Vans fuel pump overflow tube, and relocating the heater box, the engine mounts fit like a glove. One issue solved only to have another one. What do I do to make the rear intake manifolds fit? there is no way they will hook up in the current configuration. This is becoming a nightmare. The mount is correct, the Lord mounts are correct and installed exactly the way the book says they are supposed to go. So why won't the rear intake manifolds fit? It's an older 0-320-E2G, but so is the plane.
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There is only one type 1 dyna mount for the -4, there are engines that are not accommodated, based on your intake interference your is probably one that does not fit, you probably need to shop for the correct sump etc., one that will fit. I?m sure you will get plenty of feedback as how exactly to get this straitened out.
 
By looking at other engines, I apparently have the wrong type of bottom end. I wonder how much this screw up is going to cost me?
 
I bet the spacers were there so the tubes would clear the mount :rolleyes:

I installed a cold air sump from Superior. I still have the old sump and tubes in my shop. It came from a 320 B2B. Let me know if you are interested.
 
I have an O-320 sump available...

sump-1_zps852ca0df.jpg


Light corrosion on the steel intake tubes, it cleans off with scotchbrite. The tubes are solid and are the larger diameter tubes I believe.

I have the four intake tubes too.
 
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OK guys, that's great news. I thought I was going to be looking for a new engine. Axel also has the right sump just laying around. I PM'ed him earlier.
 
I went ahead and pulled the sump today. This is what it looks like.
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My next question is for the engine guys. Will a different sump, such as the one Gil posted, bolt up to my engine? I can already see a few problems. (1) the carb positions are different. (2) the oil pickup tube will be in a different spot. Mine has a screen right in the middle of the sump. (3) with a different sump and intake tubes, will I have to change the exhaust pipes too? All this just because the Lord mounts wouldn't line up. Please tell me I'm not the only one out there that runs into these kinds of problems.
 
Arlie,

I just got off the phone with Larry Vetterman and he's saying that Axel's sump is basically the same one you have now and that Gil's sump is actually the correct one for your dynafocal engine. Here is a copy of the email he sent me a bit ago (I guess Larry has no way to post on VAF):

Pat, this guy needs to call me. He has a conical style sump on a dyna focal engine and now Axel is sending him the same thing. I can straighten this mess out in 5 minutes. I don't do posts on VAF and saw your email address. Larry Vetterman. 605-745-5932.
 
I was not going to send arlie the sump without checking first. That was the exact conversation we just had.

I am glad Larry reads these post. That is good stuff right there. He helped me out with an exhaust for my plane.
 
I spoke with Larry on the phone and he lined me out. I need to swap my conical style sump with a dynafocal style sump. So I guess my ENGINE MOUNTING PROBLEM has been solved. Just add this to the long list of things to look for when buying a used RV. Make sure the engine is properly installed by the builder.
 
I spoke with Larry on the phone and he lined me out. I need to swap my conical style sump with a dynafocal style sump. So I guess my ENGINE MOUNTING PROBLEM has been solved. Just add this to the long list of things to look for when buying a used RV. Make sure the engine is properly installed by the builder.

The real notice of a problem was the existence of the 3/4 inch spacers.

Always ask what extra "stuff" is doing in any location. :)

PS ... check your regular email listed on VAF
 
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