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Garmin GEA24 Annunciator Lts TEST

S

supik

Well Known Member
I am wondering if I can wire the MASTER WARN & CAUTION lights this way, so that I can perform the light test by a dedicated switch.. Could there be any harm to the GEA24 when the PUSH to Test button is depressed and the GEA24 would simultaneously ground one of the pins to activate the lights?

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Only Garmin can tell you for sure as the answer is highly dependent on the internal circuit design. But well designed I/O systems have isolation and protections against over voltage, shortages and reverse polarity. If this is an OPEN/GND type output it's probably fine.

The best test method would actually be to "ask" the GEA24 to test the lights. Of course that would require Garmin to provide the S/W functionality to do so, if they haven't already.
 
Easy. The discretes are active low (ground). You supply power to each light and wire the other side (ground if it's an LED) to the discrete out. The GEA provides a ground to turn on the light. So you split the wire going to the GEA-24 and wire it to ground through a test switch. You will have a "signal ground" (the GEA-24), and a "test" ground. You can't use one switch for both lights unless you use a 2-pole switch. Your drawing works, but each light will need it's own pole on the test switch.
 
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Mike & Michael thank you for your replies!

Would there be any other solution than using a DPST switch to separate the negative poles at the TEST GROUND? Actually I wanted to test 7 lights in total (5 of these are independent of GEA).

My goal is to go with a 3throw switch (TEST / BRIGHT / DIM) but no idea how to separate the grounds at the negative test pole with that many lights.

Thanks,
 
This seems to be working on the 'test bench' - do I miss anything? The only thing I don't like is the complexity with adding the diodes, but I haven't come up with a better solution yet.

The upper 2 indicators would be MASTER WARN & MASTER CAUT normally grounded by GEA24; the lower indicator lamp is independent of GEA..

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Why not make another input to the GEA as an active low and label it test and hook you test switch to it. This way you are not only checking your lights but the GEA-24.


Jay
 
In practice

Unless you want to test the lights in flight, I question the need for the test function for master warn and caution. If you configure the G3X inputs for red range +alert and yellow + alert, say for oil pressure and voltage you would have these lights on with master switch prior to start, thus ?tested?.
 
I created a row of 8 indicator lights with a 'Push to Test' button. I wired the GEA 24 indicator lights similar to what you show with the test button going to ground, and it works fine. However, in my panel I wired the indicator lights through relays. This made it easy to activate all the lights at once no matter if they were active low or active high. The relays also made it possible for me to run all the lights through one dimmer. It works great and it was a fun project.
 
I think your push-to-test switch needs to be between the two lights otherwise each of the discrete input will light up both WARN and Caution at the same time.
 
Mark H said:
I created a row of 8 indicator lights with a 'Push to Test' button. I wired the GEA 24 indicator lights similar to what you show with the test button going to ground, and it works fine. However, in my panel I wired the indicator lights through relays. This made it easy to activate all the lights at once no matter if they were active low or active high. The relays also made it possible for me to run all the lights through one dimmer. It works great and it was a fun project.
Click to expand...

Mark, would you share your schematics? Thanks,
 
Bavafa said:
I think your push-to-test switch needs to be between the two lights otherwise each of the discrete input will light up both WARN and Caution at the same time.
Click to expand...

This is true for my nr.1 post; but it's solved in post nr.5 -lamps have separate poles protected by diodes.
 
Igor,

I wish I had a schematic to share, but the best I have is probably some chicken scratches. I sourced relays and diodes from DigiKey and used a breadboard to layout the components. The circuit is fairly simple and not too different from what you have already drawn. Just use relays in place of your switches and place a dimmer in series between the power and lights. The relays will want 12+ volts, so for the active low indicators be sure to power the relay upstream of the dimmer. Hopefully that makes sense.
 
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