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  #1  
Old 05-03-2018, 07:47 PM
Bavafa Bavafa is online now
 
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Default Nose wheel axle bolt

I have installed the nose wheel axle bolt with all the spacer and washers per plan and it looks to be a bit too short. When I tighten the nut to a minimum of 90 inch/lb I am still one or two threads short of getting to the nylon portion of the nut but everything else looks OK. There is some friction on the wheel so it is certainly not turning freely but not too much friction and more importantly, the rubber on the bearing is not turning with the wheel. If I tighten the nut to get to the nylon portion then the friction on the wheel increases to the point that I donít think it is right.

I was wondering if anyone else has ran into this issue. I could get a longer bolt (AN6-66A) but I am wondering if something is amiss if I am the only one that has ran into this issue.
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  #2  
Old 05-04-2018, 07:14 AM
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Jared_Solomon Jared_Solomon is offline
 
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Location: Powder Springs, GA
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Default A good place for an upgrade

I was having trouble getting pre-load on the nosegear bearing that was I comfortable with and decided to upgrade the axle with a Matco Axle. With this axle you preload the wheel bearings with the axle assembly and then install the assembly in the fork. The AN bolt in the fork get's torqued to full spec, and the wheel turns with the friction set by the pre-load only

http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLY...dv-3657-1.html
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  #3  
Old 05-04-2018, 08:43 AM
Bavafa Bavafa is online now
 
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared_Solomon View Post
I was having trouble getting pre-load on the nosegear bearing that was I comfortable with and decided to upgrade the axle with a Matco Axle. With this axle you preload the wheel bearings with the axle assembly and then install the assembly in the fork. The AN bolt in the fork get's torqued to full spec, and the wheel turns with the friction set by the pre-load only

http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLY...dv-3657-1.html
Hi Jared,
I used the same axle on my 7A and I loved it. It takes all the guessing out for torqueing the axle nut. Of course the 7A doesn't have that solid piece (U-1009) that 14 has.
Did you have to use the space with the Matco axle or just the axle (part that you have sent link to)
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  #4  
Old 05-04-2018, 09:18 AM
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Jared_Solomon Jared_Solomon is offline
 
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Location: Powder Springs, GA
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Lightbulb Yes, I had to use the spacer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bavafa View Post
Hi Jared,
I used the same axle on my 7A and I loved it. It takes all the guessing out for torqueing the axle nut. Of course the 7A doesn't have that solid piece (U-1009) that 14 has.
Did you have to use the space with the Matco axle or just the axle (part that you have sent link to)
Sorry, I forgot about that!. Yes, I had to use the spacer as well.

http://www.matcomfg.com/SPACERAXLE24...v-3681-44.html
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  #5  
Old 05-04-2018, 09:39 AM
Nova RV Nova RV is offline
 
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Location: Leesburg, VA
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Default

Ditto on the Matco axle and .25 spacers, very simple and you can torque correctly.
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  #6  
Old 05-09-2018, 09:18 PM
Bavafa Bavafa is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nova RV View Post
Ditto on the Matco axle and .25 spacers, very simple and you can torque correctly.
Do you guys have the lighting hole in your fork? I ordered the Matco axle and the spacer but the 1/4" bolt hole is too close to a lighting hole with not a proper edge distance. How do you keep the axle from possibly turning with the wheel?
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  #7  
Old 05-14-2018, 05:40 PM
Jake14 Jake14 is offline
 
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The Matco instructions say to use a .1875 dia hole for the wider forks
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  #8  
Old 05-14-2018, 06:02 PM
Bavafa Bavafa is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake14 View Post
The Matco instructions say to use a .1875 dia hole for the wider forks
The hole 1/4"-20 that gets drilled into the fork to keep the axle from turning is too close to the lighting hole in the fork for the proper edge distance.
One option is to use a counter sink bolt and drill it away from the lighting hole or simply don't drill it. With the full torque of the AN6, there is hardly any chance for the axle to start turning with the wheel.
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  #9  
Old 05-14-2018, 09:12 PM
Jake14 Jake14 is offline
 
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Matco instructions say DO NOT drill a 1/4" hole...drill a .1875 hole in the wider forks which use the spacers. The .1875 hole may have adequate edge margin
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  #10  
Old 05-15-2018, 08:21 AM
Bavafa Bavafa is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake14 View Post
Matco instructions say DO NOT drill a 1/4" hole...drill a .1875 hole in the wider forks which use the spacers. The .1875 hole may have adequate edge margin
Would this be also a new hole in the spacer and the solid axle then? The instruction that came with mine does not indicate that or at least I did not see it. The solid axle already has a .25" drilled and tapped in it and obviously the .1875 size hole will not be useful for a .25" hole that is tapped.

Wouldn't it be easier to use a flush head screw and counter sink the fork?
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