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  #1  
Old 03-20-2018, 02:04 PM
Flandy10 Flandy10 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Peachtree City, GA
Posts: 108
Default Rv-10 TDI 1st Condition Complete

Well, it took about 2.5 months, but its back in the air- sort of.

The condition inspection went very well. RV guru Vic Syracuse gave the airframe a thorough inspection. He left the engine to me.

Punch list items--
1. Aileron SB inspection- completed- no cracks.
2. One brake master cylinder fitting weeping- resealed all 8.
3. Two small cracks in the inlet ramp baffles- stop drilled.


Modification list--
1. Upgraded rudder stop installed-recommended by Vic.
2. Reduced my aux battery system by half- saved about 8 lbs.
3. Installed an access door in aft bulkhead- Now just 10 screws instead of 35 to check the battery and aft equipment bay.
4. Enlarged oil cooler inlet and ducting

5. CMI installed a production version oil pump -- This was a huge disassembly job that is half of the reason for the lengthy condition. Checking to see if I can post photos.- standby.
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Rv-10 TDI #40816
Fayettevile, GA

2018 VAF Donation complete

Last edited by Flandy10 : 03-20-2018 at 02:31 PM.
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  #2  
Old 03-20-2018, 02:07 PM
Flandy10 Flandy10 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Peachtree City, GA
Posts: 108
Default

Now for the "sort of" answer....

During a post condition test flight, I found one of the eight induction clamps migrating. They're not supposed to move and didn't during the first 100 hours.


When your running 90" MAP at takeoff, you don't want ANY movement in these clamps.

Still troubleshooting the issue, but I did find that the migrating clamp's spring has gotten shorter compared to a new one.
Checking with manufacturer...

to be con't.
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Scott Flandermeyer
Rv-10 TDI #40816
Fayettevile, GA

2018 VAF Donation complete

Last edited by Flandy10 : 03-20-2018 at 02:33 PM.
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  #3  
Old 03-20-2018, 09:26 PM
unitink72 unitink72 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 141
Default Rudder stop

Never heard of an upgraded rudder stop. Got a link or pics?
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RV-10 #1750
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  #4  
Old 03-21-2018, 05:08 AM
vic syracuse vic syracuse is offline
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Location: Locust Grove, GA
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Default

One example is sold by Flyboy accessories, called the internal rudder stop. Or you can make your own from aluminum. The kit rudder stops have been known to break the rivets in high wind conditions when parked without securing the rudder. Mine included. It can happen while at a fuel stop when someone inadvertently pulls away with a lot of power and the prop blast is facing your RV10. When that happens the rudder contacts the elevator and usually leaves a dent or a hole in the rudder.

Vic
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Vic Syracuse

Built RV-4, RV-6, 2-RV-10's, RV-7A, RV-8, Prescott Pusher, Kitfox Model II, Kitfox Speedster, Kitfox 7 Super Sport, Just Superstol, DAR, A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor, CFII-ASMEL/ASES
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  #5  
Old 03-21-2018, 05:51 AM
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rv6ejguy rv6ejguy is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Calgary, Canada
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Thanks for posting your findings during the inspection Scott.
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Turbo Subaru EJ22, Marcotte M-300, IVO, RV6A C-GVZX flying from CYBW since 2003- 420 hrs. on the Hobbs,
RV10 95% built- Sold 2016
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  #6  
Old 03-21-2018, 06:07 AM
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DanH DanH is online now
 
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Location: 08A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vic syracuse View Post
One example is sold by Flyboy accessories, called the internal rudder stop.
And you believe the internal rudder stop is structurally better?
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  #7  
Old 03-21-2018, 06:19 AM
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Jesse Jesse is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: X35 - Ocala, FL
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The easiest way to upgrade the rudder stop is to replace the #4 rivets with #6 screws and nuts.
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RV Hotel (hangar, room, car) at X35 in north FL

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Dynamic Prop Balancing, Prebuy Inspections, Condition Inspections, Repairs and Mods, Injector Tuning, Airframe, Engine, Panel Upgrades, Ferrying, etc.
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  #8  
Old 03-21-2018, 06:51 AM
SabreFlyr SabreFlyr is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Marion, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
And you believe the internal rudder stop is structurally better?
Offhand, Dan, I'd guess "yes." The internal stop would be nylon against the heavier gauge aluminum rudder spar whereas the standard stop is heavier gauge aluminum against the lighter gauge aluminum skin. Granted, I believe the contact is where the skin is backed by a rib but the internal stop is contacting heavier gauge that is also backed by heavier gauge.
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RV-14 QB #140212
VS, rudder & elevators finished
HS started
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  #9  
Old 03-21-2018, 07:32 AM
vic syracuse vic syracuse is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
And you believe the internal rudder stop is structurally better?

Well, I haven't done any FEMA analysis on it, but after mine broke from a gust of wind and put a hole in the rudder, I made a solid piece similar to the nylon one provided by Flyboys. It hasn't broken since. Nor do I think it is now capable of breaking.

I see Jesse mentioned replacing the rivets with screws. I thought about that but didn't want to be a test bed again. I also think there is more surface area contacting the rudder now as well.

Vic
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Built RV-4, RV-6, 2-RV-10's, RV-7A, RV-8, Prescott Pusher, Kitfox Model II, Kitfox Speedster, Kitfox 7 Super Sport, Just Superstol, DAR, A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor, CFII-ASMEL/ASES
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Van's East Coast Representative
www.Baselegaviation.com

Last edited by vic syracuse : 03-21-2018 at 07:44 AM. Reason: spelling
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  #10  
Old 03-21-2018, 10:53 AM
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ppilotmike ppilotmike is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1,750
Default Extra Rear Bulkhead Material

Scott,

Did you have to order another complete rear bulkhead panel in order to make the doubler behind your door? If not, how did you get the material needed to do that door? I'm interested in following in your footsteps, but want to be sure not to reduce the structural capacity of the rear bulkhead. Thanks.
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EAA Chapter 301, President www.eaa301.org
VAF Dues Current: as of 01/15/18
RV-10 (41PX Reserved) Fuselage
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