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Dsub empty pin spots

TASEsq

Well Known Member
Patron
Probably a stupid question - if you only have 5 pins in the connector, do you install all the other pins? I don?t recall ever seeing one that didn?t have all the pins installed...

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https://photos.app.goo.gl/6y2eooBnmyThkfYi8

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https://photos.app.goo.gl/ANchQNHTL3uEbL5t6
 
Watching this one with interest. I've never installed unused pins in the connector, and can't really come up with a compelling reason to do so. Eager to hear from others though.
 
I only install the needed pins. Do not know why filling empty holes would be advantageous.

I think the practice is to not to put a pin into an empty slot. This makes it easy to debug the connection by looking at the socket in reverse to know which pins are wired and which are not.

I am an amateur at this wiring business. I potted the rear of the socket with some electrical liquid tape to seal the connection. Perhaps overkill in my case.
 
From a professional avionics guy, there are 2 reasons you may fill the empty slots. 1-some connectors are water tight and they are required for that reason. Not usually applicable to GA. 2- sometimes it?s a great way to have spare pins when you are in a bind.

Jay
 
The outer shell of the Dsub connectors is what "keys" the pins to reach their location, so additional pins do nothing to ensure a connection on an adjacent pin. Ergo, no, dont fill them.

But it doesnt hurt anything if you insist on doing so.

FWIW, I have 9 pin dsubs for my AP servos - only 3 pins in each.....
 
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I am an amateur at this wiring business. I potted the rear of the socket with some electrical liquid tape to seal the connection. Perhaps overkill in my case.

Me too. Learning everyday. I also was wondering how to make a dsub watertight - was thinking of filling the connector with rtv or a non-acid silicone etc. once I was 100% certain nothing else has to go in that connector of course! Is this the type of stuff you are talking about:
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/dynagrip-dynagrip-brush-on-electrical-tape---118ml/340189.html

Thanks for the replies - I also can’t think of a good reason but wasn’t certain. Sometimes there’s an obscure reason. It got me thinking when I couldn’t recall ever seeking a dsub on anything that wasn’t full.
 
Some folks might be used to seeing a pin in every hole becasue they have ben looking at solder-on connectors, not crimped on pins. Some harness-makers use the soldered connectors becasue they can be a lot cheaper than individual pins.

I have used crimped pins for decades, and only fill the holes I am using - I understand that if its a water-tight connection, you might do differently, but we just dont run in to those in most of our applications. I refrain from potting the connector becasue it makes it impossible to troubleshoot or modify later if you have to pull an individual pin - might as well use solder connectors in that case!

Paul
 
How would you get them back out again, unless you've crimped them to a short pigtail of wire?

Seems completely unnecessary.
 
How would you get them back out again, unless you've crimped them to a short pigtail of wire?
Seems completely unnecessary.

Using a pin extractor. If the extractor won't grip the pin tight enough, you can always gently push the pin out from the other side while the extractor is in place.
 
Thanks all,

Paul - congrats on your first flight!

I?m actually thinking now I might go with deutsch Dtm connectors - I can use the crimper I already have, and they work out cheaper than dsubs anyway (if you include the costs of the 2 backshells). Plus they can take 18-22 awg - be handy to be able to run 18 gauge on the connector without using 2 pins. (7.5 amps is the only limitation on the connector). Also waterproof. As an aside they have little plastic pins that get installed in the spare pin holes to keep the water out. At least for connectors in the tail or the wing roots - inside the cabin dsubs with no backshells would be perfect.
 
I have never filled empty D-Sub connections but in the wing-root as I have used Deutsch DT and DTM Connectors. There I have used those pins as mentioned before…

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Thanks all,

Paul - congrats on your first flight!

I?m actually thinking now I might go with deutsch Dtm connectors - I can use the crimper I already have, and they work out cheaper than dsubs anyway (if you include the costs of the 2 backshells). Plus they can take 18-22 awg - be handy to be able to run 18 gauge on the connector without using 2 pins. (7.5 amps is the only limitation on the connector).


WRT to amps, not really an issue, just run more than one wire to separate pins and voila! More amps. Heavier, yeah I suppose if youre really counting calories, but a bigger connector would also be heavier so choose your poison I guess. Anyway, heater for the pitot tube comes to mind for this, and I ran a two wire twisted pair for that anyway (and a gnd pair back). Everything else out in the wings and tail ought to be less.
 
Here is another vote for Deutsch connectors. I use them extensively, even under the cowl. On red cube fuel transducers, oil pressure sensors and the like. I use Deutsch connectors instead of the connectors supplied with the sensors and transducers and never have connection problems. I also use Deutsch DTM connectors on Garmin portable GPs bare wire cables so that any mounting panel can be readily removed. This also allows ease of upgrading interfacing RS232 components by re-pinning the connector vs. having to unsolder and resolder wires. And Deutsch connectors are environmentally sealed and don't corrode so are great for exterior use.

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I have never populated unused pin positions in any Dsub or Deutsch connectors. I leave them empty.

Jim
 
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Thanks for the great photos of the DTM?s in situ. I?ve order a few 6 and 12 and will see how they go. The ones with the boot look good in the engine. Anyone used their little plastic mounting bases to clip on the connector?
 
The boots are an option. Also, no fancy pin extractors are required to disassemble a Deutsch. Just a small flat blade screwdriver or awl is used to release the pins. You are going to like them. 😉
 
Thanks for the great photos of the DTM?s in situ. I?ve order a few 6 and 12 and will see how they go. The ones with the boot look good in the engine. Anyone used their little plastic mounting bases to clip on the connector?

Yes I have used those also firewall forward. My TANIS preheat system came with Deutsch DT Connectors and I had to find a way to secure them somewhere. Thus I used either little strips of alumium or adel-clamps and the mounting base to secure those connectors. I have also used them for fuel flow and oil pressure.

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I'm working on a 44 pin connector that only uses 3 pins. And I'm not even 100% certain one of those three is needed.
 
Are the pins with Deutsch connectors crimped with the same tool as for Dsub pins?

As far as I can tell, I think so. But I?ll let you know!

I have a 4 way crimper for 12-20AWG (ordered the wrong one!) as well as a dsub one (20-24AWG) so I figured one of these would work.
 
Are the pins with Deutsch connectors crimped with the same tool as for Dsub pins?

Like most things, that depends. Depends on the crimper you're using, mostly. I have the DMC "little blue" crimper, and there is a different positioner for Deutsch connectors than D-subs. Check the manual, available at DTM, for the correct positioner numbers.
 
Are the pins with Deutsch connectors crimped with the same tool as for Dsub pins?

There are two type of Deutsch pins. Solid machined barrel (quality aircraft style) that can be crimped with a 4-way crimper like SteinAir sells. The second type of connectors are the cheaper formed crimp type pins that crimp on the wire and insulation like Molex or other cheap connectors.

I save my Daniels DTM for avionics connectors and use industrial crimpers for the Deutsch, both solid and open pins/sockets.

There is an all-in-one Deutsch crimp connector kit on the Big A for $89 with free Prime shipping. Search it under "Tool Aid S&G 18650 Deutsch Terminal Service Kit". It's a nice set up.

Jim
 
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