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  #281  
Old 11-03-2015, 12:15 PM
f1rocket's Avatar
f1rocket f1rocket is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Martinsville, IN
Posts: 2,283
Default

Nice job Rob of showing all the parts and documenting the improvement. I like it. I think I'll add this to my list of improvements for my next annual.
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Randy Pflanzer
Martinsville, IN (II87)

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RV-12 - Completed 2014, Sold
427 Shelby Cobra - Completed 2012, Sold
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  #282  
Old 01-11-2016, 05:42 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Port Orange, Fl
Posts: 780
Default Adding an Aux tank

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetguy View Post
For all you guys who want more fuel the easiest and cheapest way is to add an aux tank after you are done building. ...
I like the idea but how do you fill the tank? If you remove it to fill, the caps and straps have to come off and an extra set of caps would be needed to keep fuel from spilling and refilling in place seems a guaranteed overflow into the baggaage area sooner or later ...
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Port Orange, Fl
RV-12 N121TK ELSA #120845; first flight 06/10/2015
RV-12 N918EN ELSA #120995 Eagles Nest Project
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  #283  
Old 01-11-2016, 07:57 PM
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Jetguy Jetguy is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Texas, Fort Worth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomkk View Post
I like the idea but how do you fill the tank? If you remove it to fill, the caps and straps have to come off and an extra set of caps would be needed to keep fuel from spilling and refilling in place seems a guaranteed overflow into the baggaage area sooner or later ...
Well you have to be methodical and have patience. Since you use quick disconnects for the vent and the pick up hoses when removing for fueling chances of spillage is reduced. If you remove it and fill it to the max then you will probably have some leakage around the fill cap. The tank will actually carry 7 gallons but it marked for 6 gallons. So if you only put in 6 gallons and lift it up by the handle on one end to the vertical then gently place it into position while exercising patience lower it back down to the horizontal in the baggage compartment then will probably not spill a drop. Remember you don't have to fill it all the way up, just adding 3 gallons means you can fly approx 4 hours before landing. 3 gallons weights 18lbs, pretty easy to maneuver the aux tank at that weight.
I have my own fuel setup in my hangar so for me filling the aux tank in the baggage compartment is not a problem, but even when using self serve 100LL with a little practice like making sure the nozzle is done dripping and then flip it inverted until over filler neck then rotate it into aux tank usually works fine. Again you only use it when you need it not every time you fly.
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RV12 N1212K
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RV14 Wing, arrived and building at Rdog's new Hanger at 16X
S/N 140014
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  #284  
Old 02-05-2016, 05:48 AM
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Bill_H Bill_H is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Peel, AR
Posts: 1,760
Default RV12 Tail Tie-down Compression Strut

RV12 tail tie-down compression strut here: http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...d.php?t=134079
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  #285  
Old 02-14-2016, 01:23 PM
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Bill_H Bill_H is offline
 
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Location: Peel, AR
Posts: 1,760
Default

Oil Cooler Shutter modification.
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...d.php?t=134583
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  #286  
Old 02-19-2016, 08:33 AM
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engineerofsorts engineerofsorts is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 298
Default UHMW tape on nosegear leg fairing

I could post a picture, but it wouldn't show anything...

The faired or un-faired nosegear leg is subject to scraping when removing the lower cowling.

Van's sells transparent TAPE UHMW 3"X10', which I applied to the top side of my painted nose gear fairing...made it slicker than greased snot on a Teflon doorknob, and I no longer worry about scratching up the paint on either the fairing or the cowling.
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RV-12 #120332 N73HR
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  #287  
Old 02-19-2016, 08:52 AM
JBPILOT JBPILOT is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Jesup, Iowa
Posts: 1,598
Default Same concern - -

I have found that a piece of black electrical tape on each side, lightly attached so it comes off easy, works great.
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John Bender
Flying RV-12 - Serial #120036
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  #288  
Old 03-11-2016, 07:27 AM
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Piper J3 Piper J3 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Hinckley, Ohio
Posts: 1,055
Default Control Stick Pivot Bushings

Made new bushings for control sticks. Fore/aft motion between the two sticks was about . Really noticeable when you moved sticks slightly when trimmed in level flight. This was bothering me for a long time. I bought 0.245 x 0.375 brass tubing from McMaster-Carr. Used knurling tool on a lathe to raise the outside diameter. Finished dimensions are now 0.379 OD x 2.030 L which makes a nice slip fit into the control stick. I was going to ream the ID but strangely enough it fit the thru bolt as supplied. Now the pivot point is smooth and there is no relative motion between the control sticks. Added benefit is the slight knurled surface holds grease for lubrication for the pivot.

Love this airplane....

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Jim Stricker
Hinckley, Ohio
EAA #499867
PPL/ASEL 1970 - Sport Pilot since 2004
80 hrs Flying Aeronca Chief 11AC
1130 hrs Flying 46 Piper J-3 Cub
RV-12 E-LSA #120058 AWC Jul 2012 - Bought Flying Oct 2015 with 48TT - Hobbs now 400

LSRM-A Certificate 2016
Special Thanks to EJ Trucks

Last edited by Piper J3 : 03-11-2016 at 07:33 AM.
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  #289  
Old 09-22-2016, 02:13 PM
AirHound AirHound is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: OFallon IL now, everywhere before
Posts: 219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mich48041 View Post
This radiator baffle is quickly and easily attached or removed by pushing the hinge pins down and out of the hooks.
Blocking the air flow through the upper portion of the radiator keeps the coolant hotter and cabin heat warmer.


I used similar hooks to prevent the bottom cowl hinge pins from coming out.
Nice, is the piece 100% fabricated or an available part?
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  #290  
Old 09-22-2016, 02:25 PM
AirHound AirHound is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: OFallon IL now, everywhere before
Posts: 219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill_H View Post
This mod makes it possible to remove the center instrument panel section without removing then reinstalling the three control cables to the engine. You may or may not anticipate ever modifying that center panel.

Some of us Skyview types have both the original center section (with the GPS cutout) and the new one without it. This mod shows:
a> Make SLOTS extending downward from the engine control cable holes in the new (final) panel piece. The slots cut all the way to the bottom of the panel piece.
b> Cut off the bottom of the OLD center panel piece. It will serve as a backer plate to block those slots.
c> Cut that backer plate so the control cables can be installed flat on the primary panel piece WITH their backing washer, at the top of the slot. Then, the backer plate should be cut to hit that washer and prevent any downward movement of the cable.
d> 2 nutplates, two screws to secure the backer plate.

With great care in the cutting of the slots (dremel and thin cutting disk, thin hacksaw blade), it could be possible to do this by loosening but not removing the cables on an existing installed center panel section.



This second picture is showing the back side of the backer piece with nutplates attached.



Assembled. The "hole" looks big because it accomodates the backing washer. But the cable is at the top of the slot in the exact same position as before the hole was slotted.

Good-day!

Regarding post#163 by Bill H, page 17 of 29.

I have the panel with the GPS cutout (left pic). However, the hole pattern above the throttle is like the one on the right (right pic) with two rows. Is it practical, without removing the panel, to just mark and cut (carefully) across and between those two horizontal rows of holes and achieve the same results? Would the single horizontal row of screws fixing the now lower control panel be strong enough to allow operation of the controls with out the lower panel flexing/bending?
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